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Both common problems. For the bolt rusting issue, you can order the parts from a Tesla Service Center and then have an independent mechanic replace them for about a half-hour of labor (or even DIY, if you are capable). The parts you need are the rear hatch strut ball studs and C-clips. You can...

That sounds like a good value assuming that you are sure that FUSC will stick. I would also try to find out, if possible, if any suspension work has been done. It's a heavy car, so it's around the age that it will need some suspension parts replaced if that hasn't been done already. Suspension...

That is a version of the 350V replacement pack that many folks on this forum have received to replace a failed 85 pack. I'm not an expert on these, but I bought my own used car because it had one of these packs recently installed, and it gave me peace of mind. So in your case, since the B...

No, you can't test it this way. The SC01 gets stripped at the time when the new owner registers it in their Tesla account. Right now, it's sitting in a nice but misleading limbo state where SC01 still works, because neither Tesla nor the dealership has registered the car in a new Tesla account.

This will not be perfect confirmation, but you should ask the dealership how they acquired the car and ask to see the title document (to look at the chain of ownership). If they took it as a trade-in directly from the first owner, then it's likely that SC01 will stay after you purchase it...

Are you willing to ship?

If you are prioritizing the free supercharging, the safest bet is to buy a one-owner, original-owner SC01 car from a private party and confirm that this person has not bought or ordered a new Tesla (e.g. the person has already replaced the Tesla with a non-Tesla). Then SC01 should transfer to...

This is not something you directly asked about, but a very low mileage P (performance) car like the ones you're considering can add some risk around the large rear drive unit. Sitting around being not driven is not good for the large rear drive unit of performance cars of that vintage. You can...

If you haven't already approved the estimate, keep in mind that suspension arm replacements are something that a reputable independent mechanic can do for you for much less (lower hourly rates). You can also save some money on the parts by buying reputable aftermarket parts (e.g. Sidem/Beck-Arnley).

I got the phantom frunk open errors, plus some false alarm sounds, when my car was 7 years old. This was resolved by replacing the passenger side ground nut, which was corroded enough to fall right out of the car when handled. I haven't needed to replace the driver's side yet, and I have that...

Yes, this is a common problem caused by corroded grounding studs. This fix should take care of these issues. These studs are easy to inspect, so my recommendation is to have them inspected periodically (or inspect them yourself if you are handy enough). These studs get corroded in environments...

A general piece of advice is to be willing to take your car to a reputable independent mechanic for all conventional systems like suspension, air conditioning, brakes, etc. Tesla took most of these parts from other major manufacturers, e.g. a lot of the A/C parts are Hyundai. You will both save...

I know that the DM SS is the one that goes into my P85D with plus suspension - it's the plus suspension version (Dual Motor Sport Suspension). By process of elimination, yours is likely to be the non-DM option.

I don't know about overall corrosion prevention, but in your climate you should definitely regularly inspect the ground nuts on both driver's and passenger's sides in the space underneath the frunk tub. Search this forum for "ground nut" and you'll see the various problems and false errors that...

Have you tried reducing the regenerative braking in order to get used to it? I'm pretty sure that's what's making you feel the motion sickness. I drove a loaner Model 3 for the first time recently and was not used to the stronger regen. A passenger told me that my driving was very unsmooth!

Found out that my car will still supercharge. The IC display while supercharging doesn't seem accurate, however, as far as the charging speed and time remaining goes. The time remaining stays fixed and then occasionally jumps, so it seems to be periodically updating instead of continuously...

Yes, but they may not have enough clips in stock - that was my experience with my local SC.

Reliability is probably pretty good on that model, but there are no guarantees, of course. If you are valuing SC01 for yourself and this is at a dealership, make sure you do your research on this forum on the circumstances when SC01 will not transfer even if the car has this feature right now...

Yes, it's a 2014, and the center screen currently is stuck on the rear camera view. I guess I feel lucky that they created a limited functionality mode specifically for this event, and so I can drive around with basic safety features for a few weeks.

I thought about trying to connect to Wifi, but not sure how to do this with a crippled MCU.

I'm one of those non-tech oriented folks who let the 3G modem sunset without doing anything about it, so no access to charging through the app - and I do not think this would work anyways with a crippled MCU. Just sucks for me that I reduced my max level to 70% right before this happened.

My 2014 MCU1 just got stuck this morning on the rear camera view - it's displaying the rear camera view while the car is on or off, and I'm able to drive in some kind of limited functionality mode with no access to my own settings. I've tried both the double-scroll and the four-finger reboot...

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/front-aft-lower-control-arms-oem-vs-beck-arnley.246653/ This is a useful thread on this topic. I ended up buying Sidem/Beck-Arnley control arms after doing my research on this forum. Sidem sells on eBay but sometimes is sold out. So I bought 3 Sidem and 1...

Please search this forum for the many responses about free supercharging - it's not guaranteed with the 2016 and older cars. If a car ever got returned to Tesla (i.e. trade in, lease return), Tesla will remove the free supercharging for subsequent owners. Many third party used car dealers do not...

Even with gloves, I can tell that I would appreciate the heated steering wheel - that's why I wish I had the cold weather package. In terms of not fogging up the windows with the cabin heat off, it's just been my experience that if I'm driving solo, I can usually avoid the fogging. Maybe I'm...

I think something around $32K would be worth it, but only if the battery was replaced with the new 350V battery and not remanufactured.

I think it's safe to assume that the depreciation will be steep because you're nearing the end of the 8 year HV/DU warranty. 75D also won't be as desirable as 100D.

The trend is explained in this thread: Vendor - Preventative Maintenance regarding Battery Failures in early Model S vehicles (2012-2014) Because this is commonly caused by a poorly placed AC drain hose and insufficient protection from water in the early battery designs, it can happen at low...

No (in general). If they feel like being nice to you, they may give you a brief oral summary. In my case, they briefly summarized work that had been done within the past few years.

I know you're asking about FUSC, but also a word of caution about paying a premium for a very low mileage car. There are some informed opinions on this forum about low usage contributing to more failures of seals in the large drive unit (which all RWD cars have). More generally, low mileage...

Also look at Re/Cell in Texas (they post frequently in this forum) for another cost-effective, reputable 3rd party replacement option, esp. if you are willing to go with their lower-range option. Unfortunately the water ingress problem is a known flaw with the early (2012-2014) S cars - there's...

For a commuter car that you're going to allow to get dinged up, I recommend sticking with non-P, AWD cars that will not have the large rear drive unit. The small rear drive units are much more reliable. Used Ss can be relatively trouble free if you're lucky, but they also can be money pits...

The insurance issue is very important to consider, especially because an older Tesla can get totaled by even a minor accident due to the high costs of certified Tesla body work.

In your shoes, I would try to confirm from others on this forum with direct experience that Arnott is a viable option for the air suspension compressor. There seem to be plenty of ppl who have used the Arnott air struts as replacements, and air strut replacement is in fact how I learned about...

In your shoes, I would probably do enough research to assure myself that Arnott is reliable, and then I would probably go with new Arnott.

If you go aftermarket, I would recommend Arnott. I haven't had to use this brand yet for my Tesla but did so successfully with my previous car's air suspension system.

RWD vs non-performance AWD (85D, 90D) definitely matters - the non-performance AWD models have the "small" rear drive unit that is much more reliable than the large RDUs in RWD and performance AWD cars. Besides the battery, large RDUs are another expensive item that can go at any time on the...

Everyone's risk tolerance is different. I wasn't willing to risk buying an 8 year old battery. Only Tesla has the exact statistics, so there's no real way to estimate the risk. The oldest S's (2012-2014) had higher risk of failure due to design issues - you can read this thread on this forum. I...

You're looking at cars that will have little to no warranty left, so your biggest risk is the HV battery. If you have the time, I would recommend searching for an older S that has had a recent HV battery replacement done with a new (not remanufactured) battery. You can search these forums to...

For a 2016, one would expect that you only have the battery and drivetrain warranty, and so this would be customer pay. You can purchase the ball joints and clips from Tesla Service Center and take it to a 3rd party mechanic to install, to save on labor.

One thing that doesn't seem right about this label is that a reman battery label should have 01 at the end of the part number: -01-B. So I would question whether the label itself is accurate - maybe they somehow missed producing the label for the reman pack, and what you're looking at may be the...

Look on this forum for many postings about the 1014116 series of (new) replacement batteries for older Model S cars - these are being made out of current 100-type cells, but using 14 cells instead of 16. It would not make sense for Tesla to let batteries sit around as spares, because they...

I'm sorry to hear about your experience. However, there are legitimate battery replacement options other than Tesla that you can explore. The two that have been pretty well vetted on this forum are 057 Technologies in NC and Recell in TX. Good luck with deciding how to proceed. If you look...

If you're still satisfied by how your car's computer is functioning (response time, functions that are important to you), then I would take the free option of having your small screen (I think you mean instrument cluster screen) replaced under your extended warranty. The prices you are being...

I believe the chargeport door assembly needs to be replaced - this is common and inexpensive (around $200 including labor).

I suggest reading this thread b/c it's possible your car has the A/C condensate drain dump on top of the HV battery: Vendor - Preventative Maintenance regarding Battery Failures in early Model S vehicles (2012-2014) If so, since your car is so low mileage, it would be worthwhile for you to...

Honestly, at this point I suggest you find a trusted person in your personal life to do this kind of used car negotiation for you (doesn't matter that it's an EV, this is about used car bargaining). If you don't know such a person, there are such things as professional car buying services, and...

Another potentially helpful tip if OP ends up looking at other used S's from private parties: Don't be afraid of minor accidents in the Carfax, esp. if in the first couple of years of the car's life, IF the owner will talk to you and show you records of the repairs from a certified Tesla...

This is a good catch, spotting the missing front parking sensors. If there has been front bumper damage, keep in mind that there are a lot of plastic parts under the bumper that can get cracked. Relatively minor front end damage can be $$$ to repair because of those internal parts. The...

Another recommendation to not buy a heavily used Tesla if you can barely afford the purchase price. Sure, you might be lucky and have no repair needs, but I wouldn't count on it if you are buying *a dented car* from a dealer. I empathize with your love of the car, because it's a great driving...