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Did your clicking come back??Getting into lemon territory here... :/
It's a heavy car - what might appear as a perfectly smooth surface might not be perfectly smooth to the suspension. Adding lock changes the geometry of the suspension & strains parts in different dimensions. There could be some amount of preload on the sway bar. Mine even *appears* to follow the rhythm of the double spokes - who knows. If it was easy to pin down, they'd be able to solve it...if this becomes a problem that can't be solved in the first 2 visits, I'm going to consider mic'ing and camera'ing things, if I can, and datalogging it. I have not found a good answer on WHAT is making the noise.
I admit, I don't know enough about the 3's suspension; but if the car is moving slowly on a smooth surface, what would it matter that the wheel is at locked position? why would a 'bad link' show a noise under that condition? is something riding up, slowly, then crashing down, mechanically (like a sawtooth wave)?
I'm trying to visualize how sway bar stuff - that does not change states much when going slow on smooth surfaces - can 'click' as the wheel revolves.
hub stuff - wheel stuff - sure. links? I can't visualize what's going wrong.
Mine even *appears* to follow the rhythm of the double spokes - who knows. If it was easy to pin down, they'd be able to solve it...
Since you guys are frustrated and looking for any solution, how about finding a big parking lot and driving around in circles with the full lock clicking until something really breaks?
Could expose what's really wrong and speed up this whole resolution process for everything.
Yes, and I'm fortunate to live close to an SC.Nope. Mine is fixed.They said it was the CV, but actually we never got a single repair invoice stating that.
I was just thinking about all of the work you're doing to diagnose this. It seems to be pretty time consuming.
Highly likely it will, unfortunately. Mine's in the process of getting worse after the last (3rd) fix. Judging from what others are saying on here, it may have nothing to do with the front drive unit since RWD cars are exhibiting the same problem.Drop of my car today and in 5 hours they told me it's ready for pick up. Invoice says:
"Upon diagnosis found the noise concern to have been coming from the front right axle at outboard where it meets the hub.
The axle was taken off the hub and lubricated along with replacing hardware and re-torquing all suspension components
to the factory specifications. The noise was gone after work was performed. No additional repairs are necessary for this
concern at this time of service."
Replaced "hardware" was only nut and washer. Seems like same "fix" they did in the past, so I'm pretty sure it will come back at some point.
At SC they also said that hub was replaced too, not sure why it's not in the invoice. For now it seems ok, I let you know if issue comes back.Yes, and I'm fortunate to live close to an SC.
Highly likely it will, unfortunately. Mine's in the process of getting worse after the last (3rd) fix. Judging from what others are saying on here, it may have nothing to do with the front drive unit since RWD cars are exhibiting the same problem.
I really hope I don't end up having to solve this myself.
SC have habits of not invoicing everything. I got my car back only driver side upper front control arm replaced on invoice but I see two shiny new control arms.....At SC they also said that hub was replaced too, not sure why it's not in the invoice. For now it seems ok, I let you know if issue comes back.
I just picked up my model 3 after having same noise turned out to be trapped debris around wheel area they removed wheels and cleaned up the whole area so far noise is gone. I took car to empty car park to do full lock turns no noise i drive in a lot of areas were there can be a loose stones my windscreen can vouch for tht
This is the exact scenario I'm experiencing - again. I have contacted Tesla but I think I'm going wait a bit longer for it to get worse. I dont know what the deal is and why employees cannot hear how pronounced the noise is. After the recent lubing clicking is heard from both front wheels and now happening when reversing at full lock.Front left is clicking again. For some reason, it's way harder to replicate than it was before I had any fixes done... not sure what that's about. Gonna let it get a little worse and schedule another appointment. Fifth time's the charm!
Also strange thing happened - I was in a parking garage earlier today (perfectly flat, clean, quiet) and when reversing with full right-lock the sound was EXTREMELY pronounced. Replicated it a few times, then couldn't anymore.
Were you RWD or AWD? I've seen RWD guys say they have the same issue, but I'm in a P3D-.This is the exact scenario I'm experiencing - again. I have contacted Tesla but I think I'm going wait a bit longer for it to get worse. I dont know what the deal is and why employees cannot hear how pronounced the noise is. After the recent lubing clicking is heard from both front wheels and now happening when reversing at full lock.
Right - so it's extremely difficult to pin down. Key word is "seemed" since a lot of them have had it return. I'm posting this video again because the links got broken - saga is detailed in the description:I'm going in on Friday for this exact same problem. My first SC visit. Do we have any confirmed permanent fixes? It sounds like replacing bearings, lubricating, and also CV joint replacement have all seemed to work for different people...