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Sorry, no ideaAny idea what the cost of this service bulletin SB-21-39-001 is for people out of warranty?
Is that for just the half shafts and possibly the clevis or is there more to that quote? I'm re-looking at the twitter quote and I guess those with Raven front ends might have a cheaper repair as it says to just reposition the clevis but it's listed as a part for the front "Small Drive Units" vehicles.$2,000
Any idea what the cost of this service bulletin SB-21-39-001 is for people out of warranty?
If you've brought up this concern before, there should be no charge.View attachment 863533Just share this with them. Specifically the billing for SB-21-39-001 part.
wanted to post a picture of the updated vs. the old clevis mount. Looks a little more robust, doesn't it? Some engineer has definitely put some effort in trying to fix the issue.
View attachment 866092
It's been a minnit. Has anyone validated that SB-21-39-001 offers new and improved parts that (relatively) permanently fix the problem? I'm at the beginning of experiencing this issue.
There are other threads on this, but this is the first one that came up for me in my searches. Tesla has this as $350 flat rate now.Any idea what the cost of this service bulletin SB-21-39-001 is for people out of warranty?
Good luck getting the center to only charge $350. I'm fighting with one of my local centers right now.There
There are other threads on this, but this is the first one that came up for me in my searches. Tesla has this as $350 flat rate now.
I did that the first service request, and even included the TSB PDF in the request. The service "manager" simply said "no". But now providing two examples of other owners' invoices this year, and a link to this forum thread worked.In my experience, the key was pointing the service team towards SB-21-39-001 part. I think there's an explanation in there somewhere.
At least you’re getting it done before the warranty is up! What trim is this onI have an issue that I believe is related to the shudder problem.
I did have the repair done a while back. And for a while it worked fine. After a few months the issue started to come back. I took it back to Tesla on a Rainy day - and the car just wouldn't shudder that day so they didn't accept the car. They did mention they never saw anything fail - so they kind of dismissed it like not a big deal. As a result of their feedback I too kind of treated the issue like it wasn't a big deal.
Well.... Last week I was taking my daughter to school, and in my typical fashion I made a right turn that then goosed it to merge with traffic. In the goosing phase I heard a terrible pop bang sound. Car felt fine - so although I was freaked out and in high alert due to this loud bang - I thought it might just be something that would pass. At the next stop light, as I put the car in motion (medium/low acceleration since I was in traffic) the car made a terrible clanking sound when I started to get in motion. Removing the regen and switched to Chill mode and that seemed to help a bit - as long as I didn't change direction.
I got back home and I needed to figure this issue out, so I removed the frunk lining and put my phone camera aimed at the motor. When I put it in Drive the motor would move up very noticeably; and it would drop back down when I put the car in Reverse. Front motor mount failure is my assumption.
Tesla has the car now - and my drivetrain warranty expires next month. It looks like they are putting a new front motor in there? Seems odd - I'll have to update once I get the car back and study the invoice. Also asking them to check the rear drive unit for coolant on speed sensor - but they seemed to not want to look. I did bring the car in way sooner than the appointment and they accepted it as a safety issue.
TL/DR - I believe the hard acceleration shudder broke my front motor mounts.