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This Flash Drive Corrupted?

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ext4 does 'journaling' and so its more likely that when tesla remounts the drive, it will do an 'fsck' (check/repair).

didn't tesla finally fix the sloppy 'dont dismount gracefully' bug? I have not had a crashed usb teslacam for a while, now (at least a month).
 
I find it hilarious that tesla has no GUI way to format your thumbdrive! wow. even cameras have this, so that users don't have to fumble around with 'what format should I use'.

its not hard. it just shows how understaffed that company is (sigh) ;(

it would take an open source developer a day or less to add this to their gui, including debug time.

oh well.
 
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ext4 does 'journaling' and so its more likely that when tesla remounts the drive, it will do an 'fsck' (check/repair).

didn't tesla finally fix the sloppy 'dont dismount gracefully' bug? I have not had a crashed usb teslacam for a while, now (at least a month).
I’m not aware of them fixing that. Not sure they could either as the cameras are constantly writing to the drive and if you simply pull the cable or drive from USB how would the car know?
 
its not hard to fix this.

internally, you keep the data (they already do in case they have to upload it).

you can get an insert/removal event from the udev system, assuming that's running on their linux.

if the device 'goes away' and then 'comes back' later, you can resync. repair via fsck and even fdisk if need be.

then replay the data in the car's internal buffer back to user usb storage.

mark the last update date, clear local backing store and that's most (if not all) that's needed.

even tools like rsync can make sure that target media matches internal 'media'.
 
I find it hilarious that tesla has no GUI way to format your thumbdrive! wow. even cameras have this, so that users don't have to fumble around with 'what format should I use'.

its not hard. it just shows how understaffed that company is (sigh) ;(

it would take an open source developer a day or less to add this to their gui, including debug time.

oh well.
Let’s not forget that Sentry was an afterthought and implemented due to all the breakins happening. In my opinion Sentry and TeslaCam suck anyway. 3 second gaps between clips and the video is poor quality. Often can’t even read license plates that you might need in an accident, etc. That’s why I installed a Blackvue DR900S dual channel system with 4K UHD.
 
I'm not sure I want to spend money on a real sentry cam.

so for many of us, its either 'use what we have via tesla' or have nothing.

agreed that what tesla gives is not an A+ effort, but its better than nothing, for the cost of some usb storage.

some car vendors will not give users usb or any external storage options. I'm quite thankful that tesla gives us this much ;)
 
I'm not sure I want to spend money on a real sentry cam.

so for many of us, its either 'use what we have via tesla' or have nothing.

agreed that what tesla gives is not an A+ effort, but its better than nothing, for the cost of some usb storage.

some car vendors will not give users usb or any external storage options. I'm quite thankful that tesla gives us this much ;)
Fair enough. I bought mine during a Black Friday sale so it was fairly cheap. It also functions and allows the car to sleep versus Sentry which keeps the cars computer on and won’t allow sleep. So you burn much more energy over time and pay for that energy.
 
You guys have to remember. The cameras were never intended to be used as a dash cam. They were for autopilot only. Tesla just threw this in as an extra feature. So it’s hard to complain about something they did for free and never really planned on.
 
the 'no sleep tax' for tesla cam is due to their sleep architecture being done before the teslacam feature came about. fully understandable and, yes, its a lot of 'miles' to have to pay for, each nite, to keep the car away - just to keep data logging going, video wise.

you can be sure that the next gen platform will have this already built in so that it does not break sleep modes.
 
My understanding is that unless the word "endurance" appears somewhere, corruption is likely. Correct?

Also, it seems that no thumb drives are endurance (only SD cards + readers).
Not correct. Sometimes it is worthwhile taking a look at individual specs. Do you see any cards with similar specs for a similar price?

USB 3.1 Flash Drive BAR Plus 256GB Champagne Silver Memory & Storage - MUF-256BE3/AM | Samsung US

Operating Temperature 0~60℃

Non-operating Temperature -10~70℃

Shock Acceleration: 1,500 g (gravity), Duration time: 0.5 ms, Direction: x,y,z 3 times

Warranty 5 years limited
 
there are no 'specs' that even matter, that samsung is publishing.

internal transfer rates, number of concurrent tasks (cores), buffer sizes, mtbf, wear leveling free-list, etc.

samsung won't release those as they are probably just regular consumer drives.

I've learned to avoid samsung consumer products. and in an automotive context, I'd never rely on that brand.

samsung has great advertising and many people fall for it.
 
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Don't waste your money on an SSD or micro SD with adaptor. You don't need the "endurance" or "industrial". If you have issues with an otherwise fine drive, it is the Tesla software.

again, lets separate the issues, here.

1) tesla has software issues with drive dismounting (when going to sleep) and they don't always repair the drive again on power-up
- it does not matter what drive type or brand you use, or even what interface sits behind usb (sata, nvme, sd-card, etc). the dismount problem is entirely on tesla's side

2) fat32 is harder to 'fix' when repaired than ext4 (linux native filesystem)
- this is also orthogonal to what drive brand you use, drive size, interface type

3) aside from tesla's software problem, we are also talking about what kind of drives would best operate in an automotive environment, which is closer to -40C to 70C or even wider.
- regardless of tesla's filesystem corruption issue, you might as well get the best wide temperature range media you can get, and since its going to be written to almost constantly, might as well go with something 'high endurance' (but be careful about marketing lies from vendors).

we can't do much about #1

we have some control over #2 (we can force an ext4fs format and even reformat every so often just to 'freshen' a drive, after copying the data from it, of course). if you copy your data off and then reformat the drive, it creates a 'fresh' folder and the write process (tesla) will have a faster/easier job (new folders are usually faster to write to than folders that already have data in them, by a tiny amount).

we have total control over #3
 
3) aside from tesla's software problem, we are also talking about what kind of drives would best operate in an automotive environment, which is closer to -40C to 70C or even wider.

How's the weather on venus today?

Anyway, back on earth, cabin temp won't go over about 40C if you have overheat protection on- which you should given all the electronics in the car to start with.

Hence that Samsung drive with operating specs up to 60C is plenty fine no need to buy some stupidly more expensive spacecraft tech.

Likewise the % of tesla owners that'll see -40 is Pretty Damn Low.



and since its going to be written to almost constantly, might as well go with something 'high endurance'


Why?

On a decently sized unit (128 or 256 GB) even non-endurance stuff is rated for enough write cycles to be good 5-10 years on the LOW end, and decades on the higher end. So why spend more money unless you think you're gonna need 40 year old dashcam footage, still on its original media, some day?


we have some control over #2 (we can force an ext4fs format and even reformat every so often just to 'freshen' a drive, after copying the data from it, of course). if you copy your data off and then reformat the drive, it creates a 'fresh' folder and the write process (tesla) will have a faster/easier job (new folders are usually faster to write to than folders that already have data in them, by a tiny amount).


I've seen you claim this a few times- without ever offering any evidence, source, or explanation.

AFAIK the only thing reformatting will do to an otherwise working flash drive is waste write cycles and shorten the life of the drive. (Ditto the defragging you had previously been telling people to do frequently until I called you on that as useless for flash media)

What, specifically, is the technical explanation for why a "fresh" folder makes any difference in this application compared to a presently working existing one and can you provide any sources to support the claim?
 
How's the weather on venus today?

Anyway, back on earth, cabin temp won't go over about 40C if you have overheat protection on- which you should given all the electronics in the car to start with.

Hence that Samsung drive with operating specs up to 60C is plenty fine no need to buy some stupidly more expensive spacecraft tech.

What Is Automotive Grade? Here's What It Means

it does not matter what YOU think your car's temp range should be, the people who design and build cars do know what they are doing, generally. nvidia's document says:

"That’s why our automotive solutions are rated to run from -40 to 105 degrees Celsius. It may seem like overkill, but the inside of a closed car can reach extreme temperatures during a sweltering summer day in many parts of the United States. And cars are sold in every corner of the world, Iceland to Israel, Greenland to Granada."


Likewise the % of tesla owners that'll see -40 is Pretty Damn Low.

as a design engineer (I work in automotive) you follow the guidelines for the industry.

you can ignore them, but then you've done less of a job if you think 'you know better' than the industry.



Why?

On a decently sized unit (128 or 256 GB) even non-endurance stuff is rated for enough write cycles to be good 5-10 years on the LOW end, and decades on the higher end. So why spend more money unless you think you're gonna need 40 year old dashcam footage, still on its original media, some day?

I don't have the same level of trust you seem to have for your flash media.


I've seen you claim this a few times- without ever offering any evidence, source, or explanation.

AFAIK the only thing reformatting will do to an otherwise working flash drive is waste write cycles and shorten the life of the drive. (Ditto the defragging you had previously been telling people to do frequently until I called you on that as useless for flash media)

What, specifically, is the technical explanation for why a "fresh" folder makes any difference in this application compared to a presently working existing one and can you provide any sources to support the claim?

simple, its a known fact that an initialized disk has no 'holes', no files taking up space that need to be skipped over, no fragmented allocations. re-formating (not low level format, but just 'mkfs' style format) does NOT wear the media down in any significant way. you are just init'ing the dir structures and partition table.

the test is easy to do; create a fragmented fat32 disk of any kind (copy files, delete some, copy more new ones, etc) and then compare the new file create time vs that of a freshly mkfs'd disk.

I'm not sure why you are fighting about this. this is already worked out, many years ago. defragging does definitely help with fat32 file creation (fat32 is not self-defragging, but ext4fs is). I would not suggest a sector by sector defrag, as that WILL copy data and create unnecessary wear. what I AM suggesting is that to freshen up the drive, you copy data from it to some new device (your home pc), then reformat the flash drive (quick format). since this is a teslacam drive, once you've copied the old files off, there's no good reason to put them back, so you have 3 choices:

1) leave the disk as-is and let tesla prune older files
2) copy data off and reformat
3) copy data off and delete older files once they're copied off

#1 leaves the disk fragmented and it causes more overhead for tesla to have to remove older files.

#2 is the best method, imho

#3 is not much better than #1, as the the disk is now fragmented and will get slower and slower over time
 
knightshade, you may want to read up on things like this:

https://e2e.ti.com/blogs_/b/industr...tor-running-aec-q100-automotive-grade-drivers

quote

AEC-Q100 starts by defining five different temperature grades that specify the ambient operating temperature range for a given device. For example, Grade 1 is pretty common for in-cabin applications and specifies that the device can operate in an ambient of -40°C to +125°C

btw, I also had to learn this recently. on a project, at work, I suggested we could save of lot of money if we used some cheaper storage. talked to our hardware group and I got an education on industrial grade storage media.

I'm telling people because most are NOT automotive or industrial design engineers.

you can disagree all you want. or, you can admit you don't know everything and say thanks for the info...
 
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What Is Automotive Grade? Here's What It Means

it does not matter what YOU think your car's temp range should be

I mean- it kind of does since I have an app on my phone that tells me what the cars temp is and I specific setting on the car to let me control that.


Nvidia designed their chip to be used in LOTS of cars. Many of which lack such features.

But that's irrelevant here since Teslas do have overheat protection to insure your cabin never gets anywhere NEAR the temps in question.




simple, its a known fact that an initialized disk has no 'holes', no files taking up space that need to be skipped over, no fragmented allocations. re-formating (not low level format, but just 'mkfs' style format) does NOT wear the media down in any significant way. you are just init'ing the dir structures and partition table.

the test is easy to do; create a fragmented fat32 disk of any kind (copy files, delete some, copy more new ones, etc) and then compare the new file create time vs that of a freshly mkfs'd disk.

I'm not sure why you are fighting about this. this is already worked out, many years ago.

Then surely you can provide some sources that support these claims


Specifically in the application of flash media rather than a spinning disk, and connected to a USB2.0 interface as it is in the car.

...or even better actual benchmarks showing the difference you insist both exists and matters.


Because otherwise it increasingly sounds like the same "Well I overpaid to buy flash that's good to 50 degrees hotter than the car will even allow it to ever get and that totally seems smart to me!" argument from above.