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If you still have the old struts you can check if those had loose top nuts. Easier than pulling new ones out. Does noise go away or reduce if you drive on higher suspension setting?

Only if you plan to tighten the top nut. For replacing the whole strut it is not necessary but makes getting the strut out of the car easier. You need to empty only that side you are working on. If possible lift the car at low or lowest suspension height setting. Jack mode on so air suspension...

My bet is that top nut of the strut is loose. I had similar rattle and it was worst at lowest suspension setting. Later I had similar rattle sounds but it did not change with different ride height settings; that time it was the strut itself being worn and did not dampen hits anymore (it had let...

I got the spare parking brake box and it didn't work any better after software update. Then I realized I had forgotten to measure those two wires going to motor. Took the connector off the motor and measured both wires all the way to the electronic box. Another wire was fine and other had...

Oh, forgot to mention that in my previous post. If I remember right official way of doing is was by dropping battery. Maybe it also explains bigger quote.

Hello, My Model X gave me some headscratching few weekends ago. Entered the car and got notified immediately about parking brake not releasing or being applied. I tried to switch between P and D many times and could hear only rear left side engaging. Right side was completely quiet. Car would...

Getting heater core out is like 30min job. Rest will be cursing in the frunk trying to reach fuse box or lifting the car up and trying to access it from below. Just disconnect hv-loop and 12V first and start disassembling everything.

Thank you for sharing. I lost some hair with this as well as the rattle appeared on both front struts. Tesla would only replace the whole strut with hefty pricetag. The plastic top cap lifted off easily, no tools were needed. It is sealing and nice fit so maybe yours was just dirty? Be prepared...

Maybe it is leaking slowly. Mine was leaking from o-ring seal inside the strut. Took the strut off the car, lifted the lower part up to expose the seal and applied pipe thread tape, or whatever it is called, to o-ring groove and reassembled the strut. No more leaking. It is also easy to test for...

I got the same issue with parking brake. MX 2017. Mine might be similar to tommytunas as there is only one brake caliper at the rear. Motor side has star-shaped nut that does not turn by hand/tools and car side has the opposite end. You can release parking brake by stuffing in 7mm flathead...

Did you replace the fuse located in front HV junction box? The box itself is not dc-dc converter. There are two similar fuses inside the box. Broken fuse should measure as open-circuit, infinite ohms.

I had similar problems with passenger side falcon wing door. First it was small rattle at power struts and then error messages like there would be some obstacle. It would work randomly but mostly I had to force it to open/close. I replaced both main power struts and problem disappeared right...

Got it done today. Getting strut out and back to the car is starting to get easy, hehe. Previously put threadlock was nowhere to be found and nut was loose as suspected. This time put way more of threadlock (bigger the blob, the better the job). Original nut has fine threads and no regular nut...

On mine the right falcon wing door opened randomly on its own even if doors were locked. It could close, open up halfway and then close again. I took 12V battery leads off and same for HV loop and let it be like that overnight. Some body controller module got reset and its been fine since. This...

Hello. Good to see fellow Finnish people here. I have read a used part with different logic board might not work right away. Maybe full software reinstall gets new part working? This is something to research before the original heater gives up.

Now about 1000km later after writing that post the rattle is back at front left corner. It goes away when lowering suspension to lowest or rising to standard. It could be something else but I strongly suspect it is the same nut loose again. I think I will try to replace it with some locking nut...

This is interesting. I am having intermittent charging problems like EVSE not recognizing car or car telling me CP signal is not present. Charging always starts but it might take 0-45 minutes for car to get that CP signal. After that it charges just fine. This is a bit off-topic but maybe once...

The actual PTC element is just a passive component. It is like multiple big resistors in one package. One of those "resistors" traces is broken inside the element in my case. You (or your electrician) can measure it with multimeter and see which one has too much resistance. I think if the logic...

Time-wise not too long ago, but mine is still good after about 20 000kms. Did both sides at the same time. No air suspension leaks or rattles.

I replaced mine few weeks ago. Needed to reinstall software from service mode, no toolbox needed.

You have to remove the strut. If the top cap was fully visible it could be done when strut is on the car. It is hidden underneath the sheet metal. Luckily it is relatively quick job to remove the strut. It is just 21mm bolt&nut holding the strut bottom to the lower control arm and 3x 13mm nuts...

This was the exact issue on my MX2017. On both sides at front the top nut was loose. Loosened it all the way, put some loctite to threads and tightened it back on. All rattling noise gone. Thank you for pointing this out. Here is similar video showing the rattle. It was really obvious when the...

I took charge port door off today for cleaning and re-aligning. It would always scrub against panels and leave open on most occacions. Had to push it fully closed manually. Too bad I saw this thread after I put the whole thing back together, otherwise would have gotten pictures about the...

Does knocking get less frequent if you raise suspension? I'm dealing with similar issue. I was about to take the sway bar off but haven't gotten there yet. I noticed that knocking is there if driving on low/very low -setting but if it is on standard/high/very high I have to hit way bigger bumps...

I used the old cable. It would have been possible to replace the cable using that string method though. Otherwise it requires long arms.

This seemed impossible for me so no, I didn't unplug cables. Main hv inputs could have been removed, they are on with big torx bit, likely T30 or even T40. It might help with lid bolts. Most of cables were so nicely stuffed against firewall covering that they wouldn't move at all. I still wonder...

Yes, it was easier to remove lid only. Lid is on with bolts, 8mm wrench or socket. All the other parts require 10mm and 13mm tools. Windshield wipers were 17mm. Plastic trim removing tool is useful too as wiring harnesses are held on with plastic clips. Same for the tray that is under windshield...

I'd say it is as hard from the bottom as from the top. I did it from the top today. Hardest part is getting the actual box off the firewall or even the cover off if you were to leave the box in place. Replacing the cover is as hard as getting it off. Everything else is pretty straightforward but...

Original IGBT is AUIRG4PH50S. It seems obsolete. I replaced mine with IKW40T120. Bought them from Mouser.com for about 9€ each. Used only 5 as I left broken element unconnected. Gate diodes were fine and I'd think the driver circuit still works. I still need to do more testing on this repair...

No, sorry about that. There are two similar sized fuses inside the box and its the leftmost one. Easily identified with multimeter too.

Heater element desoldered from PCB. It was major pain with cheapo 100W soldering iron and solder sucker. 😆 This is not needed if you are about to replace IGBT modules. I just wanted to see how its all connected. About 1000 to 1500 ohms between elements at +21C. Broken element had 33kohm...

Heater element removed from its hiding place. Plastic cover also removed. Six IGBTs controlling 9 heater connections. Big terminal posts for high voltage positive and negative. One IGBT has external thermal sensor on top of it. Second IGBT from the left was shorted (drain-to-source). Closeup...

I think its the CAN port. If you unplug it the car will tell you there is no heater available. Mobile app won't let you enable blower or even seat heaters. I'd say leave it plugged in even if your heater element is not working.

Hello, I have 2017 Model X. About a week ago I smelled burning electronics inside the cabin and almost immediately after that heard a fuse pop. Then it was only cool air coming out of the vents. I knew it was the heater. I took the PTC heater off and took it apart. There are 6 IGBT-modules...

Yes, it is possible. Be careful, there might be high voltage under the plastic cover. Plastic cover can be removed without tools or at least with minimal tools, maybe a knife or similar blade. There are 4 plastic clips holding the top cover on. Under the cover you'll see two orange wires going...

Cannot edit the previous post yet. I re-programmed all the Cub-sensors with oldest possible program found in the tool. I checked that sensor IDs matched the original sensors. I had originals lying on the table so it was easy to check, IDs are written/printed on the sensors. Re-programming...

I have a Model S 12/2013 which originally had Baolong system. It still has and I managed to get it working today. I borrowed Cub SensorAid tool from the guy who sold the sensors to local tire shop. I was prepared to gp through different sensor positions but first try made it right.

Could it be there is a difference between left and right sensors like on some other brand's cars? I know my TPMS worked fine after one set of tires were swapped from front to back. I might have to try and rent that CUB SensorAid tool to go through different combinations, if that makes any sense...

Yes, exactly that. There was another program for 2014-> models which we didn't try. Program for 2013 model didn't work for some reason.

Do you happen to know which "program" was written to sensors? I had a local tire shop install CUB sensors and do the ID cloning but sensor signals are not picked up by the car. We have tried two different sensor programs, have generated new IDs and copied old ones to new sensors but it doesn't...