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After an hour or so, you're at full temperature. "A little bit warm" is what I'd expect. To me that says you should be fine leaving it at 13a and no need to lower it, or let it rest.

Or replace the receptacle on the end of the cord (since 75ft, 30a extension cords are not cheap). If you've been in the habit of unplugging the mobile connector often, I'd stop doing that as it's a likely cause of your problem.

Is the WiFi signal marginal in your garage? It's possible that having the car plugged in might, in some miniscule amount, interfere with the connection.

It's a question of value, not of logic. Do you value having the car finish charging close to time of departure more than making sure you optimize charging during off-peak? My feeling is that it's unlikely to make a significant difference in 95+% of cases. I use SDC because I wanted to try it...

There's certainly no problem with adding protection from rain. However, there are hundreds (thousands?) of outdoor installs of wall connectors that indicate that it's really not a problem. For that matter, Supercharger plugs aren't really protected any better and they don't seem to have a...

Even if it's fine 99 times out of 100, the odds are too high for me.

One final option to ask about is a path that doesn't go through the home. Maybe around the outside, or through an attic or basement. It may be longer, but easier. I would not mess with the dryer circuit. It's one thing if the dryer is in the garage and you just have to have some sort of switch...

What I would suggest is letting it charge at 13a for an hour, at least. Stop the charge, immediately unplug the mobile connector and carefully feel the prongs and body of the plug and the face of the receptacle. If they seem too hot (like you can't keep your hand on it) then it might be...

Define "warm". A bit warm to the touch is normal. If anything is hot, which I define as too warm to comfortably hold in your hand, that would be a concern. Anyway, the amperage setting in the car and app can be a tad unreliable. If your GPS position is a little off, it will default back to full...

It doesn't seem to be. However, the only way we'll find out that it is available, is when someone tries to buy one at their service center and they succeed. It stands to reason that at some point, it will have to be available as a standalone part since people will have them go bad.

I though they were able to replace just the little plastic doohickey without doing the whole port. Or maybe that's just in later models? Wouldn't hurt to ask.

In that case, I have to question your mobile connector or the adapter. Can you test it at another location, or test with another mobile connector with your outlet?

MIA likely stands for "Missing in Action", and suggests that comms to either the charge port or the charge port ECU is failing. Just because the ECU board and chips are not visibly damaged doesn't mean that there wasn't a short or enough physical shock to damage it or the charge port. First...

Not on their wiring, which is only 8awg THHN.

In that case, you do have the option of upsizing the breaker to 50a. I wouldn't do so until and unless I anticipated needing the extra capacity. For example, if you wanted to plug in an RV, or wanted to wire in a wall connector and charge at 40a instead of 32a. I've been using a 30a EVSE on a...

Not a garden variety bug, otherwise it would be happening to everyone. You definitely have a fault somewhere. Best to have it fixed.

Sorry to break the bad news, but you only have two choices, neither of which will guaranty that you only charge between midnight and 5AM. You can set the start time, as you found, or you can set the end time of the off-peak period, and the car will try to calculate when it should start. My...

Calling people who question you "trolls" is very bad form. If Chargepoint is misrepresenting their product, we would be happy to agree with you, but we haven't been able to see where they have. You've made assertions without evidence. If you tell us where those assertions come from, then we can...

Yes, a lot of people don't understand how Sentry mode works. It doesn't notice an event, then start recording, it records constantly and when it detects an event, saves the current recording. So, the drain is constant.

In short, the adapters for RVs and the adapters for EVs are wired differently. Neither will work for the other use. Get one labeled for EV use and limit the charge rate to 24a and it would work fine. The EVSEadapters link above is nice because it will limit charging rate to the max that 30a...

Tesla had the advantage of not having to work with anything but Tesla vehicles. They didn't even implement billing for the first several years, just gave it away free, without worrying about making money. When they did do it, they could hook into their own back end, and didn't have to accept...

Yes, but laws are not the same and this whole thread is about U.S. code in regards to disconnects. Plus, you don't even say what you're trying to do. Plug in a mobile connector? Install a wall connector?

Everything in this thread is specific to North America. Your question doesn't even make sense. All good for what? Anyway, you should probably ask in the regional forum for your area.

Do you really want to subject the battery in your expensive CT to extra cycling on a regular basis? I'd rather add another Powerwall.

Congrats for answering 4 year old posts in a thread last replied to 2 years ago, and getting your facts wrong. A 240v circuit is made up of two 120v phases, which makes it less than 150v to ground.

The relays should never be carrying significant current when closing or opening. The car commands them to close, checks the voltage, then starts drawing current. Same when you press the button to remove the plug, the car stops drawing current, then commands the relays to open (or the removal of...

The chance of both of the other modules failing at the same time isn't very high. 16a charging is enough to get to work and to the service center. I'd probably live with 32a until and unless a second module failed.

I could see that happening if the EVSE is malfunctioning and signaling a higher charge rate than it actually supports. If the car started pulling more than than 30a or so, the EVSE might abort the charge. Many cars max out around 30-32a anyway, so would just work, but Teslas go higher. If you...

With the burnt look of the PC board, I'd have probably added jumper wires to the back of the board to parallel the traces that carry the charging current. Couldn't hurt.

I went back to find @FalconFour's writeup on the DIY retrofit and he says Oct 2020, so I assume that's the cutoff. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/retrofit-ccs-compatibility-onto-earlier-na-model-3-diy-approach.251046/

You may want to check that you don't already have CCS compatibility by going into software->additional info. Some cars of that vintage did get the CCS capable ECU if I remember right.

Actually somewhere in mid to late 2019 as I recall.

Another panel is not required. That's one of the features of the DCC-9 and DCC-11. I mentioned it only as a possible method to install other demand charging solutions. However, they do need to be wired between the meter and the main panel, so that's why I'm asking about where they are located.

The J3400 spec doesn't include the CAN style comms that current wall connectors (and I think mobile connectors) use before falling back to J1772, so I expect they will use straight J1772 signalling. The current crop of Tesla to J1772 adapters have logic to get the Tesla EVSE to fall back to...

I'm guessing that your meter is in or adjacent to your garage and the main panel is in the basement? You should be able to install any DCC type of solution by putting a new main panel in the garage fed from the meter that then feeds the old main panel in the basement. That new main panel would...

The cars themselves can schedule charging, so the EVSE doesn't really need the capability.

You can replace the 14-50 with a small load center (example below) then use two breakers installed there to do the runs to the wall connectors. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-100-Amp-6-Space-12-Circuit-Indoor-Surface-Mount-Main-Lug-Load-Center-with-Cover-HOM612L100SCP/100190554

I agree it sounds like this might be the case. If the OP would post photos of both the car's inlet, and the plug they are plugging in, we might be able to see what the problem is.

Just to reinforce what's been said. All L2 charging rates are slow in the context of these large batteries. There's nothing to be gained by lowering the charging rate from a battery degradation point of view.

Maybe a few, but it really seems to be Tesla policy to hang onto any old parts they can.

That's where the neutral would have ended up if the NM cable had been long enough to be installed normally. I would have done the same thing.

Wow. That's a pretty basic thing to miss. Especially to miss TWICE. He certainly made no attempt to verify the wall connector was powering on successfully.

If it was replaced under warranty, it has the balance of the original warranty. If the battery swap was paid for out of pocket, then it has it's own warranty.

Great news! Would you be willing to give us a longer synopsys? Like who repaired it, how it was finally diagnosed, and what status you now have with Tesla and your warranty?

Post in thread '16A Restriction in Private Household? (Europe)' 16A Restriction in Private Household? (Europe) So there's either some way that they get to use at least two of the modules at once, or the charger really is different.

I don't think that's been true for some time. At least not with a Tesla wall connector.

Of course, if the jumper pack is inside the car, then you can't use it to open the frunk. Some people store a small 9v battery behind that cover to use to open the frunk, then keep the jumper pack in the frunk so they can then jump the car.

I had a similar problem crop up a few weeks ago. I had a few instances where the mobile connector my wife uses would show red lights. Unplugging it and plugging it back in would fix the problem. A week or so later, the AFCI breaker for the plugs in one of the bedrooms tripped. When I went to...

Sounds like a reasonable interim, or even permanent, solution. I just wanted to point out that you don't have to upgrade to 60a to install a wall connector, a lot of people here just like to max everything out. It can be set for the 30a circuit you have now, if you like.

My undertanding is that the charger itself is the same unit in NA and the EU. In EU cars, three phase charging is done by connecting each of the three phases one of the three modules in the charger. This is one of the reasons why our NA chargers even HAVE three modules in them instead of just...