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Plaid handling improvements: better wheels, tires, brakes, suspension options

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MarcG

Active Member
Oct 29, 2014
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San Francisco
As more Plaids are being delivered, the spirited driving enthusiasts among us are potentially looking for better handling dynamics, starting with lighter wheels, different tire compound/sizes, suspension adjustments/upgrades, and better brakes.

So even though I have yet to take delivery of mine, @lolachampcar just got his and already posted some good feedback in the massive delivery thread (ignore the quoted text, and click on the links instead):




 
Moving to the correct location

I've posted a few comments above but have only spent twenty minutes in the car. It builds energy so quickly and the yoke is VERY different so I have yet to get confidence to push the car at all. I will do so over the days to come and try to post observations in areas not covered by (the most excellent work done by) others. I'll also post pictures if I run out of talent (gotta own your mistakes).

One thing screamed at me imediately. The wheels and tires do the car a huge disservice. I am sure the big rear tires are very good for at the limit straight line acceleration but you pay a huge price in the rest of the driving envelope. Tesla's traction control can easily handle a reduction in rear longitudinal grip so a little less rear rubber is very doable. Again, this is only my opinion and you know what they say about opinions :)

I'd be willing to bet you can get into a corner and exit out much harder with less rubber and rim weight. If I am right, the only advantage the big rears will have is appearance and drag racing. Good if that is your thing. I spend near zero time drag racing but have several favorite (and safe) corners on my way to and from the hangar so I would use the handling daily.





OCS300 said:
Why not go to 285s all around?
I've been spending a lot of time on the Will They Fit configuration page looking at rim widths, offsets and tire sizes. Given you really can not try and return, I'm trying to narrow in on a good compromise that has the best chance of not causing problems. 265 does fit up front without rubbing so the exposure is .5" wider rim. This risk seems reasonable with that change. I would prefer 9.5" rims but the ones I have the most experience with only come in inch increments. I prefer the same rim/tire on all four corners so I only have to buy one spare rim.

I also have 100k miles of experience with 255s on my PD. I'm happy with the balance and at the limit grip given the tons of experience on the rubber. 265s with an inch wider rim will provide just a little bit more tire width so it should not affect range over what I am used to.

The above said, I do realize I am going under what Tesla is shipping be they 19s or 21s. There is always risk going narrower.






Back from a bike ride where it occurred to me that I too was disappointed with (what appears to be) uprated front brakes. I did not do any high energy braking for reasons explained above but what little braking I did left me surprised with the lack of initial grip followed by the feeling that the pads were gliding across the rotor surface.

I've felt this before with green brakes that needed bedding. Race teams send their rotors and pads out to a brake dyno to have both components properly bedded in a controlled repeatable environment. They do not want to use precious track time to do this and simply do not trust professional drivers to do it correctly consistently.

These are obsolete Brembo rotors purchased from a team that had moved to Performance Friction. Note that they all look used inclusive of heat sensitive paint which has reacted. They are new, just bedded and ready for track use.
http://www.lolachampcar.com/images/Generic Spares/Some Rotors.jpg

I normally do both mine and my wife's S' when we take delivery as they always feel a bit green. The Plaid's are VERY green and, if you tried any high energy braking before bedding, you would certainly glaze the rotors and pads which dramatically reduces braking performance. Tesla rotors readily surface corrode with just a little water. If this is still the case with glazing, this might give people a chance to recover. If not, we used to have to take the rotors and pads off, clean to bare metal and fresh pad with an abrasive wheel then re-try to properly bed them.

I've typically turned off re-gen to bed S pads in the past. It will be interesting to try and do it accounting for re-gen this time around as there is no way to turn it off. Another forum member has pointed out some differences in the rear calipers. If Tesla is doing something with torque vectoring under braking to increase stability it may be even more difficult trying to get the right amount of heat/energy into the fronts and the rears without overdoing either.

Fun stuff to keep a nerd busy.

All off topic. This has been my home for the last 8 weeks but I am happy to move this stuff to another thread.


edit
Brake Dyno


Essex really knows their stuff when it comes to brake dyno and pad bedding services
 
@lolachampcar Do you think it’s wiser to buy the Plaid or MSLR with the 19”s in spite of their looks? Perhaps you’ll have the opportunity to drive one with 19” and give us your thoughts.

Good luck with your new ride!
Both my + and Plaid orders were with 19s knowing from way back in 2012 that Tesla's 21" option was way too heavy. 21" was the only way Tesla could deliver my car so 21s I have. I'll sell them as soon as my aftermarket stuff is ready.

My wife's LR is coming with 19s so I'll get a chance to try them then. She is pretty far back in the line so I suspect you will get a lot of feedback from other sources before I have a chance to drive the car.

IIRC on the Plaid, the 19 and 21" options came with the same size rubber. If that is the case, there may not be that much difference in weight between the two.
 
Both my + and Plaid orders were with 19s knowing from way back in 2012 that Tesla's 21" option was way too heavy. 21" was the only way Tesla could deliver my car so 21s I have. I'll sell them as soon as my aftermarket stuff is ready.

My wife's LR is coming with 19s so I'll get a chance to try them then. She is pretty far back in the line so I suspect you will get a lot of feedback from other sources before I have a chance to drive the car.

IIRC on the Plaid, the 19 and 21" options came with the same size rubber. If that is the case, there may not be that much difference in weight between the two.
Here are the tire and wheels specs for the Plaid.

1627228842173.png
 
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Here's a link where someone found the size of tires for the upcoming Tesla Plaid Track package and will be running 285 20"s for fronts (305s for rear).


Signature Wheel on the other thread also confirmed 285 as the widest to fit in front on 20"s.

I think its a safe bet. This is what I am planning on running - 285/20s all around. Main objective is to be able to rotate the tires and get more life out of them at the same time keeping performance high.
 
Here's a link where someone found the size of tires for the upcoming Tesla Plaid Track package and will be running 285 20"s for fronts (305s for rear).


Signature Wheel on the other thread also confirmed 285 as the widest to fit in front on 20"s.

I think its a safe bet. This is what I am planning on running - 285/20s all around. Main objective is to be able to rotate the tires and get more life out of them at the same time keeping performance high.
Ditto.
 
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Just did some snooping in my Hangar. Mid 90s and 100% humidity so more like a sauna.

Re brakes. I tried to do some initial bedding on the way out. The front rotors are just starting to show transfer while the backs are about half way there. I guess it will be get the backs right first so you can hammer the fronts more without glazing the rears. It is way more difficult than I thought it would be to properly gauge bedding. The re-gen is strong and disproportionate so its a bit hard to feel exactly what the pads are doing.

Front brake components are massive in comparison to my 2015 PD. These no longer look like Brembo OEM stuff but more likely Tesla's own or another way less known vendor. Pistons are very large. Pad area is much larger which might be part of the problem with bedding. It takes a lot longer to bed large area pads as the interface pressures are lower.

The rear brakes are a floating clamp type using pistons on one side of the rotor only. The electric park brake actuator and/or the hydraulic piston can actuate the rear brake - the parking brake and primary rear brake are now the same component.

I tried to get some better pictures of caliper clearance. Bottom line is that there is a TON of room for larger rotors and/or different rims without fear of face or OD interference.

The funky close up pictures of the rear calipers was an attempt to show the clamp fingers that reach out to put pressure on the outside pad (and limit heat transfer to the clamp). Sorry for the less than stellar photography.
Hangar.JPG
 

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Ok, there is only so many pics you can post here. Please find the following dropbox link for the suspension pics.



Observations
Putting a straight edge across the rim/tire combination and measuring clearance from that line to the front and rear fender to set a baseline for wheel protrusion-

Stock 21s
Left/Right
In front of tire. .50 front .630
Behind the tire. .770 / .755

In front of tire. .460 rear .450
Behind the tire. .510 / .640

My 20s. (20x9). 255/40 ZR20. PS4S
.115
.405

.400
.050 (likely caused by toe changes as the ride height had not returned to normal - I needed to roll out the car)

The suspension is all new and very robust. Especially interesting are the torque links on the rear which are MASSIVE. The upper a-arm can be shimmed for camber adjustment :)

Ride height links are about 2" long and use a 0.390" ball.

Check out the clearance between tire OD and the front top upright arm. Take care not to increase the tire OD with your choice.

Sway bars are large. Fronts appear to be solid although it was hard to confirm. Rear appears to be tubular and I could not see the longitudinal mounting points and thus could not show the sway bar arm. These big bars explain some of the head snatch I feel when hitting a bump with one of the front wheels.

Tesla pulled the fenders down to close off wheel arch to tire clearance. Ground clearance is 5.140"/5.340" front/rear (I believe it was in low but really need to confirm this) and there is still a good bit of tire to arch clearance. A small reduction in tire OD combined with adjustable lowering links should allow CoG to be dropped by an inch which will make a big difference on turn in and mid corner feel.

Anyone else really taken aback by the lack of lateral support in the seats. I was hard pressed to put my finger on it but I finally realized that part of my problem in understanding the car is coming from lack of thigh and rib feedback from the seats. I really miss my sport seats in my old P90DL.
 
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I know weight and especially unsprung mass is very important, but aren't you worried about taking too much mass off the rims and tires for the current shock valving and spring rates? Or are you going to change everything to optimize for the reduced mass?
 
Ok, there is only so many pics you can post here. Please find the following dropbox link for the suspension pics.



Observations
Putting a straight edge across the rim/tire combination and measuring clearance from that line to the front and rear fender to set a baseline for wheel protrusion-

Stock 21s
Left/Right
In front of tire. .50 front .630
Behind the tire. .770 / .755

In front of tire. .460 rear .450
Behind the tire. .510 / .640

My 20s. (20x9). 255/40 ZR20. PS4S
.115
.405

.400
.050 (likely caused by toe changes as the ride height had not returned to normal - I needed to roll out the car)

The suspension is all new and very robust. Especially interesting are the torque links on the rear which are MASSIVE. The upper a-arm can be shimmed for camber adjustment :)

Ride height links are about 2" long and use a 0.390" ball.

Check out the clearance between tire OD and the front top upright arm. Take care not to increase the tire OD with your choice.

Sway bars are large. Fronts appear to be solid although it was hard to confirm. Rear appears to be tubular and I could not see the longitudinal mounting points and thus could not show the sway bar arm. These big bars explain some of the head snatch I feel when hitting a bump with one of the front wheels.

Tesla pulled the fenders down to close off wheel arch to tire clearance. Ground clearance is 5.140"/5.340" front/rear (I believe it was in low but really need to confirm this) and there is still a good bit of tire to arch clearance. A small reduction in tire OD combined with adjustable lowering links should allow CoG to be dropped by an inch which will make a big difference on turn in and mid corner feel.

Anyone else really taken aback by the lack of lateral support in the seats. I was hard pressed to put my finger on it but I finally realized that part of my problem in understanding the car is coming from lack of thigh and rib feedback from the seats. I really miss my sport seats in my old P90DL.

Curious to hear how different the Plaid components are compared to the LR? Hopefully someone can do similar pics / write up on one soon.
 
Excellent sleuthing Bill! Thank you so much for sharing it all on here. There’s so much to go over, but to summarize my questions:

1. Are you happy with the new suspension as-is, including all the screen adjustments that are possible?

2. What would recommend for brake upgrades: pads only, rotors and pads, or calipers/rotors/pads altogether?

3. I am reaching the same conclusion as you on rims, where flow formed gives you enough weight savings (relative to stock) at a very affordable price, compared to the little extra you would gain with forged at a much higher cost (let’s not even talk about carbon!) With that in mind, what rim & tire sizes are you considering?
 
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