I currently own a 2017 Model S 75 equipped with the standard 'Base' headlights. Unfortunately, the LED strip on my headlight brow has burnt out, prompting me to consider replacing both headlights. I'm exploring the possibility of upgrading to the 'Up-Level' headlights and wondering if this swap would be compatible without encountering any issues. Can I seamlessly install the 'Up-Level' headlights in place of the 'Base' ones?

Curious to know from folks with the Model 3 Highland as to what are some of the rationale for ponying up $2000/CDN$2600 for the Ultra Red?
Did you consider other colours?
Was it worth it? Any regrets?

Well all excited to pick up brand new MYP Stealth Grey. First the “15 min process” took about an hour and half to even see the car. So the whole process looked like a great experience in all the Delivery Day video I watched. Then, car comes out for delivery (finally) and it’s a mess! Pollen still everywhere, much of the car (entire 1/4 panels) not even washed, dirt/grime in every corner, leaves stuck in the wiper area, then for stuff that couldn’t be fixed with a good detailing, scratches all over, and the frunk hood was lower (by enough to notice just looking at it).

Declined car…they have a second in stock. It’s getting ready. Hopefully it isn’t strike two and I’m out.

Sorry a disappointing first post, was hoping for a much better experience.

Since it makes the X go above $80k and lose the $7500 fed ev credit.

Pretty pricey for a paint color

The grid is more unstable each year due to increasing renewable penetration without sufficient energy storage. It was designed for slow, stable, turbine-based generators and we are offsetting them with massive banks of inverters that don't contribute a fraction of the stability.

The grid of the future must integrate resources to the residential level, like EVs, to address this. Imagine a tight web with millions of generators and loads where power can be supplied right next to where it’s needed.

What would it take to allow someone to sell your EV's power while you weren't using it? What control over it or flexibility would you need? What would hold you back?

De titel zegt het al.
Hoe kom ik erachter of EAP of FSD op een gebruikte Tesla overdraagbaar is op de nieuwe eigenaar (en dus bij de auto blijft) en niet gewist wordt als je de auto in een nieuwe Tesla account zet?

Of note:
Adaptive Headlight Improvements - Headlights now adapts for curves in the road ahead of you and illuminate farther when you’re driving on a motorway.
Autopilot Suspension - Changes to suspension policy
Hot Weather Improvements - This release includes AUTO HVAC improvements for hot weather. The A/C cools down the cabin faster, and maintains comfort at lower noise levels.

De eerste firmware in de 2024.20 reeks rolt uit. Vooralsnog niet veel nieuwe features te zien:

Hi guys,

Had a bit of an accident with my model 3 a few months ago. Swerved into a curb to avoid having a major crash and damaged both front and rear drivers side rims and tyres. The drive just hasn’t been the same at high speeds since that. When driving around town it’s fine but when doing over 50mph the drive isn’t as smooth as it was. Had new tyres fitted and rims repaired and the problems has got better but it’s still not as smooth as it was when going at high speeds. Just feels like a really rough drive now. Any ideas what may be the cause?

Thanks guys

My '23 Model S Plaid just hit 5K miles. Just got it detailed, and wow! The paint looks deeper and glossier than ever. Plus, the interior feels brand new again. Anyone else think detailing is a game-changer for keeping my Tesla S in top shape?

Hello all

We have been using Spotify in the car for a while and our little boy has created a mammoth playlist using “Liked Songs”.

This is on the account that is linked to the Tesla subscription.

We have now gone to Spotify for our home music and want to transfer / share / link to the Liked Song list in the car so that we can use it on the new home account.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Not that the glove box is big enough to put much, but I am avoiding putting anything of weight/substance in my Model S plaid because I'm worried the usb will take damage, or dislodge if hit with something inside the glove box. Is there a way to block off this area so contents in the glovebox dont hit the USB stick?

I know there are organizers for the other models, but not seeing one for the 2024 Model S.

Suggestions?

As the title states. I have a Model Y that I leave at my vacation condo for myself and my family to use. It frequently sits for a month or two at a time without driving. The past few years I haven't had any issues. I leave it at 50% and plugged in with the normal mobile connector. I most recently drove the car in late February and set up my phone as the phone key and did all the software updates to get it up to date. I somehow lost my phone key connection in my app (I signed out and back in and it still not reconnecting) Now when I am on my car in the tesla app, I have lost all ability to set my charge level, security settings, etc. Is there any way I can remotely disable the Phone Key so that I can get these controls back in the app?

Bedacht dat het misschien ook wel eens goed is om een positief verhaal te posten, over een Tesla Service Center.

Ik had op mijn MYLR 2023 een adjustment nodig van de charge port omdat ik steeds de melding kreeg "kan niet vergrendelen" met de bijgeleverde kabel. Besloot na een jaar maar eens een service request in te schieten. Later voegde ik eraan toe dat ik iets onder de auto hoorde bij harde zijwind, waarschijnlijk een bodemplaat los ofzo. Handig, alles in de app.

Bij bezoek 1 was ik best onder de indruk van de procedure, alles via de app, in principe niemand nodig. Super makkelijk inleveren, boven wat werken en drinken terwijl ik wacht. Reparatiestatus makkelijk te volgen en alles via chat in de app, indien nodig. Het duurde wat langer en kreeg van de (vriendelijke) medewerker een X Plaid mee als leen auto. 's avonds de auto's omgeruild, lang na sluitingstijd. Fantastisch toch? Persoonlijk vond ik dit beter dan bij BMW en Honda, de "ouderwetse" manier zeg maar.

Bleek dat ik door een eerder gemiste verkeersdrempel schade had gereden aan de onderkant, bevestigingsbout van de plaat was kapot gereden. Had geen idee, maar een paar maanden eerder wel een keer te hard over zo'n ouderwetse hoge drempel gereden omdat ik hem over het hoofd zag. Dat dus. Wel duur. Kwamen dus nog 2 betaalde bezoeken achteraan voor een beugel en een nieuwe plaat. Ook dat liep prima en geeft mij hoop voor als ik ooit nog service nodig heb. Netjes de kosten van te voren in de app. Betalen in de app. Inleveren, ophalen, alles makkelijk. Stond vandaag in een half uurtje weer buiten en reed in mijn auto weg, met niemand gepraat en alles netjes opgelost. Fantastisch toch?

Het mooiste was overigens de leenauto, buiten dat het een X plaid was. Je krijgt een ping in je Tesla app, er komt een auto bij en je stapt in met je telefoon als sleutel. Seamless. Het liedje op Spotify ging verder waar hij in mijn eigen auto gebleven was. Dit is echt een aantal jaar verder dan "old automotive" hoor, iig de merken die ik ken. Hier hebben ze goed over nagedacht.

Vandaag stonden ze overigens aan drie autos te werken in de buitenlucht, dus schijnbaar is er genoeg te doen

Installed HomeFlex hardwired CH50 with NEMA connector.

I was told it needed two 4gauge cables and either 70 or 80 amb breaker, but the unit only accepts 6 gauge and 80 is not legal here. 70amp achieves the same results according to the instruction booklet. I pay the extra $100 to bump up from the 60 amp thinking 80% is 52amp and my max net will be 50amp/12kw.

No, it’s 48amp/11kw
Ok, yes that’s better than Tesla 45amp/10kw but I’m not happy with the false advertisement and the waste of the upgrade money!
Tesla’s chart shows a max input of 11.5amp for home charging and I’m not getting that either.


Has anyone had better results?

I have been reading allot of articles lately that say the model 3 (even the new one with UWB) are susceptable to radio relay attacks, and BLE relay attacks.
I have an older model 3 (2018). I don't think there is any fix for non-highland models?

However most articles are just repeated news (not primary source) and don't go into enough detail for me to understand the actual problem. Is the bluetooth hack actually a thing or are they talking about keyfob attacks or something else?

Is there a way to disable the bluetooth as a key option? (just delete all the bluetooth keys?).

Should I instead use the key card to unlock / lock and drive the car from now on, or is that just as susceptable if someone is using one of these relay attack devices?

Thanks!

Hello all,

I'm trying to have an informed discussion with someone who asserts that replacing a Tesla battery out of warranty costs $25K. I've demonstrated that such replacements for Model 3/Y can be around $13K-$15K, but he's now moved the goal posts, calling those "stripped down" cars.

I've seen a few accounts of oow Model S battery replacements, and I know the costs can vary (new vs. remanufactured, etc). I think $25K is a little high.

Can anyone share (preferably) firsthand accounts of what it has actually cost to have one of these replaced (with a new or reconditioned battery) by Tesla? I'm tired of the FUD.

Thanks,

Todd

Hey everyone,

I often get asked about how the suspension feels on my Tesla Model Y Performance (MYP) and other year models I've owned. For context, I've had a 2021 Model Y Long Range (MYLR), a 2021 MYP, a 2023 MYP with comfort suspension, and now a 2024 MYP Austin-built in Quicksilver. Here’s my take on each, short and sweet:

2021 MYLR with 20s:
The suspension is rough. I mean, really rough. Going over any bump is like a field day in the back for passengers. It can be quite uncomfortable at times.

2021 MYP with 20s:
About the same as the MYLR, but with a bit more booming. It almost sounded and felt like the vehicle might fall apart at some point. Not the best experience, especially for a performance model.

2023 MYP with 20s:
Greatly improved. It’s almost perfect for a performance vehicle. It can still be rough at times, but it's nothing like the previous years. A noticeable upgrade from the 2021 models.

2024 MYP with 21s:
I’m not sure what kind of sorcery they have going on at Giga Texas, but it’s working! This vehicle is the most solid-feeling and quiet Tesla I’ve had out of the four, including the 2021 Model S Long Range Refresh I had. The steering feels incredibly smooth, and bumps are deadened instantly. I even tested it on the bumpiest road in Rhode Island, Rt 3 in West Warwick (if you know, you know), and it passed the test with an 8.5 out of 10.

It's great to see these vehicles getting better and better, addressing things we all experience and feel. Kudos to Tesla for the continuous improvements!

NOTE: If a mod sees this post, can you please update to reflect the Performance model in the title? Thank you ahead!

Evening all,

I've just found a Tesla keycard on the ground infront of stall 3b at Grantham Supercharger. I've handed it into WH Smith where it awaits collection.

Mods, apologies if this is in the wrong place, first time posting.

Tesla hasn't responded yet, but I just bought a 2023 MXP with 19km on it. Sales rep said it was never a demo car and was just moved from storage lot to dealership and was put on display at front for the entire time.

However after I paid for it yesterday, they told me the warranty started in January in the app, and not May. Anyone else have this happen?

Named Lunar Silver on the S/X. Finally, now they just need to add a proper RED interior option.

I'm guessing most of still have a gas guzzler along with our daily drivers(Model 3's)

Post pics of your EV stable mates that still need dinosaur juice

Recently picked up one of my dream cars back in March....a minty gen 1 Audi R8 with gated manual



part of the deal was the wife got to pick out our Jeep replacement, so we last month we picked up this Bronco Sport

I mean before the car is almost completely stop moving, I just don’t want to wait for that 1 to 2 seconds and just press “P” and the car would be like applying a strong brake by itself to instantly stop the car . Would that damage the car? Same question for changing from forward to reverse when trying to park a car, thanks!

I'm reading a lot about the Hankook Ion Evo tyres and having just discovered a nail in one of my tyres, it is forcing my hand to dive in to get all four tyres fitted as they're all approaching the legal limit.

However, i cannot find these anywhere for the 19" rim size

Is it a stocking issue? As time is of the essence, i'm seeing the Michelin PS5 as a viable option for £700 fitted.

Thoughts?

Been wondering for awhile… to drive in reverse, does MY have a planetary gear like ICE cars or can the motors run backwards?