Does anyone have recommendations for a Model 3 wireless charger retrofit for the 2017 Long Range (we have one of the first 1,000 made)?

After doing some reading, it looks like Taptes Gen 1 (Amazon.com) and Gen 2 (https://www.amazon.com/TAPTES-Wirel...ones-Compatible/dp/B08936DH4Q?ref_=ast_sto_dp) are the main two options at this point.

I would normally got with a Gen 2, but I've read some people have had problems with the Gen 2 on earlier long range models.

Any thoughts / recommendations? Just looking for something that will just reliably work.

Hi,

The last few days I have noticed my December 2019 (50k miles and out of basic warranty) M3P fan on a bit more than normal. I have however used superchargers driving in Europe a lot so maybe a coincidence.

On the latest stop I thought I'd look at the temps via service mode and found the attached errors.

I have read through and see the 5 way valve appears to a fairly common issue on 2018 models but assume not on this late a model?

My friend then saw a load water droplets coming out the back of the car ( have a video if handy). It could have been water that had been sitting but likeways something related / more serious. Hopefully not.

Shall I just book it into a service centre and take the hit or are there some simple steps first? I don't mind replacing the valve myself if it is likely to be that but do worry if there is something more sinister with batteries Tesla may try blame my handy work.

Battery performance and range seem to be fine so far.

Any help would be massively appreciated

I have ABS and ESP issues on my Model S 2015. The last 6 months I had error codes sporadically. See attached pictures for all codes.


It started for 6 months ago with error codes just for a few days and then it worked for some weeks. Especially in the mornings after a night with moisture. And then more frequently error codes was occurring. After driving in heavy rain it worked for almost two months without error codes. Then the error codes came back.

Measured front abs sensors and left sensor showed 5,8 MOhm. Right sensor showed 1,3kOhm. Decided to order a new abs sensor for left side.

When new abs sensor (Febi Bilstein) arrived it showed 9.0 MOhm. Decided then to replace left abs sensor front as this showed 1,3 kOhm. This did not work.

Ordered one more sensor and replaced also abs sensor right side front. That did also not work.

Now I have measure also the rear abs sensors and they show around 9 MOhm both sides. I also measured the contacts in the car and all four contacts shows around 0,9 MOhm.

After I replaced the first abs sensor the error codes does not disappear. I start to believe that my new front abs sensors (Febi Bilstein) makes the error. I also tried to turn the wheel and measure AC voltage but it’s not possible to get any reading at any position.

I do have diagonistic cable ethernet, but no access to Toolbox.

Could the error codes be caused by the ECU for ABS or the new abs sensors or should I go for replacing the rear abs sensors as well?

Any help forward would be highly appreciated!

OK, I need help. I have a 2021 M3P and subscribed to the monthly Premium Connectivity for the audio, which I've been receiving since purchasing the car. Recently I had to cancel the debit card and replace it with another. I lost the Premium Connectivity feature. And, when I go in to access my account in the car, it prompts me for my Tesla email and password. I've done this repeatedly and get the same response that it's unable to access it and to try later. What's going on? I've tried to address this in my Tesla mobile app, but can't find any reference to it.

Thanks to anyone with suggestions.

Since some of the original 85 kWh packs are starting to fail, and generally the failure is just in one brick in one module. Does anyone know how hard it would be to remove 2 modules from the 16 module pack. Leaving them out of the penthouse essentially creating a 75kwh pack that you could continue to drive on? What hardware, or software changes are required.

So I just got the email to order my cybertruck but don't want foundation series... what's the process to hold off until the normal versions ship without cancelling my order entirely? Service and sales phone nobody answers and the order page has no option to hold off on foundation series.

Hi Guys,

Got a 2016.5 Model S that I'd like a chrome delete on. The cheapest quote I've gotten on this in TX is $1100+!

Call me cheap or insert any other derogatory adjective here if you like, but I wonder, have you guys used any of these pre-cut kits like Tesbros?:


If so, I have a couple of questions:

1. If you did it, is the final outcome so horrible that you regret it and be willing to pay $1000 to get it done professionally?
2. If you did it, did you have any experience with work like this? If yes or no, how would you describe it? Steep learning curve? I would describe myself as very patient and if I do one trim piece a day, I don't care, as long as I do it right .
3. Did you do it in a clean, absolutely dust free garage? If not, how bad was it? I intend to do a wash and then an alcohol swipe on each piece before installing.
4. Anything else you'd advise?
5. What kit did you use, link?
6. Can you share any pictures?

Appreciate your inputs!

I spotted what looks like a sizeable DCFC under construction today at 20090 Langley Bypass, Langley, BC.

The red rectangle on the map screenshot is the fenced area.

I can’t seem to find this filter for 2016?
I see 2017 all over EBay etc…

I need to change my drive unit fluid as I passed 100k miles

Another Supercharger coming to Richmond, BC currently under construction thanks to @BrianDolbec and @DriveTeslaca on X.
Appears to be 20 stalls.

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@Big Earl @Guacahummus @corywright

I have read lot of information about this topic related to model Y.
My question is specific to 2023 M3 which Tesla recommends to fully charge to 100% once a week.
My car will be in the garage for 3 weeks during my vacation (fully charged before I go on vacation).
I have seen it loosing 1% per week on a previous 2 weeks out of town.
Three weeks would cause the battery to lose 3%. Not a big deal I guess,
This time, I will leave it plugged in, schedule it to charge to 80%., starting at midnight (for lowest electricity rate, in California).
My guess charging will never happen as the SoC would be close to 100% , way above 80%.
On my 11-th day of vacation, I will schedule it to charge to 100% to comply with the recommendation.
I will set a security camera pointing to the Wall Connector so I can watch the light showing charging in progress (for my own curiosity and entertainment).
I know this is unnecessary as the APP shows that too. It would be fun to see that as If I am at home.

Please let me know if there is anything wrong with this plan.

Anyone else seeing the steering wheel wrap lift/peel?
If so what did you do to fix or repair?

The Rozelle Interchange in Sydney opened on 26 November 2023, and I'm now typing this in May 2024, half a year later. While you can see the tunnels on the map, Tesla still doesn't know how to drive through them: every time I do, navigation freaks out and repeatedly tells me to turn left/right through the tunnel wall into surface streets, and I can't use TACC/Autosteer either because it's getting the wrong speed limits from those surface roads, not the tunnel.

Is everybody else in the same boat, and if yes, is there any way to direct feedback to Tesla about this? Driving a Model 3 with the latest update.

I didn't find a thread about these tires for Model S, so I'm going to start one.

Hi everyone, I’ve had my phone set key up for months now without an issue. Recently it won’t connect to my phone anymore. So I have to use the key card to get into the vehicle as well as put the key card on the center console to drive the vehicle. If I close the app completely and re open it multiple times eventually it will say phone key connected. I’ve tried deleting the key and re adding it but still same issue. Does anyone have suggestions so I can’t get it to go back to being more consistent thanks!

I park in attached garage with sentry mode off and never open the app to wake the car up but sometimes I lose 2 to 3 percent battery over the span of several hours, all in vehicle standby. In one stance the car was plugged in. I haven't figured out a pattern as to why this happens.

Any explanations or suggestions? Thanks!

Hello, I have the issue with the camber on the rear wheels on my MS 85 2015 (Rear motor version).

After the motor service (the subframe was removed, as well as upper suspension arms) and reassembly, I faced the issue of enormous rear tire wear on the inner side. On the photo - this is what happened after ~2500km. I never had such problems before, with the same upper arms and all other parts.

It looks like there is no "official" way of how to align the rear camber, and the factory spec value for it is -1.35, which I find very strange. The rear toe is fine aligned and in specs.

What could be a solution, except buying a custom upper adjustable arms? It is very strange for me that after the rebuild the issue appeared, even though all parts are the same and aligned.

And if there is no other way - what should be the value for the rear camber in case of adjustable arms?

Tesla installed Solaredge inverter/optimizers at the end of 2020. I mentioned to Tesla in 2022 that 1 of the optimizer failed but refused to acknowledge it. When my inverter failed in Oct 2023, it took Tesla 6 months to finally replace the inverter. When the tech couldn't pair the failed optimizer, they finally acknowledge the failure. Solaredge optimizers have a 25 year warranty but Tesla is saying that the optimizers are not cover by their warranty. Tesla is trying to issue me a home improvement agreement to replace the optimizer. Since Tesla still haven't produce the agreement, I don't know if they are trying to charge me for the optimizer or labor.

Did anyone have their Solaredge optimizer failed and replaced by Tesla? If so, was it cover under warranty or you had to pay for the repair?

I am going to be picking up a new model Y soon. but I am confused why invoice shows that base price is 34000, where as on the tesla website it shows as 47990, and rear wheel drive is 42990.

I am asking here to see if other tesla owners had similar invoice experience or is it just my tesla dealer manipulating something potentially in preparation to another price cut may be upcoming and so probably they don't need to honor that cut if I sign the agreement with another price and pick-up after price cut happens or something..

Just curious since it seems so many of us got the free 30-day FSD trial.

I have a Model Y on order and I'm going to be lifting it and adding slightly taller tires (currently thinking 55r18) to deal with snow and fire roads. I ski and mountain bike a lot and both of these are pretty common use cases for me. I've found some brethren on here that have done similar things but I'd love to hear how it's going after lifting. Do you regret the lift? Do you have issues with the taller profile tires with respect to navigation for example due to speedometer error? How bad has your efficiency hit been?



Picture for context on the kind of day I'd love to still be able to do with the Y. My 20 year old manual subaru outback is a champ with snow tires on, hoping the Model Y can take it's place after a lift + tires.

i bought my model 3 in aug 2018. After the software upgrade I only got 316 miles when charged to 100%. Last night I got only 312 miles from 5% SOC to 100%. A 4% degradation within 10 months? Have others degraded similarly?

Just went to the car show and then the tesla store, I'm noticing some big changes in 2024 Model Y vs 2023 Model Y namely:

1. Trunk felt liner is now all the way to shoulder part where you put the trunk lid and goes into the sides of the backseat. This potentially reduces the tinny sound, and also definitely fixes the seat belt issue where it clangs on the side plastic.
2. Middle seat is completely redesigned, the middle headrest is now super stiff, and cannot go up more than 2 clicks. It now clicks and locks down rather than in the 2023 where it just floats. The middle seat also is super stiff and stuck into the seat compared to the current loose version where you need to put electrical tape on the metal shaft to keep it in place.
3. They've also increased the diameter of the metal shaft that keeps the middle seat in place, which makes sense why it feels far sturdier than before.
4. Back seats also feel a lot more firm, rather than feeling flimsy. I am able to shake my back seat in 2023 whereas in 2024, I am unable to even make it move.
5. the 2 rubber pieces on bottom of the trunk are now far smaller, and wider apart, not sure what this means from a design point of view but they seem to be better. Trunk also closes far more quiet than the 2023 model

I'm guessing a vast majority of rattle will be fixed in the 2024 Model Y, can owners please respond and see if they've noticed a big difference?

Not a single news or forum has brought this up. It seems like a huge update to fix rattling issues.

It’s been a while since I test drove a Model Y. With the drop in price I’m thinking about it again. I remember I felt like the bolsters stabbed my butt and I’ve read people have modified the cushion of the seat to correct the stabbing. Have the seats changed at all? And does anyone know how wide the seat is? I can just get another seat pad if I know the size. Thx.