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Well, *sugar*. This happened like 3 weeks after I had started my insurance policy with this insurer. I'm wondering if I'll be dropped upon renewal.

I think THIS is what happened. The driver is claiming he was driving on the main road, but that is not true. I swear I remember switching lanes to the left, I was firmly in the left lane, and the other driver hit my driver's side door Edit: the tricky part is my lane change. I need to switch...

One of the local businesses didn't have footage :/ the camera that points to where the accident occurred is not working

Yes, I'm going to one tomorrow, and one on Thursday. That can't wait.

My car insurance's safe driving app shows that I was *not* driving on the road that yields to traffic in the drive that led to the accident. So I don't think the police report can be trusted. I could not think clearly at the time the accident occurred. I've passed on that info to my insurance...

I already took ot to the shop, and now the shop just needs to get approval from my insurance to start on repairs. They said repairs wouldn't take long, but they do need to order a bunch of parts.

Ok... so what happens from here? Big insurance rate increases?

I'm being accused of being at fault, and the police report supports that... they're claiming same direction sideswipe, that I failed to yield

I wasn't able to recover the footage, since my USB was basically full. The earliest footage I could recover was from a couple hours after the accident. If I had removed the USB from the vehicle, instead of letting it record all throughout the weekend, I could have recovered the footage. However...

When my vehicle is repaired, is there anything I need to look over? Things like, 1) making sure the door mechanism locks and opens properly, like right before the accident, 2) making sure there is no excessive road noise due to poorly fitting replacement door, 3) alignment checked just to make...

Btw, just a quick follow up. The ER thought my injuries were not serious. I don't even have a seatbelt bruise. That is pretty crazy how the car did its job.

I already dropped off my vehicle at the body shop, so I can't really go get it until I get a rental vehicle later next week

Hey OP, how did things turn out for you? I just went through something similar...

I have it enabled, but I forgot that you need to do that to save the clips Edit: I talked to my insurance adjuster and let them know what happened. They basically said that the other driver is most likely at fault. Their vehicle was only damaged on the front bumper and RH front fender.

I was driving on the left hand lane (since I was just about to turn left), and a driver was pulling out of the nearby gas station but did not stop. The driver hit my vehicle's driver's side door head-on. Unfortunately, I don't have any sentry footage to share. I couldn't get into my vehicle for...

I didn't get an alignment yet, but I'll probably have to get one soon... I just got into a collision today

(See picture) The LH rear tire looks like it's stanced? I did hit a pothole with my right tires, and I can see the scratches on the rims, but... how would that damage the left wheel? And yes, I just set up an appointment with Firestone tomorrow to check my vehicle's alignment. Just wondering...

Y It's just tires. As long as the shop is comfortable with lifting a Tesla, this is something they should be able to do. (They'll probably ask for the lifting pucks.)

How is the stopping distance compared to the OEM Continental ProContacts?

Here we go. They're not the exact angle, but you can kinda tell the difference in curvature. First pic is post-damage. Second Pic is "before." ... I kind of don't want this car anymore.

I don't have the numbers - I just know that they're off compared to normal tesla model 3 specs. Yeah, too bad these things cannot be adjusted. I honestly don't know what would improve if I ever got them fixed. Most likely, I'll just wait until my vehicle needs a suspension replacement and then...

The first one would have been the exact same experience with other insurers, and the last ones from 2019-2020 aren't really relevant, since they sound like they're from when Tesla Insurance was starting to establish presence in the state. If you own a Tesla, you *need* great rental vehicle...

I've had my car aligned multiple times at several different shops (Tesla, Firestone in TX and VA, and a specialty alignment shop in the DMV area). The first time, the Firestone tech from TX asked me if I was in a collision, since my car's measurements were really strange. Tesla and the VA...

You sound like someone who worries about warranty and repairs, so, yeah, definitely don't buy a 100k+ miles model 3, especially not a former rental.

This is really weird. Hopefully it gets resolved in future model years.

Yup, like little shadows over the paint. I have a bunch on my front bumper. It was weird not knowing what they were, so I kept trying to clean them off until I realized that was just etched paint, lol

Leave it garaged. I would only leave the vehicle street parked with sentry on, but you can't do that long term. Reason is that you don't want to come back to a side-swiped vehicle and have no dashcam/sentry footage.

Idk if the clear coat is gone. Etched bugs look like this: https://www.reddit.com/r/Detailing/s/uSMVpSSY96

It works, but it would take longer than your method

OP has a 2022 model 3, so chances are high this vehicle is already covered in rock chips and etched bugs. Detailers could try to paint correct, but the result won't be OEM.

Bug removal products strip off protective wax, so you have to reapply *something*

Yeah, etched paint isn't terrible. It is what it is. Next time we'll be better prepared with PPF the next time we buy a new Tesla :)

5 weeks is fine as long as you keep sentry off. If you ever need to take your car to a body shop for repairs (after a collision, or simply to do a paint job), this is more or less how long your car would remain unplugged.

That is a new car checklist. Your car will be used, so it will inevitably have cosmetic imperfections and other wear and tear. I would assume this vehicle has some curb rash and other things you normally wouldn't see in a new car. Like, if we were talking about a new car, I would honestly even...

Also, you have to reapply wax. So you're basically washing your entire bumper... every day. For me, that would look like: rinse -> spray bug remover -> pick off bugs -> apply ONR -> dry

Dryer sheets for bug removal is... interesting. I use one of those microfiber mesh towels that kind of folds like a glove. The mesh picks up the bugs pretty easily. Pair it up with a bucket with dirt guards, and you're golden...

What makes more sense to me is spray the bumper with bug and tar remover. Let the bug remover sit for 5-10 mins. Then, with a specialized bug mesh sponge, pick off the bugs one by one. You're not supposed to scrub the bugs off, since that will just scratch your paint. You kind of want the bond...

Those bugs are probably already etched on the clear coat. I have a bunch like that on my car's front bumper. One way is to try with conpound and polish, but that might not work. Really, the only permanent solution is a respray. I'd say just let it be and live with it if you couldn't remove the...

No sudden loss of pressure in the tire

Tight parking garage, heard a thunk while trying to turn. Anything I should worry about? Rim is mostly OK, just two little scratches, but the tire got this weird spot I don't notice anything off with the alignment/suspension - car drives exactly the same as before I hit the curb

You're probably the ideal candidate for this trade-in/end of quarter promotion. Bought when the vehicle qualified for the tax credit and had a bunch of inventory discounts. I would heavily discourage anyone from using this trade in promo for a new model 3 highland, since your car's resale value...

There's something wrong with the 2024 model 3s. Owners in Spain and Germany have reported similar issues. Nobody really knows knows why this is happening.

Holy *sugar*. They really should have totaled that vehicle. I was getting offered $24k for my 2023 SR by KBB, and that was a couple months ago.

That's insane value. Honestly, that car has way less miles than my 2023 rwd, which I bought new and now has 20k miles... There isn't much that can go wrong in these vehicles. If you really want to nitpick, check the plastic cover of the rocker panels. Sometimes, the clips of that plastic cover...

I'm very excited to put some MPP sport coilovers on my model 3 RWD once I finally need to replace the stock suspension around 80-100k miles Edit: still got like 60k miles to go

Dude, if I said my honest thoughts about you, I'd probably get banned from this forum Idk how tight the mods are here, but you sound like the kind of guy that people hate interacting with

I've driven the 4 cyl mustang V6 challenger, and even a kia stinger base model. My model 3 SR is more "fun" to drive than those. Now, you could make the argument that we need to compare, say a Mustang GT, Challenger Scat Pack, or Stinger GT2. Then you'd also want to compare to a Tesla Model 3...

It's not that - there's no point in engaging with whatever you're saying.

Just as pointless as your original comment:

And you can argue all that you want about the moose test not being official/legit, at the end of the day it's a very practical way to figure out how well the vehicle handles under an extremely plausible real world scenario.