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This…

Hrmm. Of the available adjustments, I’d guess you have a front toe issue. A service appointment should be able to fix it.

Very comfortable with adjusting pressures in accordance with tire size and desired handling :) . That said, one can be several tenths of a degree out of toe alignment before it becomes really apparent, especially on narrower tires that are less prone to tramlining, and especially with stock...

Fake covers over unfinished open-ended lug nuts I imagine is a cheaper solution than trying to provide lug nuts that cover the rusty studs and have a finish that lasts. Shrug. Also, yeah unfortunately for anything but OEM fitments I would just buy all my own stuff and take it to them / ship it...

High pressure with high camber will indeed wear the inners faster. But, toe is almost always the culprit with inner wear, rather than camber. One can run well below factory pressures if using wider tires!

Hah fair enough!

Just noticed in two back-to-back posts you say you cannot believe my claim that the AC can use up to 7kw of energy, and then cite a source corroborating 6+1kw. Did I miss something?

I usually get software updates pretty early in the evening. If the device is charged when you get home, I suspect you could download the updates and update before the device dies. Provided the device you choose has sufficient battery life, and the car is powered up for long enough each day to...

Never would have expected the 245 wouldn’t carry the load rating needed. You should be able to get away with a 255/35 (27”) and 285/30 (26.7”). But 245/40R20 (27.7”) absolutely will not fit up front under the knuckle.

@b00st2r One correction: with the 20” wheel and a 285 your minimum pressure should be 33 PSI to maintain the same load capacity as the OEM 235.

The FF10 seems like a really nice wheel for the money! I don’t think you’ll have any issues with the 285 on a +45 offset. I am running about 2.4-2.5 degrees of rear camber, and at +35 (with performance brakes, so about +39 relative to yours) I have a solid 15mm of inboard clearance...

No, at 2 degrees camber you’d need a lot of height to not rub all the time. That said, with 0 toe and an appropriate tire pressure for the width (maybe 30-32 PSI cold), you won’t see much more wear at 3 degrees.

You would likely need 3+mm spacers to clear the tire, even if the wheel might barely fit. This is my 285 on a 19x11+28. While the extra half inch on the wheel pulls the sidewall out a hair more, I am not sure there is space for a full 5mm closer inboard on the sidewall / shoulder. Also, even...

I saw the race video on Facebook and knew I recognized the white M3P!!

For simplicity you can probably re-align with the FUCA shims back out. I’m sure you’ve heard this, but race camber with zero toe has minimal impact on tire wear, as long as you are also running appropriately-reduced pressures for wider tires. I just swapped out my 275/35R-9 all-seasons at 5k...

Yes, floppy flaps would have avoided this! When I installed them I thought I was still resisting the modification bug… Little did I know…

For a stock vehicle I can see them being fine. As you approach wider wheels and tires they aren’t wide enough to prevent dirty water from spraying down the sides (or from gravel hitting the rocker panel with sticky tires). And, all four of mine broke off within a few months of lowering due to...

This statement was already challenged on page 2 :) . I believe our assumption was to expect no citation :P .

You can do a sensor recalibration pretty easily, no? Of note, I never saw a change in Autosteer (not FSD) performance after lowering as much as 1.5”.

Most 275s are designed for 9.0-10.5” wheels so will indeed safely fit. You’ll trade a bit of precision for the modest increases in comfort, ride height, and curb protection of the 275. For your stated priorities, I’d go 275/35 for sure.

Ooh. Good point! I didn’t catch the 9.5” width haha.

I have had two pretty overt events that Sentry Mode failed to catch, yet it seems eager to record everyone loading groceries across the parking lot… I’m convinced Sentry Mode is pretty useless…

I honestly didn’t know anyone made such devices when I built this! Mine was definitely overbuilt and I’d have kept it had it been as simple as your setup!

A quick google search supports my suspicion that one should not conduct unlimited replacements of press-fit ball joints. (I.e. DON’T REPLACE A ‘PRESSED-IN’ BALL JOINT MORE THAN ONCE. ) I’m not sure if there is space for a bolt-in ball joint.

I suspect the hubs are very similar or exactly the same. From Unplugged Performance (thread linked below), the front Refresh M3P’s wheels have the same width and offset as the previous Uberturbines. Front fitment is by far the most challenging so knowing these are exactly the same simplifies...

Truly, just about all of them!! Search for threads started by MasterC17! He was an early M3P racer, and has gone about as far as one can with a daily-able M3P without getting crazy with $5,000 CF doors and such. He even started the now-sticker “Mods for the Track” thread at the top of this forum.

I volunteer as a tester…..

That was my observation as well.

That would be a 27.6” tire, which won’t fit inside the front knuckle. The 235/40R19 would fit!

I do have a few swirls here and there from not using enough water early on with heavy water spots. Those are why I started using a wet rag to loosen any stuck-on dust (I.e. after a dusty rain). Of course, they are only visible at the right angles within a few feet. I have like 100 rock chips so...

Can you believe what Elon said about my car’s efficiency? (Daily driving on 19x11s wrapped in 285s…)

Also, they couldn’t be very wide or flush without also rubbing at the front and rear of the wheel wells when turning***

Climate and average speeds make such a huge difference. Bebopping around NORCAL’s perfect weather at 55mph, where the climate control could be run on a cell phone battery, is MUCH different than, for example, constant trips at 85mph across open Texas highways at 108 degrees in the summer and 35...

I’ve heard of folks swapping in Model Y knuckles to allow ~29” tires, up from the 27” possible on the Model 3. I have no idea what other parts would need to be swapped (LCAs? UCAs? Compression Rods? Steering tie rods? Front shock bodies?) to make it work, though.

Wheel and tire specs? (Size / offset?)

I think the idea is just compete for PAX. Unless they are pasting EVX results in website.com/garbagefile, everyone will still see you race and will still see your times posted right alongside theirs. I’ve been the only EV in all but one event, but folks still pay attention :) .

The new top hats, as far as I can tell, have not developed any issues!

Truly whichever was cheapest on Rock Auto. I think all four arms were maybe $70 each. I was just trying to confirm it was those. That said, I am also not confident OEM ones are particularly more durable either. I’d happily spend more than that on higher-end individual joints that I press into...

At maybe 12 months and 25k miles (lots of road trips) and maybe 7 AutoX events plus two track days, I started hearing the dreaded “ball joint rattle.” I have experienced failing ball joints before and was familiar with that low-load heavy rattling. Still, I went through every nut and bolt on the...

Is it possible to modify the arms to make the ball joints replaceable, even with an aftermarket option? I don’t like the idea of having to continually re-press the spherical bearings into new arms every time a ball joint wears a bit and starts making noise.

Given the language about the tools required to swap the rear upper shock mounts, I am concerned they expect you to swap the old too hats onto the rears. But yes, that is what I used for the front!

I stick to 9&3 unless I really have to wrap the car around a tight hairpin! (Don’t mind the overly high stability assist… was experimenting and found it really annoying… Also, yes the music is a bit over the top but I am who I am… )

I’d 100% rock this vehicle.

Google “Aerodynamic Splitter!” (Granted, I’m not sure how valuable a splitter would be for real times on a car with bags instead of solid coils & dampers, but I have no judgment of others’ tastes!)

I had a coolant leak fixed in the fall (~38k miles) and they didn’t say anything negative. Of course, this doesn’t mean I’m not on some secret blacklist (as much for all the other suspension mods, or even my track mode data, vs just having aftermarket wheels).

Yeah I think it is only really noticeable when the tires are close to the fender (lowered with near-flush fitments), but concur this phenomenon is not likely caused by or even mechanically correlated with the actual act of lowering!

Chatting with @MountainPass about it, they said when lowering these vehicles and chasing flush/wide fitments, they have had a handful of folks identify these misaligned subframes. I have also at least septuple-checked my rear camber and spacing and also seem to have the same issue. Mine is a...

I’ll admit the ‘$600’ claim was more like $650 ($180 of that was installation at my house) for my last two sets. Most of my daily tires have averaged about $750-800 installed, either sorting by price and stopping at "good enough," or finding something on sale. Honestly it got easier for me to...

Pointedly, there are as many opinions on tires as there are… [universal mammalian body parts]. There are some new EV-specific tires that seem to get really impressive effiency, and the Michelin PS4S (summer) and PSAS4 (All-Season) are long-time favorites. That said, I daily drive on...

Honestly, the new car will be a bargain for anyone looking for a 10.X car that can drive itself while getting 100mpg as a daily commuter for 4.75 people :P .