Can you guys teach me the steps of MY20 Model 3 (US built) how to install 2024.14.3 new update, I am in Melbourne, AUSTRALIA

I used to love my car, a 2019 dual motor M3. In 5 years it has had no mechanical issues. But.. I have had quite the experience with collision costs and headaches. A few months after I took delivery, I was hit by a drunk driver at 6am. The car drove away, but it was in the auto body shop for 6 months. It was a great day when it was returned to me. Here are some things I appreciate... always entering a 72 degree cabin, whether summer or winter. It's great in the snow. Love 1 foot driving. Now the stuff that's making be rethink things, as told through a recent experience. Last week an old lady bumped me. Literally a fender bender. I took it to an authorized Tesla auto body shop. One headlight may have some damage. The headlights, as I learned, are held in place with plastic tabs. One headlight is perfectly functional, however, a plastic tab has broke. I'll need a pair of new headlights, at a cost of just north of three thousand dollars. Add the remainder of the repair costs and I am at eight thousand. While we are talking about "cons" of the car, I've always appreciated a quiet car. If you drive a M3, you know it isn't quiet. The firm ride I have to take responsibility for ignoring when I bought the car, but it's too firm for me. Every road bump transfers kinetic energy through the headrest to my occiput. My head is in constant motion when driving, and I don't like that! Anyway, I may use this recent fender bender as an excuse to find a new car. I have my sights on a Lexus es300h. Its high points, for me, are cushy ride and quiet cabin. Can anyone relate to my experience are do I come across as less than relatable?

For my Model 3, I easily found an AC intake grill to stop leaves and what not getting in, and also a front bumper intake mesh for the same purpose. For the Plaid, which has the same "issues", there are no solutions. How come?

Hi all - I posted this on Reddit and it was pretty controversial… however… I feel like I want to share it here as well to see what others are experiencing. Full disclosure, I did not take photographs because I was focused on the checklist and going over the car with my wife.

My story:
After years of saving up for a Tesla... and the recent price cuts, I went all in on a MYP. Yesterday (4/4/24) was delivery day. Everything was ready, I sold my car, I arrived for my appointment and began looking over the car. Immediately noticed that there were significant panel gaps (I thought this was solved), the bumper wasn't set correctly, the windshield was all pinched to one side. There was a giant gouge in the driver mirror and a ding in the rear driver door. Before I even sat inside the car l refused it.


Stay vigilant, teslas production issues are still a real thing. I've read the stories but never thought it could happen to me. I should have taken pictures but I didn't feel the need to because it was so obvious the car deserved rejection. The manager even agreed.


To make matters worse, now I'm carless and I live in a state Tesla is not legally able to deliver cars so l have to drive 1.5 hours to get to the nearest center. They were unwilling to give me a loaner because that is for 'service only'. Not a great start to the Tesla world.

Hi, can anyone give me their thoughts on these two options here for a 2023 Used Model Y?

I like that both have FSD, and I think they should have Hardware 4 since they are 2023, but obviously I will ask.

I guess my biggest question is the wheels...am I right that 21' wheel will not ride as comfortably as the 19"?

I am a newbie to Tesla so if there is something(s) am I not considering or anything I should keep in mind, please let me know.

Thanks,

Justin

I have posted this on another post but didn’t get many response. I am wondering whether people who are on IO and/or recently switched to IO can provide any suggestions.

The background story is, I recently switched to IO and when I first did a test charge it didn’t stop. I had to manually stop that in the app. Though it created a schedule the car didn’t charge during that period. IO kept creating new schedule but it didn’t charge the car. I thought probably an error.

But again I connected today, the same. The car started charging and I had to stop using Tesla app. I switched off the toggle tab in octopus to stop smart charging and switched back on. Then it brought the charging schedule. Now hoped the car will charge again tonight at the scheduled time. But it didn’t. I have to start the charge again. So I created the trigger from Podpoint to charge atleast at the off peak just to avoid any peak tariff. I was hoping this will trigger the charge but will stick to IO schedule. But it didn’t. So any suggestions from people?

I have signed out and signed back in the app. I have not removed the device and should I do that? If it doesn’t charge tonight (I am not confident) I may have to inform Octopus.

I’ve seen on another post about just using Podpoint to trigger the charging at the off peak and then leaving IO schedule to continue. I tried that yesterday but it didn’t follow the IO schedule. It just continued with the off peak tariff time of 1130-530.

There are few issues:
- GPS location in Tesla app always identifies neighbours door number. I have just done the edit and will wait whether Google adds my house number.

- I have ambitiously set up some automations - set charge to 90% during weekends and 63% during weekdays. Whether that bit is causing any issues with octopus schedule I am not sure. Please let me know if you are aware of any conflicts with automations related to charging. @medved please comment given your expertise in automations.

This is after my four leg journey to London and back. As mentioned on my other post it was done on 65mph (three legs) and the final one on 55mph. I have to say the M11 was relatively free yesterday so no cars trying to overtake or no middle lane hogging from my side. I checked the Tesla app today after a charge and on 89% it showed 237 miles. Just checked my watch for Tesla app which predict based on recent driving and overrides Tesla app - that showed 365 miles on 89%. And I am about to hit the 400 miles on 100% charge target today for a RWD. Amazing if that is true but we all know how this will work out after a plain normal drive.

So I’ve been using the Tesla Pet liner in the Model3 for a while now which looks great and the dog seems to love it.

One part of it that I’m not so keen on is that the side parts which protect the side of the seats is often exposed after the dog (BlueHeeler) jumps in. I’m paranoid of scratching the seat or him putting a nail thru it.

Even if I tuck the material in, it pops back out, so here is how I fixed it. Note that I do have sill protectors fitted, it does feel like there is another lip under the seat you can use in the below process.

The problem:



The solution:

The pet liner has an edging around it with a hollow void. I used some 2.7mm whipper snipper line, you might get away with 3mm but it will be tight.

Measuring it up:


Now, I made an incision using a sharp knife on the back of the tubing. I did this about 10cm or so back from the end so that the line can’t pop back out



If you make sure that the end of the line doesn’t have any dags you can feed it inside the void.

When you get most of it in, double it back into itself to feed it the other way.



Then feed that line in and smooth it all over. You could put some superglue or something there but I didn’t bother.





Now, under the sill guards is a lip, so feed the line up under it and it seems to clip in. There is also a lip under the seat if you don’t have the sill guards but I haven’t tested that.



Happy dog, happy owner!



Any questions or suggestions feel free to comment below!

I think the sentiment of this article is on key, but details seem so wrong.


I always thought of WSJ as a reliable source.
- first LFP?
- $7500 tax credit in 272 mile range lease in 2024. Am I wrong here?
- 272 mile range for 2024? Didn’t that go up w new RWD model?

Those are items that jumped out to me, a November 2023 RWD buyer.

If I have a 2000 square-foot house and I’m only moving the router 15 feet further away from the powerwall which is outside on the side of the house, should I have an issue with the powerwall connecting? I am assuming my connection to Tesla is via the Internet connection of the powerwall to my router, correct yes?

Right now when I look at my Xfinity app the connection to Tesla says strong Wi-Fi.

The connection is to the powerwall itself is also what I’m asking? I know it’s a dumb question what else could it be connecting to but I just wanted to be sure.

I will be able to test it after I move it so I guess there’s no point in asking this I guess I am mostly just making sure I understand where the connection is that the powerwall is making it’s making it from the powerwall itself.

As per the title, it was a range test for my Model Y RWD. I had some work to sort out in East London but that needs me to go up and down twice or someone had to do the other part of the journey. I thought that is a good opportunity to do a range test and all set for the boring up and down journeys.

But there was an issue even before I started. As I mentioned earlier I was trying to switch from Octopus go to IG. There was some technical issue and octopus took their sweet time of 2 weeks to investigate. Anyhow they said they have sorted this out and wanted me to do the test charge. I did and this time it worked except the charge did not stop. I will do a separate post for this bit. I stopped using the app. I did get some charging schedules and I was hoping the car is going to connect and charge. But nothing happened. And it was 1am and I had this trip planned in the morning. I thought if this doesn’t work I’ll SC and then go to London. But fortunately woke up bit early and checked the app - car did not charge. Not sure what I am doing wrong with IO, I’ll do a separate post. But the smart schedule showed off peak from 530-8am. Not sure whether it was really off peak or not I went ahead and charged. Managed to top it up to 84%. My plan was if dangerously close to empty then to SC at birchanger services.

The temperature was around 16-17. There was a bit of shower both in London and on my way back. But otherwise generally a nice day not the Californian weather but Ok for UK.

Managed to do 216miles with 76% and did not stop at Birchanger for SC. I was 30 minutes behind time as was driving slow - especially the last leg was done on 55mph, finished the last leg with 16% consumption for the 54 miles/175 wh/miles. The total 42kwh/216miles/196wh/miles. As we all know speed has major impact on the range than anything else. The route is M11 and 6miles of East London traffic - not bad today.

If I extrapolate this to 100% it will be roughly around 270 miles that is more than the EPA and not in an experimental condition. All the three legs were done on 65mph except the last one which was done on 55mph part of the M11.

If I calculate it gives around 5.14 miles per kWh. Though Model Y RWD is limited by the small battery still is very practical and efficient.

I just subscribe to the monthly FSD subscription for $99. I assumed I was getting version 12 FSD but instead they downloaded the 11.4.9 beta which I’m not happy about to be honest. The thing drives horribly in the city will I ever get upgraded to 12 does anybody have an answer?

Does anyone know why my 2014 P85 started making this humming noise underneath the frunk?

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Hello, I have a 2022 M3 LR AWD. I have noticed that when I get up to speeds past 60 mph, I hear something flapping around. It feels almost like a skid plate on the bottom of the car is catching air or something. This only happens while I am on the freeway; when driving under 60 mph, there are no issues.
Could anyone shed some light on this? I've watched the online video explaining the odd pops and sounds you may hear from your Tesla, but this doesn't seem to match any of those. I'm eager to learn from your experiences and insights.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Not sure if this is a mistake or newly available configuration, but was browsing the Tesla website and saw this.

It seems to be the SR RWD US version which now has the software unlocked for the full 2170 battery pack capacity.

Bij het wegrijden (MY 2023) een knal geluid, alsof ik in een put reed.
Daarna direct de melding vermogen verlies en volgende screenshots. Doesn't look to good?

Iemand met eenzelfde ervaring?

So, it looks like my new M3 Performance (Highland) will be arriving off the boat in early June. Has anyone got an insurance quote yet?
When I do the normal compare websites, I assume that when it gives M3P as an option, it's the pre-highland model?
Thanks in advance! Chris.

topic says it all

had al vaker gemerkt dat het leasen van een tesla vrij duur is, waardoor werknemers vaak toch een ander merk kiezen. Iets met restwaarde enzo... ?
maar het is toch best frappant, ook als ik bij Tesla zelf kijk op de configurator, dat het verschil tussen financiële renting en leasing +/- 225 euro bedraagt voor een model 3. Bij renting kan je hem dan nadien nog voor een prikje overkopen (restwaarde 20% van de nieuwprijs).

Die 225 euro omvat dan wellicht de verzekering en het onderhoud, maar onderhoud is bijna niets bij een tesla en ik kan hem zelf verzekeren voor 94 euro per maand (nog nooit een ongeval in fout gehad op 20 jaar). Wegenbelasting is er ook al niet op een EV in België (zit normaal ook in de leasing verrekend).
Dus hoe kom je dan aan 225 euro?

What started as a very minor clicking sound half a year ago, and thousands of dollars and numerous visits to the SC (temecula ca) has become unrelenting much worse suspension noises.

At every step of the way they've gaslit me saying these are normal sounds or that they dont even hear it. Sometimes when I am sitting IN the car with them they will say they dont hear anything when it's as clear as day. After this last encounter with them, they told me how lucky I am that they didnt charge me over half a grand to torque some fore link bolts that were NOT torqued down. Mind you NOBODY has touched these bolts other than Tesla when they installed them a few months ago! They said I need to live with these sounds as they are "minor" and "not concerning or unusual".

Fed up with the incompetence I took off the front wheel where the noise was coming from, and simply shook the suspension (BY HAND) and FOUND THE SOURCE OF THE NOISE (in the video)!!!! Absolutely appalling the level of incompetence and despicable attitude towards their customers. It is clear why Tesla is in trouble. Sorry for the rant but I've never seen this level of disdain for their custom as well as incompetence from any company I've ever dealt with. Login to view embedded media

It's been sort of a given that Elon Musk's association with the Tesla brand has both positive and negative connotations, but over the last couple of years it seems to have heavily tilted towards the negative. He seems to spend more time operating in tilt mode than he ever has. It all seemed to take a dark turn when he boasted about buying twitter. Since then it's been a real shizenpantz show.

As an owner of a couple of Tesla vehicles, I initially was willing to ignore some of his stupidity. Now I'm not so sure. Knowing what I know now I would not purchase a Tesla. My fear is that he will end up blowing it all, sacrificing any and all good will and market leadership that Tesla currently enjoys, and eventually will kill the company dead.

I think the final straw for me was the recent layoffs. From the outside looking in it is obvious there was no plan. It was just him and his emotional cannon going off. There is no way in hades that any of this can have a positive spin to it.



It really appears that this guy should not even be left in charge of his own life, much less a multi-billion dollar company.

Thoughts?

Yes, I know this will bring out the Musk fanboys, but if you look at him and what he's doing frankly and objectively, you may come away as alarmed as I currently am.

I'm not a tire expert here but have a question.
Three of my newly mounted Ion Evo AS tires have been mounted with the date stamp on the outside, and the front left has been mounted with the date code on the inside. I know that the tires are non-directional, but would the odd mounted tire make a difference to handling or tire wear? Maybe they did it to hide the fact that it my have been a newer or older dated tire. As it is - the three that are showing are dated 4122 which would mean that they were manufactured October of 2022.

I discovered my 23 MYLR roof is cracked. Three questions:
Is there any safety risk if I continue driving this for a while (see below)?
Any chance this is covered under Tesla's warranty or should I just move ahead with an insurance claim with AAA?
Is it important/essential to get this repaired by Tesla and not someone in AAA's "glass network"?

The situation is slightly complicated by the fact that I'm leaving in two days to drive from California to Maine where we'll stay for 6 months. First available SC appointment (in Massachusetts, 2 1/2 hours from our house in Maine) is 5/31.

Thanks for any advice.

p.s. I'm virtually certain the crack is unrelated to the roof rack. Tesla installed the rack and it's easy to see that there is at least 1/16" of clearance between the base of the rack and the glass. I know sometimes these can be installed poorly and impinge on the glass, but I don't believe that's what's going on here.

I note they didn’t even commit to reviewing their daft policy…

Hello

This morning, my coffee took a tumble in the center cup holders and overflowed into the center console, right over the usb-c ports.

I'm an overthinker so I thought it'd be better just to ask -

• Do you guys think it'd cause any damage to the vehicle, or are there safeguards wherein damage to a port won't affect the entire vehicle?
• I have an appointment when mobile service next week. Is it likely they'd replace the usb-c ports? If so, has anyone ever seen the charge for that type of service?
• Lastly, I didn't see it get under the seats. But would the mechanism that allows the seats to move forward and backward be protected from liquid damage?

Thanks for your time