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These are the ones I was playing with. Mine is a Model S 90D manufactured in 11/16, also with HW3 and MCU2, although that's irrelevant: When I replaced these, it was HW2 and MCU1. This one belongs (if I remember well) to the front fender. The sensors on the front, fender and the ones between...

I have! I need to run some errands now, but I'll get back to you. I don't remember it being especially difficult. The P/Ns are a bit confusing because there are so many, and sometimes the only difference is the manufacturing place or the color of the sensor, but essentially there are two or...

Man, you are my hero. You send me a paypal link and I’ll buy you the promised beer.

I’ll pay you a beer if you do this test for me. 😂

Hey! Did you ever try V3 SC? So far so good with V2, but it's true they are disappearing...

Sorry for the late reply. You need to reprogram the body controller. This is done with toolbox. Essentially there is an option in toolbox that says "program body controller", or something like that. In order for that to be effective, the configuration of the car must be correct, i.e., euvehicle...

Assuming you got a terminal, the gateway might be locked. Also, I think they changed the way gwxfer worked at some point in 2020, you might only be able to change a key at a time, but I'm not sure.

That’s the one you need. I also installed that in my US Tesla, and works like charm. The P/N of the whole kit I think is 1487929-00-B, but of course the adapter that comes with the kit is useless for you.

I would naively think that you need higher credentials than the ones you are given with a standard subscription, i.e., id yourself as an engineer at least. There are different kinds of access levels.

That’s not strictly true. They don’t touch the HV parts. The MCU is not HV, but the A/C unit (for instance) is. Of course, that’s the official policy. Every SC then does what it feels like. I personally got a quote for MCU1–>MCU2 for my salvaged Tesla in the SLC SC.

@LayZ is your man, but don’t expect him to reveal his secrets. I can tell you he’s fair and reliable.

Can you CCS in a non-Tesla charger?

That’s outrageous and makes no sense whatsoever.

I found this, rummaging through my old files, but this is for a Model 3 w/o heat pump. I’ll see if I can send you the whole thing.

Well, I meant the wiring digrams, I’m not sure if they are available for download.

Can’t you get any of that from the service webpage? Most likely not, but it’s worth a shot.

I guess you’ll need to go through the pages and try to map all the pins. And some pins might be unused, which makes the whole job a bit frustrating, because you don’t know if you got them all…

That sounds like the kind of thing you would find in the wiring diagrams. Aren’t they available in the service webpage?

Regarding the THC, I tried two thousand power cycles, and I calibrated at some point afterwards, and it never fixed anything. But yeah, if someone tries, let me know. I guess that if you pull out the 12V and the HV loop, you power cycle everything (DAS and THC), so you don’t have to check...

I had to do a similar repair to my 2017 Model S. I hope my experience can help. Regarding the shutter, yes, they exchange left and right, and it’s terribly confusing. But I got that error for years and it never bothered me. Now, if someone can solve the mystery of what the hell is going on (the...

Sorry man. Why can’t you download the right battery tool from Tesla with a subscription? Didn’t your battery discharge a little during this time? (Unlikely with open contactors…)

Lucky you!

If I remember well, you have one of the newest eMMCs (64 GB). Maybe it failed, but it’s quite unlikely. If you have the 8GB though, then for sure it’s that. I believe @LuckyLuke is in the Netherlands, he might be able to help you. He knows a hell of a lot about this.

Ok, you need two things now: - A new tegra board. Tesla won’t sell you one. You might look in ebay for one, or maybe in this forum. I have one, but I’m in the EU. - A data/recovering guy to get your carkeys out of the broken tegra board. There are people in this forum that do that. Worst...

Ok, I’m a bit lost of what we wanted to achieve. Can we recap a bit? You were trying to fix the display, but it seems that the display is ok and that the tegra board is fried, correct? Where did you get the other tegra board from? What about your certificates?

That tegra board works, right?

Put the tegra board you want to keep in the MCU that works with the display and check. You’ll get a bunch of errors, because a lot of ECUs are missing. Look for a fw mismatch between gw (which is in the MCU) and the MCU itself (which would be the tegra board). If there are no complaints about...

Check the alerts for mismatch between gw and mcu. Check the fw. If it’s the same, go for it.

One thing: be careful when trying those things. A fw mismatch might mean no 12V support, so make sure you don’t kill the 12V battery.

Are they on the same fw version? If so, it can work. If not, you’ll mess things up, but it will be undoable just by reinstalling the stuff back as it was. Alternatively, you can try that, and if there is a fw mismatch, redeploy. @LayZ most likely can assist you, if you don’t know how to do it.

I’m not sure if this will work for you, but DM if you want it.

I might have a battery tool somewhere. Let me see if I can find it later, when I get back home.

Hi Adam, I’m sorry you’re having a bad experience. It is important to do a lot of research before diving in. I was researching for two years before I bought my salvage Tesla, and I was extremely selective with my auctions. Anyway, this is not what you want to hear. Here a couple of hints that...

They replace the whole tegra board. Tesla might be doing fine resoldering work because they might be running out of tegra boards, but certainly not at the SC level. They might take your broken board somewhere to fix it, and offer it to the next guy.

If the MCUs are not rooted, the CIDs won’t respond to ping (maybe they will just a few seconds during boot). Did you exchange just the displays? Maybe you need to check the connections. You can do it on the bench, the CID should boot fine. Did you accidentally break something when removing the...

AC unit is critical for battery cooling. There is a list of things they check in their internal documents (accessible through service.tesla.com).

I think it would me more like “PM these 2000 guys…” xD. It is fine.

I would pay the money if they allowed me. But you are right, most likely nobody will say anything like “it’s working for me”. It is significant, though, that nobody said “this happened to me”.

Ok, let me change the question. Is there someone out there with a salvage car, SC enabled by 3rd party, that supercharges regularly? If so, any problems so far?

I would also be interested in knowing about this: The source has reputation, but so far zero cases. And something like this would have made waves in this forum. So did this ever happened to anyone?

The P/N is in the epc, I bought it from Tesla, but indeed it is double-sided tape.

Ylu should be able to do both of them (one after the other) during the same service appointment. The expensive part is the HV inspection, the other one might raise the total price to ~1000£, but this is my estimate.

I think they did, but it is a separate inspection that can only be done after the HV inspection.

The “easy” way to do it is to set euvehicle to 1 and reprogram the body controller with toolbox. Then everything works. If you want to mess with the wiring, I’m not the right person to ask, but some other people here know.

There are people that replace single modules. Although that usually ends up in disaster, it works for some time. All this tells me that you probably don’t need a blank BMS to replace them.

You got a chance then ;)

Hi @iconic, @wk057 is the expert on battery modules, but if I understand well what you did, you are potentially facing a real mess. It seems the battery modules are really picky about their neighbors, and not every module matches every module, even if they are nominally the same.

Hi @nicog. I have no idea about multiple SRS resets. Everything should work, and if it doesn’t, either the module is not properly reset, or there is something I don’t know. Before giving up, I’d try another way of reseting it. It’s good that TAS works, the crash data must have been properly...

To be clear, if everything is ok, the airbag light should go away on its own. Check that all the connections are ok. The 12V pyro is tricky. I had to replace a knee aribag, and the one that arrived had a different plastic housing for the connector, so I transplanted the old one into the new...

No. Make sure the pyrofuse of the 12V is ok. Check all the connections with the seat belts and the airbags. If it still does not go away, then the SRS module was not cleared properly. It happened to me, and I had to resend it to be cleared. You can use a T-Can or a different diagnostic tool to...