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Wow Tesla added a ton of grease on the shaft+seal area. Mine is pretty snug but also don't have any of the corrosion patterns. Hear suction sound when pulled. 2013 MS 78k miles and lives in garaged space and no salted roads. Looks like Tesla definitely added some goo there. Mine 17 reman has...

Tesla use to put hole there to equalize pressure as rotor slides sides ways ever so slightly with those 2 bevel washers on the outer bearing. I guess the theory was the seal/reluctor wheel chamber will get pressure change when this happens thus a hole equalizes against the remaining LDU air...

Grease on Speed Sensor Thats packed with some serious grease. Its pretty obvious Tesla original/reman LDU rotor shaft+seal are packed with grease for some reason (maybe to help install?) I've been thinking triple lip packed with grease might last longer (original early LDU that didn't get...

Interesting thought on red # can be limits. I see the prior post + follow up post with @vanR on what the temps sources might be ( link ) Interesting in that thread there are MCU coolant pics with red #s in white and some white # don't have temps.

I think Tesla LDU factory/reman packs seal lips+shaft with grease on install (counter what every PTFE seal install manual says... must be pristine clean) Thus every 1st pull of speed sensor from Tesla have grease on it. After cleaning it off, subsequence pulls with no longer have grease and only...

Have seen this menu previously (Tesla activated diag mode or I think rooted cars only) Was always curious about the stator temp of ~170C (prior link) The other temps are much cooler (inlet to the motor, 2 on the inverter) 2 on inverter are in coolant flow passage and inlet is surely coolant...

Did some additional research on IM thermal analysis. This is definitely a lost art. Not the common digital computer HW/SW design knowledge in US these days. Expert Knowledge Source and Book Found a couple of authors of a key text book for motor designs through their online articles. US prof is...

I don’t know but I’d assume so. Magnetic field is generated by current flow in the IM’s rotor in drive and regen. Google induction generator for info. But it’s beyond me. Don’t know how much it helps to reduce heat with less regen. Judging by the instrument panel, regen current is not...

google "induction motor broken rotor bar" and "induction motor laminate failure" Lots of studies illustrate temperature effect on rotor thermal stress. Rotor is the most interior and naturally the hottest and hardest part of an induction motor (IM) to cool. I do read service life of (IM) goes...

Here is some guidance for an attempt ( link ) Very tricky with lots of issues and existing collateral damage will remain and further damage is likely as leak will not just seek out the drain for exit and likely some will continue to tour around the LDU.

@denonbike (can't get quoted msg to work at the moment for some reason) I'd get that fixed right away. That much rust means rotor shaft is all rusted and coolant has been leaking a long time. Likely have made it into the stator, the bearing on the other side of rotor, and possibly the inverter...

Axel seal is $4 each at Tesla ~2 years ago. Seal comes pre greased No reason to change o-rings for B+ B- cover, 3 phase bolt cover, coolant inlet, speed sensor. Flyover tube. Nothing happens to these. Can reuse. The rotor bearing oring is just there to stop outer race from spinning in the...

Regarding running the PTFE seal dry, the other concern would be frictional heat. When installing a new PTFE seal, its sized like 2mm+ less than the 30mm shaft and material is like hard plastic. At least initially, it grabs pretty tight and would provide some friction. A triple lip PTFE seal...

Not sure you have coolant yet from those pics. EVERY SINGLE first speed sensor pull on LDU from Tesla looks like this (also confirmed with @ajbessinger at QCC) I believe Tesla is greasing the seal on install. All PTFE seal literature says to keep it clean on install but I'm guessing grease will...

Half Shaft Inner CV Boot Easy to Cut The half shafts coming out of the LDU has 2 CV joints. They are Inner = NTN Pillow Tripod Joint 100mm (849 PTJ100, hard to read in pic with double struck lettering but confirmed. don't know what 849 stands for) Boot is 367-100. I believe 100 = 100mm, don't...

Coolant Delete Update @mr_hyde had some Stainless Steel seal bore caps made. These are 55.1mm OD just like interference fit seals with SS cages. 1mm thick. Press in easily and securely with vice/press and conforms to the Aluminum bore, seals with a coat of RTV just like prior coolant seal...

Ceramic Bearing Update Some interesting observations on this 3rd rebuild (prior 2 failed due to shaft rust + leaky seal) I now have 6x of these expensive bearings to compare against The outer (facing manifold) bearing from this last install has 500 miles and a drag Drag is determined to be the...

Anyone has this measurement? mine is just under 228mm. Each ceramic bearings are 14mm width. Asking because my 2 bevel washer spring on the outer bearing bore seems to get completely compressed (install motor end plate until bevel washer spring engaged. end plate to stator to housing gap is...

In case anyone wants to know whats inside the rotor The motor production video is a Mitsubishi Electric air cooled Induction Motor (IM) common in industrial usage. See the fins at the end of the rotor and on the stator casing for cooling. Stator/rotor size is bigger than the LDU so probably...

For anyone thats interested in pursuing a advanced face seal solution. Additional info + updates Discussed with more face seal manufacturers on how to handle minute leak. Learned a bit more how water pump handles this.. It isn't just a matter of a weep hole. Dynamic (while shaft is turning)...

My measurements are 55.1mm @ 3 different 120 degree angles on my Ceimin seal As @asavage notes, this is stainless steel rather than aluminum. I also don't have any expertise in interference fit. But there are many online metal interference fit tables, I'm just not experienced enough to know...

There is likely a very robust EV motor coolant seal technology that already exist. However, it is unlikely the aftermarket or DIY community can access it. But I'll post it here. Those in EU might have better luck to engage with the much more mature right to repair culture and potentially more...

Need an Induction Motor Engineer to really gain some insight on thermal degradation behavior. Here are a few things to keep in mind Less cooling requirement is EXACTLY why nearly all EV/hybrid electric motors use permanent magnet rotor in last 3 decades. Those rotors can't even be pull out of...

Here are some info for people who want to find a proper seal solution to keep rotor cooling and avoid seal leaks. If changing manifold is part of the solution, it is entire possible to get a properly design seal to handle water sealing. Basically, I believe Tesla used the wrong seal solution...

Industrial Induction Motor are often AIr Cooled BUT with fan blades Most industrial induction motors are air cooled. They have multiple sets of fan blades attached to the rotor to create air flow on the rotor and stator. And stator's housing is of course finned to increase heat exchange surface...

Using Air to Cool? Regarding cooling the rotor, maybe there is another possible option : Forced Air. Just like CPU+GPU in computers can be cooled by 2-3 methods Fan + heat sink / fins to increase heat exchanger surface area AIr jets (not in consumer computers but I think have been used in the...

An EU member posted on @NV Ray FB group their still under warranty MS's reman rev T LDU leaked and got another reman rev T. This member was wondering if Tesla "reverted" Sport LDU from -U to -T in EU due to thermal problem. EU catalog shows Base LDU is reman Rev-Q and Sport LDU is reman Rev-T...

This may not matter but the coolant inlet in diagram is for MB 250e / Rav4EV. Model S sticks straight out https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=39993#p39993 https://sites.google.com/view/teslaldu/parts#h.hzn4zhwa5v2n Bottom of LDU where inlet is also not too far from the mid aero...

To add context for others @mr_hyde came over and helped me pull the reluctor wheel, speedi-sleeve, and the rotor. My < 1k miles test of an SKF FKM seal that failed (should fail by design due to low surface speed but a couple of people said been running dry for thousands of miles) Failure...

BTW, @blodg1 solution for drilling + sleeve a tube for coolant delete (post #108 also know others that have done 10+ same way) works because there is at least 5mm+ of clearance from shoulder below circlip to the rotor shaft per my measurements in post #198. Quite a bit of space although...

I had similar ideas. Post #139 shows analysis of eliminating coolant channel through the fly over tube. I guess main purpose of that channel is just so rotor coolant channel have a return line. Not sure if much benefit for air bleed. However, if willing to do simple dremel modification of...

Maybe but not a lot of room to work with down there. I can see LDU supported on jack stands while subframe comes down. Still need to pull the axles which disassemble the hub shock/links/arms/brake calipers The 5 bolts holding LDU in subframe (front, rear, 3 on driver side right in front of...

Did a bunch of measurements while considering speedi sleeve shaft surface reconditioning and needed to figure out where the seal lips will land. Also calculated how deep of a cup is necessary for those looking to remove coolant tube and cap the seal bore. Looks like need to go about 15mm deep...

This solution might be a little extreme If the portion of the rotor shaft for the seal is cut off (I'll call it the snout, probably no balance problems being in the center of the 70lb rotor, if examine the rotor closely, all the weight drilling marks to balance the rotor is towards the outer...

Looks like the 2 halves of my reman LDU gearbox is made 4 year apart. LDU Label says T13...R1 inverter 1/2 of the case has printed T17... So I'd guess stator 1/2 of case is 13 and inverter 1/2 17. Here is the history of battling a whine in this gearbox for 7 years Got a regen whine when...

That’s great to know you have 12+6mm depth to use. Post #106 shows fairly clean bore with tube pressed out. So 2 pressed on stainless caps with RTV in the right shape would work great. I’ll reach out to Ceimin triple lip seal maker to see if they can provide stainless steel caps. They are...

Might need 13-14mm deep ( post #57 pdf )Rotor also sits on a bevel washer spring so theoretically can push out a little (< 0.5mm?) on high speed right hand motion. But yes, would be nice just to have a stainless cap in this shape where seal use to go. Small custom PTFE seal makers will make...

Pulling the LDU and maybe 3rd time is a charm :) First rebuild rusted under triple lip PTFE seal. Reman LDU rotor shaft likely had inherited compromised rust proofing in Tesla reman. 2nd rebuild leaked in 500 miles. Chose a FKM (more advanced than traditional NBR rubber) seal with 2 others...

Forgot to link a bit more explanation on relationship between seal and shaft surface https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/posts/8053198/

Problem is not just the seal. Its the worn shaft seal surface. If don't properly refinish surface (quite challenging and appears Tesla doesn't do it). Seal has no chance to last.

Forgot to mention HV SAFETY. Definitely disconnect the HV first responder loop even if most of cutting / poking around is away from the inverter. The pair of B+ B- HV cable to the LDU probably runs about 1-2 feet away from where you got the hole. === On 2nd thought, leaving the PTFE seal in...

Interesting access method! Luckily LDU HV cables run along the other (passenger) side :) I know the motivation to not remove the LDU. But couple of thoughts Not too hard with 2 floor jacks, 8' 4x4 strong wooden beam and a cheap motorcycle jack See post #91 towards the bottom "Jacking Up the...

Have had similar thoughts. I wonder if JB Weld will seal completely from minute leaks against the coolant media?

If it is down on power, then maybe Tesla loaded firmware to reduce the LDU power. Another alternative is higher temperature picked up by thermal sensor limiting the power output but I don't see how that can be instant after powering up a cold car. I'm guessing detuning LDU is similar/same as not...

Probably locale specific so you should inquire SC near you in EU. New (and reman) rev U LDU will no longer have leak problem since rotor cooling is deleted. Older rev new LDU may not last as long as early ones. I suspect once Tesla went to single lip seal for reman LDU, they may have just used...

My understanding is EV Clinic use triple lip seal. Currently I only know 1 triple lip PTFE seal supply for this LDU from small Chinese company via Aliexpress. Many DIYer worry poor quality from aliexpress seal. But from every LDU rebuild I have seen, they ALL use this seal. I can easily confirm...

My first reseal with triple lip seal + polished shaft resulted in rust under the lip interior chambers ( link ) then try to do flame spray to repair the shaft like carrepairvideo on youtube but terrible result (porous finish link and ruined chamfer link ) Finally tried SKF speedi sleeve with...

Seen EV Clinic's videos on LDU repair. They do really good process to recondition the rotor shaft (looks like they chrome plate -> polish) Tesla reman doesn't seem to recondition the shaft surface based on inspecting my reman LDU. PTFE seal and shaft surface are both key factors in a good seal...

Parking brake plugs removal + install is a PITA. Wrong angle and hard to get leverage on the driver side red locking clip. During reinstall, no matter how hard I squeeze the plug could lock one of the clips so I just gave up haha. uninstall link1 reinstall link2

Have always thought that clip was at risk during unclip. I use 1 thin and 1 thicker flat head screwdrive to wiggle out sensor without unclipping. Need to work gently to avoid damaging the o-ring on the sensor that seals against the hole.