Free downloads for .STL speaker brackets etc for 3D printing

[Yallis]

@RWAudio . Do you know if anyone has tried your adapters for the Kicker L7-8 in a model Y? Perhaps you are able to see if it maybe will fit with some photos I attached? Also added my «new» subwoofer to go with 750W @ 2 ohm Gladen amp.

 

[RWAudio]

@RWAudio . Do you know if anyone has tried your adapters for the Kicker L7-8 in a model Y? Perhaps you are able to see if it maybe will fit with some photos I attached? Also added my «new» subwoofer to go with 750W @ 2 ohm Gladen amp.

I believe the part number of both subwoofer drivers is the same, so my adapter should work in the model Y. I can't speak to if the factory amp would still have clearance, but it should (if you are using it of course). The kicker you referenced looks good but I'm not sure if that would fit my adapter. My adapter is designed around the L7T8 shallow mount subwoofer.

Solo-Baric L7T 8 Inch Subwoofer | KICKER®

KICKER produces high-performance car audio, vehicle specific solutions, marine audio, home and personal audio, and power sports products since 1973.

www.kicker.com

 

[tyler_k1]

I finished my speaker swap project on my M3P over the weekend. Here's everything I swapped:

Sub: Skar SDR-8 D4
Front dash speakers: FaitalPro 4FE35 in the corners, 4FE32 in the center
Front door woofers: Dayton Audio SIG180 6.5" with RWAudio adapters
Front door tweeters: Dayton Audio AN25
Rear door speakers: FaitalPro 4FE32

What's still stock/what I'm not changing: Rear deck speakers, headliner speakers

I haven't had hours of listening time yet, but initial impressions of the current system are very strong. I'm not quite an audiophile, but merely an enthusiast and thought the OEM system was very good out of the box, but there's certainly room for improvement. My non professional thoughts are that the new system is fuller, richer, clearer and punchier. The Skar provides much more low end extension. The only other thing I might like to do is add a dedicated amp for the sub.

I was going to retrofit a center dash tweeter, however my dash has that hole completely filled in with plastic and I couldn't figure out a good way to cut it out with very little working area. I may still decide to go back in and figure something out, but we'll see.

 

[Dennis Derksen]

Those are fitting

 

[FatM3]

I finished my speaker swap project on my M3P over the weekend. Here's everything I swapped:

Sub: Skar SDR-8 D4
Front dash speakers: FaitalPro 4FE35 in the corners, 4FE32 in the center
Front door woofers: Dayton Audio SIG180 6.5" with RWAudio adapters
Front door tweeters: Dayton Audio AN25
Rear door speakers: FaitalPro 4FE32

What's still stock/what I'm not changing: Rear deck speakers, headliner speakers

I haven't had hours of listening time yet, but initial impressions of the current system are very strong. I'm not quite an audiophile, but merely an enthusiast and thought the OEM system was very good out of the box, but there's certainly room for improvement. My non professional thoughts are that the new system is fuller, richer, clearer and punchier. The Skar provides much more low end extension. The only other thing I might like to do is add a dedicated amp for the sub.

I was going to retrofit a center dash tweeter, however my dash has that hole completely filled in with plastic and I couldn't figure out a good way to cut it out with very little working area. I may still decide to go back in and figure something out, but we'll see.

Hopefully you had more time with the sub. How's the sub with stock amp, what type of music do you listen too? I may try the skar sub.

 

[tyler_k1]

Hopefully you had more time with the sub. How's the sub with stock amp, what type of music do you listen too? I may try the skar sub.

I'm still impressed and generally have the same thoughts as I initially did, which is that for the money and low effort needed, it is definitely worth it. For me, the biggest improvement is the low end extension and overall accuracy compared to OEM. Maybe slightly more punchy. Just don't get the Metra adapter, not an ideal fit.

I mostly listen to top hits and top country playlists, along with some hip hop, melodic pop (Lana Del Ray, for example) and rock (grew up on hard rock/metal, but don't listen to that as much these days). So a little bit of everything.

 

[aranger22]

Can someone here help me make OEM brackets for the Kicker HS8 powered sub?

I'm currently using the Alpine PWE-S8 and got these brackets that I found online (Link)

They worked perfectly on my 2023 M3 RWD to put into the OEM spot, but this sub I am using isn't rated for 16V, so just for precaution, I want to swap it with the Kicker which is rated for 16V.

Both the powered subs are identical in size but the mounting points are different. I'd appreciate it if someone could help out, I don't have much experience in 3D modeling.

 

[RWAudio]

Can someone here help me make OEM brackets for the Kicker HS8 powered sub?

I'm currently using the Alpine PWE-S8 and got these brackets that I found online (Link)

They worked perfectly on my 2023 M3 RWD to put into the OEM spot, but this sub I am using isn't rated for 16V, so just for precaution, I want to swap it with the Kicker which is rated for 16V.

Both the powered subs are identical in size but the mounting points are different. I'd appreciate it if someone could help out, I don't have much experience in 3D modeling.

I also use onshape, so I was able to just grab the parts you linked to. What do you need to be modified?

 

[aranger22]

I also use onshape, so I was able to just grab the parts you linked to. What do you need to be modified?

I PM’d you measurements and pics

 

[tyler_k1]

Skar came out with an enclosure similar to the one from NVX. Man, that is tempting. A VD-10 in here would pair great with my SDR8 in the OEM enclosure.

Skar Audio on Instagram: "Own a Tesla Model 3 and want to add some bass? Check out our NEW L-VD-VS-1X10MODEL3-2017-UP Loaded 10" subwoofer enclosure designed in house specifically for 2017-UP Tesla Model 3 sedans 🔊⚡ • • 💸 15% OFF SITEWIDE 💸 🔊 www.ska

1,806 likes, 5 comments - skaraudioofficial on May 21, 2024: "Own a Tesla Model 3 and want to add some bass? Check out our NEW L-VD-VS-1X10MODEL3-2017-UP Loaded 10" subwoofer enclosure designed in...".

www.instagram.com

 

[RWAudio]

Skar came out with an enclosure similar to the one from NVX. Man, that is tempting. A VD-10 in here would pair great with my SDR8 in the OEM enclosure.

Skar Audio on Instagram: "Own a Tesla Model 3 and want to add some bass? Check out our NEW L-VD-VS-1X10MODEL3-2017-UP Loaded 10" subwoofer enclosure designed in house specifically for 2017-UP Tesla Model 3 sedans 🔊⚡ • • 💸 15% OFF SITEWIDE 💸 🔊 www.ska

1,806 likes, 5 comments - skaraudioofficial on May 21, 2024: "Own a Tesla Model 3 and want to add some bass? Check out our NEW L-VD-VS-1X10MODEL3-2017-UP Loaded 10" subwoofer enclosure designed in...".

www.instagram.com

Interesting, that would be quite a bit of bass output without sacrificing any cargo space using both Subwoofers.

 

[PlanetExpress]

@RWAudio where have you landed on a tweeter recommendation for the OEM location? Still the AN25F? I'd love to have something that would fit and play down to 2K, don't know if that's just a dream.

 

[RWAudio]

@RWAudio where have you landed on a tweeter recommendation for the OEM location? Still the AN25F? I'd love to have something that would fit and play down to 2K, don't know if that's just a dream.

Dayton ND20's were the only cheap tweeters I had handy, I mocked them up but didn't really like them. They might be a bit better than the stock tweeter (in a RWD with the capacitors built into the Hansshow harness) however I suspect in a premium system with the EQ/Tuning Tesla has done, the stock tweeter is probably better.
Of what I've tried I'd say the Focal is next, it's clean and clear but a bit bright for my taste. I have the Hertz tweeters (MP25.3) back in and I have no desire to change them again. I have to say overall I haven't played with the system lately because I just like it.
Hertz MP25.3 with the Hansshow capacitors putting the crossover somewhere pretty high like 8-10k (I believe I have the exact number in the Hansshow speaker activation thread).
Scan Speak 10F's in the dash and rear doors (the rear doors don't provide as much bang for the buck as the dash, unless you are looking to go the extra mile I'd skip them)
Dayton Sig180-4's in the doors
Skar VD-8 dual 4 ohm in the factory enclosure with a Kicker Key 500.4. (the Skar 500w amp is probably a cheaper option here, I'll get it in one of these days to test).

I just can't complain. The Hertz woofer might be a hair better than the Dayton but I wouldn't say it's worth it.
I'm sure there is a good cheap tweeter out there, I just haven't found it yet. The Dayton AN-25 might be better than the ND-20 that I tried, however you don't actually need a tweeter that goes low. The dash has pretty high extension which gives a nice soundstage, I wouldn't want to lower that unless there are problem areas that need to be tamed, I'm old enough that I can barely hear anything past 15k so there could be some problem areas up high with the scan speak where it overlaps the tweeter that would be tamed with a lower crossover frequency, however I don't see the need to get anywhere near 2k, I like that coming from the Scan Speaks in the dash.

My taste is my taste though, these aren't measurement driven opinions these are purely what I like. For reference I have a pair of Magnepan LRS+'s and vintage ADS L780's in my home stereo that I alternate between. The Magenpans remind me a hair more of the scan speaks, they are simply clean and clear through the entire midrange and into the treble. The ADS have a smoother midrange than either the Magenepan or Scan Speak while having a nice bottom end that isn't thundering by any stretch but it's full and fun to listen to. The Skar VD-8 has a similar character in the bass but isn't as detailed or refined as the ADS. I think the speakers I have in the car now are solid, and to take it to the next level would require full DSP and someone experienced enough to tune it.

 

[PlanetExpress]

Dayton ND20's were the only cheap tweeters I had handy, I mocked them up but didn't really like them. They might be a bit better than the stock tweeter (in a RWD with the capacitors built into the Hansshow harness) however I suspect in a premium system with the EQ/Tuning Tesla has done, the stock tweeter is probably better.
Of what I've tried I'd say the Focal is next, it's clean and clear but a bit bright for my taste. I have the Hertz tweeters (MP25.3) back in and I have no desire to change them again. I have to say overall I haven't played with the system lately because I just like it.
Hertz MP25.3 with the Hansshow capacitors putting the crossover somewhere pretty high like 8-10k (I believe I have the exact number in the Hansshow speaker activation thread).
Scan Speak 10F's in the dash and rear doors (the rear doors don't provide as much bang for the buck as the dash, unless you are looking to go the extra mile I'd skip them)
Dayton Sig180-4's in the doors
Skar VD-8 dual 4 ohm in the factory enclosure with a Kicker Key 500.4. (the Skar 500w amp is probably a cheaper option here, I'll get it in one of these days to test).

I just can't complain. The Hertz woofer might be a hair better than the Dayton but I wouldn't say it's worth it.
I'm sure there is a good cheap tweeter out there, I just haven't found it yet. The Dayton AN-25 might be better than the ND-20 that I tried, however you don't actually need a tweeter that goes low. The dash has pretty high extension which gives a nice soundstage, I wouldn't want to lower that unless there are problem areas that need to be tamed, I'm old enough that I can barely hear anything past 15k so there could be some problem areas up high with the scan speak where it overlaps the tweeter that would be tamed with a lower crossover frequency, however I don't see the need to get anywhere near 2k, I like that coming from the Scan Speaks in the dash.

My taste is my taste though, these aren't measurement driven opinions these are purely what I like. For reference I have a pair of Magnepan LRS+'s and vintage ADS L780's in my home stereo that I alternate between. The Magenpans remind me a hair more of the scan speaks, they are simply clean and clear through the entire midrange and into the treble. The ADS have a smoother midrange than either the Magenepan or Scan Speak while having a nice bottom end that isn't thundering by any stretch but it's full and fun to listen to. The Skar VD-8 has a similar character in the bass but isn't as detailed or refined as the ADS. I think the speakers I have in the car now are solid, and to take it to the next level would require full DSP and someone experienced enough to tune it.

Looks like if I want to cross them low, the Hertz would be the way to go, but the price, yikes. I'm bothered by what I assume is combing from the dash speakers between 2k and 4k, causing unpleasant spikes that make me turn the volume down. My theory is if I can move more of that range to the tweeters and get them coming to me on axis I can get rid of some of that. I am running active, so I can tame some of it through EQ, but I'd need to sacrifice quite a bit around the narrow problem frequencies.

Why did you go with 6.5" in the front doors rather than 8"? I think at one point you had Focal 8" in there.

 

[RWAudio]

Looks like if I want to cross them low, the Hertz would be the way to go, but the price, yikes. I'm bothered by what I assume is combing from the dash speakers between 2k and 4k, causing unpleasant spikes that make me turn the volume down. My theory is if I can move more of that range to the tweeters and get them coming to me on axis I can get rid of some of that. I am running active, so I can tame some of it through EQ, but I'd need to sacrifice quite a bit around the narrow problem frequencies.

Why did you go with 6.5" in the front doors rather than 8"? I think at one point you had Focal 8" in there.

The tweeters are so easy to replace and work on, I'd go ahead and try the Daytons then, your application is a bit outside the normal setup.

The Dayton and Hertz 6.5" are better than the Focal 8", size isn't everything.