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Is there something wrong with MYLR?

Hi,

We have a new MYLR and I really need to know if ours is faulty, or if autopilot is just this bad generally.

Examples:
Normal dumb cruise control - random roads it just won't work on, it knows the speed limit but won't do it. There are multiple roads where it does this.
Submitted a bug report about the above issue and then the bluetooth wouldn't work again until the entire screen/computer was soft reset
Advanced autopilot (autosteer) is nowhere near the centre of the lane, but only on left hand bends - it is extremely close to the dividing lane, meaning that if there are oncoming vehicles also close the divider, it's pretty worrying, especially with trucks.
Lane departure absolutely does not alert you about drifting into oncoming traffic, it ONLY works if you are leaving the road on the left.
Cruise control will often throw us into a roundabout far too fast, then slow to a crawl when exiting.
The windscreen wipers can't be turned off when using cruise control (which I understand is due to the cameras at top of windscreen) but they are simply erratic, sometimes in rain you can't see through they'll not come on, other times they'll be having an absolute fit when it isn't raining at all, or when it's extremely light, essentially just misting.

We paid the extra $5k for the advanced autopilot and I won't even use it, it's far too disconcerting to use.

The car is otherwise fantastic but we really bought it for the smarts, and I think ours has been lobotomized.

Thanks
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Referral delen voor performance boost

Ik sta op het punt om over te stappen van een model 3 naar een model Y.

Ik wil graag vergelijkbaar vermogen als de model 3. De performance is mij te duur. Nu zie ik dat je de long range kunt upgraden met performance boost. Deze is te krijgen voor €2000,- of wanneer slechts 1 persoon je referral code gebruikt.

Zijn er hier wellicht nog anderen die op het punt staan een model Y long range te bestellen? Ik ben bereid om dan beide bestellingen via een referral code te laten lopen zodat beide auto’s zonder kosten deze upgrade krijgen :)

Highland Efficiency

Took the car (RWD) out for its first proper drive yesterday for a trip to Center Parcs.

Managed 204 wh/mi. This was driving normally, 2 adults + 2 kids and both boots full. Climate set to 20c. Outside temp 10c. No preconditioning.

This is my first EV but from my research this seems pretty impressive?

What is everyone else seeing?

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Car not charging

i got home from a road trip at 10 percent, and my car refuses to charge. I just have it trickle charging and have 3 different mobile chargers. I tried them all and none will pull any amps into the vehicle. It goes to 1/12 max but stays at 0. Volts jump from 131v to 132v. Vehicle has 110k miles on it. Ive attached a photo of the screen in service mode. Closest service center is 150 miles away so will have to tow- just curious if anyone has had this issue?

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How Does Tesla Operate?

I am contemplating selling my present three year old MG ZS EV (privately - I do not need a trade in) and buying a new for 2024 Telsa Model 3. I want the extended range AWD model.

Can anyone explain to me how Tesla operates, as it does not appear to be like what we are accustomed to in the UK, from other car manufacturers?

Normally, the maufacturer of a new vehicle and the dealership where you view, test drive and ultimately buy it are two separate companies. This does not seem to be the case with Tesla. There appear to be locations all over the UK where Teslas can been seen and test drives offered but it seems that you are not able to communicate directly with them. There is only one landline telephone number for the whole of the UK - an 01628 number, which is the dialling code for Maidenhead but I have been unable to find a Tesla location (i.e. an address) in the Maidenhead area. Does Tesla itself run all these "phantom" dealerships directly from a secret headquarters somewhere in Berkshire?

On Wednesday (the 31st of January), I had a test drive booked at my local Tesla "dealership". This had been arranged by multiple text messages over the previous days. The text messages from Tesla always came from the same mobile phone number but there was never an employee's name on any of them. I had made it plain that, as I wanted to buy the extended range AWD model, that was the car that I wanted to test drive. The text messages from me show this clearly and the responses from Tesla assured me that a new for 2024, extended range AWD model would indeed be available for me to test drive on Wednesday the 31st.

When I arrived at the "dealership" the receptionist informed me that they did not have a new for 2024, extended range AWD model but that I could test drive a new for 2024, standard RWD model. I obviously declined this, as this is not a car that I am the slightest bit interested in. I was annoyed that I had travelled more than 40 miles (round trip) and the whole thing had been a waste of my time and money. Obviously I was not blaming the receptionist here but she could not take the matter further in any way. I asked to see someone, on the premises, senior to her, who dealt with test drives etc. but she could not produce anyone to speak to me. Neither could she tell me who had sent the text messages, or even if the same person had been responsible for all of the messages. She did however assure me that she would arrange for "someone" to contact me concerning the matter. However, no one has - so far.

Is this the standard of customer service that one can expect from Tesla? The whole organisation seems to be shrouded in mystery and secrecy, with no named local "salesman" involved.

Another Tesla Y owner opened mine with his phone

Please, serious replies only. Thanks;)

Strangest thing. I was at a restaurant with some friends, of whom one person owns an identical black 2023 Y standard model like myself. He had to leave early while the rest of us were still there. I get a phone call from this friend who said " Guess what? So bizarre! I'm inside your car right now. I got in thinking it was mine then I saw your name on the screen." My car was clearly locked. So the next time I saw him, I tried opening his car with my phone and sure enough, I was able to! He stood far in distance to make sure that it wasn't his phone that activated the unlock. Although I wasn't able to start the car, it's alarming knowing someone can enter my car and steal belongings or tamper with it.

Any idea how this can happen and how to fix it?

Why do they call an OTA update a recall? (24V051000)

The newest OTA update is to fix the font of a dash light, a goddamned ****ing font and it's being called a recall‽

Is it a recall when my Pixel 6 got an OTA update to fix a security patch? No!

I just don't get why these ass clowns insist on calling everything a damn recall. A recall is when you have to take the car into the shop for a defect like we all did for the airbags.

January 30, 2024 NHTSA Campaign Number: 24V051000 Incorrect Font Size on Warning Lights/FMVSS 105 Warning lights with a smaller font size can make critical safety information on the instrument panel difficult to read, increasing the risk of a crash. NHTSA Campaign Number: 24V051000 Manufacturer Tesla, Inc. Components ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Potential Number of Units Affected 2,193,869 Summary Tesla, Inc. (Tesla) is recalling certain 2012-2023 Model S, 2016-2024 Model X, 2017-2023 Model 3, 2019-2024 Model Y, and 2024 Cybertruck vehicles. An incorrect font size is displayed on the instrument panel for the Brake, Park, and Antilock Brake System (ABS) warning lights. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 105, "Hydraulic and Electric Brake Systems" and 135, "Light Vehicle Brake Systems." Remedy Tesla began releasing an over-the-air (OTA) software update, free of charge. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed March 30, 2024. Owners may contact Tesla customer service at 1-877-798-3752. Tesla's number for this recall is SB-24-00-003.
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Creak Creak!

Hi all

Terrible creaking noise coming from the rear of my MYLR22.

I’ve taken everything out including the shelf and climbed in the back whilst car moving to determine where the noise is coming from. Sounds to me like it’s coming from in and around the hatch itself., more towards the black trim part. Surely it’s not the trim making all that noise, sounds like a bad of spanner’s?

Anyone having similar issues at all? Obviously if music is on you can’t hear anything but it surely shouldn’t make that much clatter for a 60k car?

Thanks.

Tesla Quirks

I have been driving a new Tesla Model X for the past 6 months. Some quirks I have with the car include:

1. For a car with a quick acceleration, I find the acceleration on Autopilot to be very slow. If the car is on Autopilot and it had to slow down or stop, the rate of acceleration is super slow.

2. If on Autosteer and you do a lane change, I really do not understand why autosteer does not re-engage automatically once the lane change is complete. Most other car brands may not do the lane change for you, but re-engages autosteer once the lane change is complete.

3. What is the purpose of Enhanced Autopilot? Does anyone actually subscribe or purchase this feature? For the price of $6,000, it does not seem like you are getting a lot of useful additions as compared to the standard autopilot.

4. I have 2 garage doors connected via HomeLink. For some reason, the Tesla app only connects to my secondary garage door, not the primary. And there is no way of selecting which garage door should open through the app. Kindda Stupid.

Loud pop/noise when starting to drive

I have a 22 Model S Plaid and sometimes when I go to drive first thing in the am, a super loud pop (like a rock hitting your windshield) occurs when I press on the accelerator (almost like the parking brake is breaking free or getting stuck). Of course Tesla is saying that's normal but I'm sure it can't be. Anyone else or any ideas? You can see video below too for reference. Thanks

Proactively replacing RDU/LDU

I've decided to proactively have my RDU/LDU replaced on my 2012 P85 with Tesla's newest "U" seal delete manifold version. Having it done by the Portland Tesla Service Center, so no state sales tax.

No major issues with my current RDU?LDU - no alerts. Spaceship sound upon acceleration. Little coolant leak detected in speed sensor and coolant on end of finger after placing in speed sensor hole opening.
422580649_10231545036504890_4361064350527415768_n.jpg422570021_10231545036864899_8498714795814248304_n.jpg422586540_10231545037264909_7400517306544771774_n.jpg
First two pics are from my old RDU, second two pics are regarding the new RDU.422667782_10231545037464914_5095585864880706757_n.jpg
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Tesla Repurchase

Hello,

Tesla bought back my Model Y back after 17 service appointments in the first two years. Mostly QC issues, however, the final straw was the HV battery shorting out and requiring entire replacement.

After one week of negotiating repurchase price and then an additional two weeks waiting for Tesla to get the paperwork together, I surrendered the vehicle seven days ago and have all of the signed documents, DMV paperwork, etc. My question is - none of these state any timeline requirements for paying off the remainder of the loan and cutting me a check for the remaining repurchase price - just that they will. How long can I expect this to take and if they fail to do this in said reasonable amount of time, who is now my point of contact? I was dealing with the Service Manager, but now this is in the hands of a Team above them. Note - the vehicle was not financed through Tesla.

Appreciate any insight from those who have been through this painfully slow process.

Thank you!

'24 Wall Connector, NACS

My questions are in the attached picture.

-Is there something wrong with changing the 80A breaker to the subpanel, to 100A or 125A, even though it is down stream of the 100A main breaker for the main panel so would never trip? The wire can handle it. Point being that with 80A breaker going to subpanel, I can only 80A*80%=64A. I am concerned that 64A minus 48A leaves not enough for dish washer, washer/drier, etc.

-Shouldn't the 40A breaker pop when running at 48A for 30 min? Why didn't it? What is going on? Tesla app confirmed car was receiving 48A and about 232V.

Thanks in advance!

Background: the electrician, instead of running a dedicated line from the meter to the garage since they are at opposite diagonal ends of the home, swapped the wiring from main panel to sub panel, with 2 AWG, so we could reuse the conduit there. And ran new wire and conduit only from subpanel in the garage, to the other end of the garage, so save money for me. This all sounds logical to me, but what doesn't make sense are the breaker values. I feel like they are way too conservative and waste ampacity of the wires installed. I think the 80A breaker going to the subpanel could pop unnecessarily, though my understanding is there is no safety concern since the wires are all large enough to not get hot.

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Intelligent Octopus - Is This Normal?

Hi all


Long time Octopus Go user and now turned to IO.

Is it normal that when you plug in the car at the end of the day, the car starts taking a charge? I’ve just spoke to Octopus and they’ve said totally normal for the car to charge up to HALF AN HOUR whilst a handshake is made with their servers. Also, this bleed charge as they call it, is charged at PEAK RATE!

Everyone else getting this on IO?

Thanks.

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