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Not true, Howard; since "Snowmageddon" of 2008, Seattle and surrounding Puget Sound began applying "salt" to the roads, when previous to that they never did. I grew up here, I know. And I resent that we now apply corrosives to the roads here, and that it all ends up in the bay. You may not...

What Howard said. For more info, see Johan's excellent video @ 105:

The cable glands leak rainwater into the inverter, it's a common issue. Be sure to test the HV Iso on those cable, use 500v and you can test from the inverter end (ie at the cables as shown above) or at the Rear HVJB under the rear seat, with the cables connected or disconnected from the LDU...

On the MS/X, the contactors are closer to the rear; on the RAV4 EV, they're in the front in the battery pack, and as a driver you're basically sitting on top of them, so the noise is pretty clear. In my case, I'm not certain that my noise was the contactors, but I haven't heard it again after...

I have the LDU rotor temp monitor working after a fashion. In my driveway, car sat overnight: I went on a 30 mile drive, about half of which was hilly and on cruise control @ 57 MPH (~95 kph): The highest I saw was 182°F, doing a few full-accel sprints of 20-45 MPH around town. This is...

I mentioned this to another owner a couple of weeks ago.

Not to confuse, but there is another source of accel-only noise, that is not a bearing: it's "Contactor Squeal", on the early vehicles. See Tesla Note TN-13-16-002 R1. I had this for a few months, after the HV battery was replaced under warranty. It went away. It was variable "pitch" for me...

Sure, we can assume that, but it makes no never-mind to us: Tesla doesn't sell parts, doesn't share info, has no PR department, fired (then later rehired some of) their SuperCharger development team . . . what Tesla has or does with that knowledge is irrelevant to we customers; we'll never see...

Agreed, and that's what I said three weeks ago. But, we don't have that pre-mod baseline info. Somebody will have to make the sacrifice and get it. I'm not going to reverse my coolant delete to obtain it; neither are you, so the numbers I obtain will be data without a baseline reference. It's...

I could place a probe on the end of a rod that protrudes into the center of the hollow rotor shaft -- in place of the tapered alum. tube I'd cut off. Maybe 6" long, so it's centered along the axis. But it would be a lot more work than where I placed the IR sensor, and honestly I think that the...

If you've got an idea on how to better measure LDU rotor temperature, I'm all ears.

Google says plain-ish steel blues in the high 500s°F (~300°C). The MLX90614 IR sensor I've installed can read up to 380°C (720°F), and I sure hope that the rotor isn't going to get much hotter than that. But I wouldn't bet $100 on that.

I'm installing a LDU rotor temperature monitor (wiring connectors on order, raining today, etc. delays), but I'll only be getting "after" data (after "coolant delete"), not "before". Pictures here show a blued rotor on an LDU having had "coolant delete" applied, implying significant...

I don't have the breadth of experience with many LDU stators to give good advice on what is "good" HV isolation resistance. I'm seeing numbers quoted from 4Mohm to 120Mohm, which is quite a large range. I think that some numbers are coming from repair facilities that have a strong incentive to...

If you can get the subframe out from under the MS/X -- floor jacks and 4x4s -- have or can build a suitable workbench for the 300 lb. unit, and can buy/borrow a std. engine "cherry picker" (or do as I did, and use a come-along to a garage joist above), it isn't terrible. Yeah, I bought an...

Mine (with low iso) had a spotless seal surface on the rotor shaft, but low enough iso to cause the BMS to open the contactors once, and a bunch of muck/rust on the stator's exposed laminations. Best Practice is If coolant is showing on the speed sensor, it should be disassembled; at least the...

Well, that is what the permit application says . . .

Well, the stators do short.

More: So, if a DIY-er with a low-iso stator issue wants to, they can ship the stator half of the LDU to Arizona for possible repair.

You don't have to split the gearcase to pull the inverter stack, or the rotor. It's only when you really need to get to gearbox bearings, or you have a rotor that has to be pressed out from the pinion gear side, that you have to open the gearcase. Exception: if you're going to have your stator...

The High Voltage Interlock Loop (HVIL) is designed to make certain that all HV wire harness connectors are properly installed, prior to the HV contactors closing. It does not measure HV isolation. The HVIL has many 60 ohm resistors in series; if the loop resistance doesn't add up to the...

A ReVolt representative has said: It seems that some of the wet stators may be revived.

On mine, all six M6 holes had excess RTV in the bottoms. I re-ran all the holes with an M6 tap, so I could use the entire holes' depth. I needed full-depth holes on the upper four for the puller bolts to remove the end cap without beating or prying on things. [This forum's software is...

While there are Model S/X owners who are enthusiasts and hang out in forums such as this, 99% of MS/X owners are going to find out about the rotor seal leaking via a driveability issue (noise or Alert or non-op), in which case it's too late to just stop the leak. The majority of cars that...

The flyover tube has a restraining clamp, an inch back from the rotor end cap. Removing its fixing bolt first make removing the coolant manifold much easier, as you don't have to bend the tube as hard, and I wish that I had known that before I removed my coolant manifold (in the car, in my...

[shrug] I wouldn't be worried about it. It'll shred and shed bits of itself, but to no bad end. It's not going to catch fire or emit toxic or corrosive fumes.

Strongly disagree here. There's almost no chance of "just this little bit of coolant won't hurt anything" on this design. We've seen enough of a sample size to have the data on that. That doesn't mean people aren't going to decide differently, esp. just to move the car on to the next buyer...

And, what keeps it in place? Staking? I would not trust an o-ring's friction to have the plug "just stay there"; that's one of three reasons I discarded that idea early on. I think using an o-ring on the 55mm OD is bad design here. What does it save? Adding Loctite? Phffft. If you're using...

For a Model S/X that has no current coolant leak and no issues, this is a very attractive fix to a future problem, because of the huge labor savings, over dropping the entire rear subframe and extracting the LDU, to access the coolant manifold. For an LDU that has already experienced coolant...

The inverter IGBTs' outputs can more than handle 500v, NP. I disconnected mine when I had my LDU on the bench two weeks ago, because I did want to eliminate the variable of the IGBTs in measuring my stator's isolation resistance, but in practice the readings connected/disconnected were nearly...

IDK about in the Model S, but the LDU in the RAV4 EV has access to the three HV stator bolts without dropping the LDU. IOW, the orange plastic cap can be removed and an insulation resistance tester (applies 500V to the stator windings; this is not a function of a standard DMM -- I have a Fluke...

Some notes & pics on my journey: LDU rotor cooling bypass ("Coolant Delete") modification LDU special disassembly tools LDU rotor temperature monitor (display)

What would be a bonus, is if we could get a baseline rotor temp (using the same or similar setup) before modding for coolant delete.

I had the second plug made at .005" over. I mounted it using Loctite 640, let it cure 10 hours, and it held 29.5 PSI for two hours. Then I installed it. Yesterday. I hope to be driving it later this week. I'm installing a Rotor Temperature Monitor using a MLX90614 IR temp sensor, and...

I get the sense that you haven't read this thread from the beginning. The coolant leak path is well known: it's the PTFE seal, leaking into the dry side of the coolant manifold, into the reluctor wheel cavity, where the speed sensor is. Through the outer rotor bearing into the stator cavity...

It sure looks as if the REV U units maintain that flow: Here's where that top tube feeds: Flow is from the top, to that hose barb on the bottom left. And, here's what's under that aluminum sheet cover (ignore the shoelaces and inverter): IDK whether they're trying to remove gearbox...

Yes, Revolt's manifold, unlike QC Charge's, does not circulate coolant to the heat transfer section of the gear case. Opinions vary as to whether that gearcase heat transfer section is a critical part of the cooling design.

I didn't find the exact force required to remove the plug, but it popped out promptly using 100 PSI.

@jatguy used ~.0075" (.19mm) and hasn't (yet) suffered casting failure ;) It was considered early on. Problems: An o-ring is a part that has to be able to be serviced. You have to retain the plug in the bore via external means. Staking? Has to be un-staked to service. Do we drill/tap...

I installed the plug yesterday. Press force was ~150 lbs (~68kgs) for half-fit, and over 250 lbs (~113 kgs) for final fit. .003" and a dry fit, leaks badly at 20 PSI leak test. Now, 20 PSI is at least five times what this plug should ever see, but that's not good enough. This was a dry fit...

I dropped off my 6061 roundbar and the manifold and a drawing and a rendering of the plug I wanted made, to my machinist on Tuesday; it's ready for pickup tomorrow morning (yea!). He & I agreed that .003" (~.08mm) interference ought to be plenty on a part this size, and that's what I had him...

As I'm doing this today myself, I will note that if you have a RAV4 EV with the LDU, and your LDU has NO SYMPTOMS or issues, the coolant manifold appears to be able to be R&R'd without removing the LDU from the vehicle, via the right fenderwell. [The LDU is installed "backwards" in the RAV4 EV...

In the Model S, the LDU coolant manifold is right up against the subframe and cannot be replaced without removing the LDU from the subframe. Additionally, if your LDU has any symptoms (noise, fault codes, driving issues, or coolant on the speed sensor) it has to come apart anyway, and I mean...

Anecdotally, the early MS A/C compressors would overcurrent and cause that fuse to fail; dealerships were replacing the DC-DC first, then months later replacing the DC-DC and the A/C compressor, when the fuse failed again. If the A/C fuse fails again, you may be in for replacing the A/C...

See DC - DC converter / AC compressor repair

Yeah, the Chenming seal's OD is especially oversize, we've noticed (deform to fit). A solid-ish slug of 6061 isn't going to have nearly the compliance of that stamped steel seal cage.

Yeah, that's a datum I'm looking for as well. 0.2mm interference (~0.008") seems like an awful lot. In our design exercise, I used .0025" (~.06mm) as the interference fit. But this particular metals engineering is something I don't do; I've merely watched engineers I've worked with spec this...

The V2 SCs may need an add'l bit of comm hardware to put CCSx comms on the existing CP line. But that's just speculation.

I see two things while nearing the end of Jan2024: 1) The web page that describes this product continues to mis-label Dexron as "Dextron"; 2) There is now a one-star review of the product (obviously, not of the product) from a frustrated potential customer who cannot obtain any communication...