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AWD is quicker, it’s significant. It will also be more reliable as it has the smaller rear drive unit. The larger ones are known to fail often.

Yes

I think the seller is themselves bidding up the price from another account. According to auction history, the car was already “sold on approval” 2 times for $5600. But hey you can try selling it, just keep in mind every potential buyer will know it probably needs a new battery.

I’m have been told by Tesla that they give a $500 discount when MCU2 upgrade is done together with the FSD computer upgrade. They also mentioned that FSD will be available on MCU1 in the future (but I doubt it’s a high priority for them).

$500-2000, depending on which one it is and what’s wrong with it. electricsauto.com

We are located in South Carolina and this is our pricing with installation (if we keep old battery as core): * Model 3/Y 75kwh - $6,500 * Model 3/Y LFP or 82kwh $7,500 * Model S/X 100kwh $11,500 (These are only batteries we have in stock right now). Batteries come from wrecked cars and each...

I have sent you a PM.

This thread is for the general discussion of the marketplace listing 2023 Model 3 RWD 32K, salvage title. Please add to the discussion here.

This marketplace listing has been removed.

This thread is for the general discussion of the marketplace listing 2023 Tesla model 3, 32K miles, salvage title. Please add to the discussion here.

Insurance should cover the damages, but definitely not the car manufacturer, not even if the car was under warranty still.

+1 you will need a brand new MCU.

Join this Discord server for help: https://discord.gg/DJHApVbk

No need, the car balances at all SOC levels when it’s not charging.

Insurance will be the same generally. Salvage cars don’t have warranty (similar to how an older car is out of warranty after a certain amount of miles). Taxes in some states may be cheaper. Supercharging is often disabled until inspection with Tesla is passed. Banks often don’t give out...

We have disassembled both types of batteries and the LFP pack is just a better newer simpler design. All cell connections are on the top, so internal cooling leak won’t damage the cells. There are much fewer cells and connections, so fewer things to break. Cooling is on the bottom of the...

When Elon was selling those shares he was assuming that the compensation plan would go through, allowing him to get his 25% stake back. So no contradiction here.

Can you post a link where the case can be purchased?

Yes, there are third-party shops around. We run one here in South Carolina (Electrics Auto). Newer Teslas are actually easier to work on and better supported than the older Teslas, BTW.

Better to buy an older model 3 with high miles if you want a beater Tesla, IMO

Anyone replace just the front shocks? I have a 2020 model Y here where we installed newer (F version) front shocks as we were doing suspension work on it already, and it seems like it feels better than most 2020's I have driven. I imagine the H version will be even softer. If anyone is...

That's insane. Thanks for sharing.

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If the isolation issue is on the "outer" side of contactors, it will show up as external isolation issue even if the problem is "inside the battery". I'd imagine this is quite rare, but theoretically possible.

Yes model Y consoles are the same. PM me we have some doe sale. Also separately from the USB module, older console 2.0 have a usb wire for data but newer ones do not FIY. So you need one with a cable if USB data is important to keep.

I have one model Y with this issue right now, wondering if anyone found a way to resolve the issue with the draft / air leak? I'm guessing it's coming from the door(s) areas. Thanks

What is your application? Solar storage? Cheapest will be some long modules from 3/Y packs that were damaged. But you need lots of hardware to get them wired up safely. It's best to buy a complete back that has a little damage on the casing, easier to wire when used with HV 400V inverters.

This thread is for the general discussion of the marketplace listing Tesla service in South Carolina. Please add to the discussion here.

Not OP, but I have cut apart LFP batteries before into 48V and smaller modules. I also worked with an EV conversion shop that has done the same. Also, see this new thread for how Tesla 3 and Y batteries can now be used for solar storage...

This controller is designed to emulate 400V BYD batteries, and works with high voltage inverters that support them. For a list of supported high voltage inverters, see: https://github.com/dalathegreat/Battery-Emulator/wiki#supported-inverters-list

(originally mentioned in Vendor - Tesla Model S Battery Extended Service Plans from 057 Technology) For anyone interested, there is now a new open source project that allows using Tesla model 3 and Y (as well as S and X and other car batteries) with 400V inverters, for solar storage...

I'd bet one of the long 10mm bolts that hold the chargport is loose (it creates a ground bond between the car body and the charge port).

You need a new charge port ECU and a "bundle of wires" retrofit cable.

I have only noticed difference in responsiveness. Everything just feels quicker on it. Also it boots up significantly faster (maybe twice as fast?).

You can start a new thread where I can post more details about this open source project, lets keep this thread on topic.

yes

Thank you but it’s not something I want to do on a large scale nor do I want to advertise it. I build the kits only to include them in batteries that I sell. Join the Discord group for that project to learn how to build the controller yourself if you find it interesting.

You need to replace the vcfront also. The do software reinstall while powering the car from a 14V power supply that can handle 40amps or more.

Model 3/Y batteries can now be used for solar storage with HV inverters, thanks to this awesome open source project: https://github.com/dalathegreat/Battery-Emulator I build and sell controller kits that are pre-wired for Tesla batteries.

I believe this is a way if the car showing that the software update did not complete successfully. That’s the only time when I have seen this issue, on multiple cars now.

likely totaled IMO

If anyone has similar issues and is located not far from South Carolina, PM me, we can help.

Where are you at? We charge $700-900 for rear subframe replacement, labor. Part will cost about $1,000. Assuming your car doesn’t need any other work.

Yes and very newest long range model 3s are also LFP.

We have a shop in Inman, SC: https://maps.app.goo.gl/D4e6E46UwmJqqCpLA We are still ramping up, planning to move to a better location closer to Greenville next year. PM me with any questions or for a quote.

Yes there are a few things to try, but with newer firmware you don’t need to do anything special anymore. As long as the contactors close, the car should reconnect the LV battery and start charging it. I recommend updating to the latest available software version.

That won’t work because service mode doesn’t load if load shed is active, you need to run the procedure from the computer toolbox UI.

Yes.

I believe the standard range model Ys have the 2170 Panasonic cells, just like the long range. For now.