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It actually was as those smaller packs were much closer to their advertised capacity than their bigger counterparts (85 or 90kWh).

Hello there, is it really an 85kWh pack? For such a big amount of charged MWh it's insanely good! Enjoy your pack! ;)

Yeah, went that way and can confirm it's working and the GREATEST upgrade I could do on my old 2015 S 85D. Now I'm enjoying my car even more, especially on road trips. One additional thing which comes to my mind is the added weight of the 100kWh battery, especially on cars with pack of only 14...

Nope, you have to actually disconnect the IC from MCU, connect PC to the MCU with the specific IP the IC is using to simulate it and then run the commands so the MCU "thinks" it comes from IC. Yeah, I have soldered three fakra - RJ45 cables, one connected to cable coming from MCU. Second to IC...

Yes, sure, I needed to proceed with louvers calibration and that was possible. I have even tried to delete DTCs, also without problem. The only problem is to get into Factory mode as I was told it's possible only after factory reset and seems to be true, I succeed right after it.... If you guys...

Hi guys, also wanted a toolbox access on my old model S with MCU1. Yes, it is true, you have to downgrade to v11 2022.8.10.5 as on newer versions the diag port is blocked. Nevertheless the downgrade process is quite simple.. For the Toolbox installation I have contacted Alex1972 from, he has a...

Hmm, maybe you're right, sorry ... I have also assembled it in opened position. The fact is, there's probably a feedback potentiometer which can spin only in defined range.... at least this kind of assembly is used in the 3 and 4-way valve so I believe it will be the same in this kind of...

Power uses Watt or kiloWatt units. "kWh" is unit used for energy amount - how much energy have you charged for example. Regarding your problem, if you're sure the battery was warm enough, I'd try different Sch... Maybe it's the nowadays quite famous "hot handle" problem? Then try to bring wet...

Yeah, I believe when the assembly itself is mechanically ok, then there's only a little probability the actuator is bad. So if all of the assemblies are ok, the car should resynch it itself. If not, then the faults will remain. I believe similar problem might be the 3 and 4-way valves.. This is...

You didn't even mention which car do you have. If it's anything before 2016, then there's real risk the battery might allow moisture to get inside even you have no error codes yet. So it's hard to say. If it's later year, then you should be probably OK. You might also try to enter the Service...

What do you need, just to calculate the actual BMS reported available capacity? This is possible via simple calculation, see here. If you need more info, then you'd need ie SMT tool or other..

Also facing this error nowadays. In my opinion it's not serious as it's also not displayed outside service menu, but it might influence charging speed. I have replaced the 3-way bypass valve recently, but the fault is still there, it will probably need some diag command to perform calibration...

Yes, it doesn't matter as the system initiates some test-round probably each time you get into the car, plug the charging cable in, etc.. So it learns then the border positions itself. There's also one remark I have made as it seems the system will clear all of the faults once when all of the 4...

Hi all, lettin you know as I have some news regarding louvers. Over this this week I have replaced coolant radiator, then (probably) faulty 3-way radiator bypass valve (but the fault still remains there) and also had look at the radiator shutters. And guess what, both had broken axle pin or hiw...

Was the eMMC chip replaced for the 64GB one? Might be this case...

Also have this feeling. When it shows around 6/8 stalls free it was actually 4/8 free. When I connected and started charging the number became correct.. And yes, I did refreshed reading on the dash before I came there.. weird.. But also have the feeling when the site is almost full or entirely...

Weird as they claim to have few pieces on stock...

Hi Artur, yes, very satisfied, so far all working ok. Do you have a quote from them? If yes, can you share it? Did you also check event. quote from evclinic.eu from Croatia in case they also do such upgrades? Thx for the info, wish you luck!

There's definitely something wrong with your pack or with the heating element. Because if not, even charging of cold soaked pack shouldn't take hours, but let's say 1 - 1,5hour. Free SuC has nothing to do with it, I have upgraded my 85D to 100D and still see charging rate starting at up to140kW...

Sorry, unfortunately no video... it was sticky PITA job and was glad I finally succeeded somehow.. Next time I'd remove the glass the same way using a thin wire, but I'd be more careful when soaking the LCD in alcohol. I'd use maybe some rag to soak the alcohol into first and then to put the...

Mileage+supercharging isnt that big problem. Even leaving the car fully charged or other bad practice wouldn't kill the battery instantly, it would just degrade it faster. Problem is bad design of umbrella valves, pyrofuse cover or others which alows moinsture to occur inside the battery. Only...

You can easily block it :D

@airborne spoon Sorry to hear that and I'm quite shocked as I supposed the 100s to be more robust... Mine has done +-30kkm since the upgrade and so far so good... Also really surprised Tesla is talking to you! I wouldn't go there with my 100 upgraded car :D Nevertheless I totally got your point...

Ok, it probably depends on which SW version you are. And I thought it is a feature for MCU2 and newer versions, so maybe it's not the case. So then there's only one option - to drive slowly (around 90kph) till you're close to zero enough to be precise. You can watch Bjorn Nyland's videos on YT...

Sure, check this. Your BTX6 100kWh battery was like 97kWh usable when new, so you can easily calculate it. Nevertheless, the most precise way is to fully charge it and then discharge to zero because the BMS numbers can be off the reality depending on the use of the car.. EDIT: And for your car...

U're welcome ;) I plan to keep it here permanently as it always can be practical. And I have added a 120A connection between the frunk and car itself, so I can remove the frunk quite quickly when needed. The connection is done of course that way the fuse will trip if anything bad happens ;) And...

Guys sorry, I'm not good at video making and also I'm in a big lack of time nowadays, so glad I did at least the connection. Nevertheless will try to explain as much as I can do. Unfortunately I didn't quickly find any existing video on YT, only have two pics. Here you can see where to...

I think that high-amp point it's actually much better accessible in refresh model S, it should be in one of the boxes just between the frunk and front window or not? In preface you have to disassemble the cabin air intake box and the 12V busbar is located under it. You can pull I believe up to...

Not to 12V batt cause it's fused I'm not sure, 60A maybe? So I'm on the main 12V busbar, just behind the 225A fuse going from DCDC. This way the DCDC can support the load as well as the battery does. It actualy does, you just have to turn it horizontaly ;)

Pre-face S 100D :D see my signature ;)

Hi guys, over this weekend I have hooked up my 1500W pure sin Mean Well inverter on to my Tesla. Works great it's even capable of charging my mom's Zoe at 8A setting on the WB which made the inverter to run at 100% of it's power :D Nevertheless for such high permanent loads it's seems to be...

@Recell It's great info and good to know there's finally a tool for an eventual buyer which can make you sure it was or was not manipulated with the errors...

Yeah - you have figured it yourself or? Cause I did several soft resets, didn't help...tried to do whatever, wifi re-connection, tried TuneIn, all the other services worked... So was really confused what happened... Thx once again ;)

You should be able to buy it separately - independently on the car issue.. If they're compatible with the car and are on stock of course ...

Cracking sounds from the radiator ones you mean? Maybe it's woth to try it out... Mine are working smoothly but throwing the errors... Not sure when I will focus on it as I have other more urgent tasks on the car and very little time... will inform then..

Hi, thanks a lot!! Was exactly my issue and was really upset :D Thank to you I have solved it!

For the condenser shutters it worked, so they started to open when they should and also faults have disappeared..for the radiator ones it don't work, faults still there..

Hi, thanks a lot for such extensive info on this. As 1500$ is probably not worth the benefit I'd say most of us will stick just experimenting with TB2 or adding some mechanical "upgrades" which might avoid the error triggering. For me the TB2 procedures helped just to the condenser shutters, not...

I believe there certainly is a way if you will simulate the LIN signals properly using ie Arduino or similar ucontroller. Nevertheless I thing the problem is a Tesla bug and if the actuators aren't physically damaged, then it will be most likely on the SW side of the car.

Whaat? You say guys that Tesla triggered new nerfing on 85s packs? I stopped sw updates on the version where I can open the diag port but would be very sad if they send it also to 100packs...And what Im also wondering about, why would they do that on packs which are out of warranty now....safety?

Yes, it's kind of weird, especially if the battery was warm enough. Can you use the SMT tool? Would be good to see whether the cells are balanced enough. You might try to let it sit at 100% long enough to let the BMS do its job..maybe it might be better then.. I'd also monitor the charging...

I can add that driving with my MS 85D upgraded to 100kWh, with temps around -5°C, highway driving at 115kph + big 650l cargo box on the roof results in +-300Wh/km :) Enjoy the winter in your Teslas, guys, what an experience is that!

Yes... now everything working as expected, driving on RM ON and no heating of battery... will have an eye on it nevertheless and try to find out if anything apart SCh can trigger it under RM... But what's quite of surprising for me, even when I'm mostly doing short distances while no hammering...

Really weird...now I entered the car parked in underground garage, current batt temp little bit over 8degC and in SMT I see this with Range mode on: And this with RM off: In both cases the heater didn't turn on. The only thing which came to my mind is the fact, that I always run the navi due...

Ok, would be great to know ;) Thx in advance for that..

Are those values valid for your P100D? Then I'd suppose it might be valid also for 100D as it's the same pack...

So Target bat active heat seems to be the problem... it's set way too high...would probably need to change the thermal profile...

Interesting... seems to be at least worth to try it out! Do you think it's also the case for the RCCM and maybe other actuators which often throws faults?

I see "100D" on the dash... but the truth is I have read or heard that I might have installed some bad temperature profile in the car, is that possible? I have also read in some article that 100kWh battery is much more sensitive to temperature in regard of fast charging which actually in my case...