Got an email earlier on today from Tesla saying this -

''We’re offering 15,000 miles of free Supercharging with the purchase of your new Tesla.* This offer is only valid while stocks last.

Explore our immediately available vehicles, ready for delivery including. Order and take delivery before 30 June 2024 to benefit''


It's almost making me pull the trigger on an inventory M3P. Does anyone happen to know the expiry date of the free miles though, as it is not mentioned on the email or on their website?

Cheers.

Morning all,

Looking to swap out of a company car and into a car allowance, but having a slight dilemma in where to put my money, options below

2024 MY SR on personal lease, £399/month with 9 payments upfront, circa £18k over 3 years.

2022/23 MY LR on the used market, ~ £30k, would finance using 50% cash savings and 50% low cost loan (pre-approved)

Usage would be circa 10-15k per year (15k would increase personal lease costs). 1 return trip every 3 weeks (220 miles each way, motorway), would install a home charger and have access to free office charging.

My gut feeling is that the loan/cash option would be financially better, but obviously it would start to lose the standard warranty fairly soon (if under 50k miles). The LR would also suit my usage a little better with the longer trip.

Crystal ball time on future EV values but would prefer to own the asset as it gives a little more flexibility...thanks all.

In early April this year, about a week after my tyres were replaced, the front-right TMPS sensor went on the blink. Then a few weeks later the rear-right TMPS also went dark, followed by the rear-left last week. I now have 1 TPMS left that works. My car is 2 years and 7 months old and based on my research on these forums it seems like 5-7 years is the normal lifespan I should expect. At first I thought they were damaged by the tyre shop, but given their time-delayed failures it's more logical to assume the batteries have just died and they came from the same batch. (Could be wrong though)

When the first one died, I raised a Service Request with Tesla and they came back with a $265 cost estimate to replace it. This is the first car I've owned with a TPMS system and honestly, it seems like a pain the butt. I've been checking the tyre pressures with a gauge...you know...like EVERY OTHER CAR I OWN AND HAVE EVER OWNED and all is well, but the Error Message is getting annoying.

Curious if anyone else has had these fail prematurely, or perhaps is this actually premature or is it normal? Do I have a warranty claimable item or am I just up for $1000 to replace them all (most likely very soon) every 2-1/2 years if I care enough to get rid of the stupid error message.

Interested in other owners experiences with these things.

Thank you in advance for your thoughts.

Morning all,

My model 3 is due its first MOT. I'm going to take it to a friend's garage, he hasn't done MOT on a Tesla before.

Does the car need to be put into any sort of service/brake mode before being put on the roller brake test?

Thanks.

Interesting and annoying issue, will probably have to raise this one with Tesla but it syncs the seat and steering wheel position between the two cars. You’d think this is good but seems they are both different.

I got in my Highland originally I had to adjust the seat and steering wheel a bit. Too busy collecting to think much of it and assumed the Highland just had different settings to the older Model 3. This does not seem to be the case as my wife’s car is set to preheat for school run so as I was doing that this morning I took her car.

Got in, foot on the pedal and find out it sets me up gangster style, laid back and wheel only just in reach. So I fix that and I did hit save just to check that when I get in my highland I’ll probably be pushed up too close and too upright again.

Guessing not many, if any will have two Model 3’s and Highland vs non to have experienced this. They clearly need to be treated as different cars when it comes to driver seat and wheel position.

I live in the Bay Area, near the original Tesla headquarters and factory.

After upgrading to FSD 12, it makes more mistakes in choosing lanes. The following example was just 1.5 miles away from Tesla, I don't know if they really have tested on the road.

Driving on Mission Blvd east-bound, and then I-680 north-bound. FSD 11 worked fine here. After FSD 12, it always picks the rightmost lane on Mission Blvd, and then cuts to the left at the last second, maybe 20 feet before it goes south. Because of the traffic, it is very dangerous. (The second pictures shows the FSD behavior)

There are similar situations on I-580 entrance. On some local street, it chooses the middle lane before a left turn or right turn.

Hoi,
Ik heb meerdere vragen waarop ik op het internet geen antwoord kon krijgen. M3 21 LFP 70k KM Batterij health 93%

Error code en Tesla SC claimt dat dit door een 3th party kabel komt
Context:
Ik heb in mijn m3 21 lfp een kabel die de kleine speakers activeert. Een paar maanden later (na wat software updates) kreeg ik de error ui_a112 USB device malfunction.
Nu claims Tesla SC dat dit door de 3th party kabel komt. Ze hebben de USB stick en port vervangen zonder succers, hun volgende stap zou zijn de MCU vervangen.

Vraag:
Ik las dat in de US Tesla SC moet kunnen bewijzen dat de error door die kabel komt en niet andersom. Is dit in Nederland ook zo?

Error code en Tesla SC wil dit niet oplossen
Context:
Sindsdat ik eigenaar van mijn auto ben krijg ik UI_a161 E-call temporarily unavailible. Deze melding komt 1 tot 2x per dag. Ondertussen zijn er 2/3 SC bezoeken geweest om dit op te lossen maar SC kan er geen oplossing voor vinden.

Vraag:
Is deze error code normaal? "hoort dit er gewoon bij"? Hoe kan ik dit oppakken met Tesla SC?

Error code charge port
Context:
Paar weken geleden en vandaag krijg ik de volgende error code CP_a054 en PCS_a022. Dit na het inbrengen van de tesla wallconnector gen 2 in de charge port. Laden lukt dan niet, wel als ik de mobile connector er in doe.

Vraag:
Eerst maar een SC afspraak starten hiervoor..

My wife just got a used model 3 , we are totally new to it so don’t really understand the software that well yet .

My first questions is : does the model 3 have full self driving capability? If not do you have to buy the software ?

Next : if this is a paid software and the previous owner got it , how can I know that it’s installed ? This may seem like a silly question , but we are too scared to activate it on the stalk as we’ve literally only just got the car .

I have a screen shot

Thanks for your help

Alerted by post of @rx80,
Video of new V4 Superchargers at Chatswood in Sydney's North.


Poster reports 8 V4s.
Will still be some time off as while the stalls are up there are no power cables in the conduit.

At The Mix @ Chatswood Place, 260 Victoria St on B3 (bottom level) which is at the far end of the Victoria St shopping strip, a different location to the much larger Chatswood Chase that had been listed in NSW grant docs.

Also seemingly 8 V4s, rather than 9 listed in the Govt docs, but I suspect this is simply an altered and relocated site.

As a much smaller centre (Aldi, a few coffee shops, food places and specialty shops) it's probably a better option than Chatswood Chase which has a very large carpark that can be time consuming to get in and out of.

I have MCU1 so I haven't been getting any FSD updates. I still have the "request FSD beta" button, although it's not doing anything at the moment. I'm on very old firmware (2022).

Can anyone tell me approximately when Tesla removed the "request FSD beta" button? I assume it was removed in a 2023 or 2024 firmware update.

Are all FSD-capable cars are getting FSD as part of each new software update now? It just happens automatically and all you have to do is turn it on in the settings?

California PG&E, ~12kw Solar, 2x Powerwalls, NEM2, EV-A rate plan.

Finished the year with NEM charges of -$586.

$495 of non-bypassable charges, so my true-up bill is $360 after minimum delivery charges.

Is the -$586 in NEM credits just gone? I don’t receive compensation for this in any way?

What should my strategy be for the next year? Seems like I should be trying to reduce NBCs and consume more on site?

This is all so very confusing

LOL yet another thread about my new purchase of a 2017 75D I'm really enjoying the car so far, but once in a while, when I get in the car to drive away, the screen on the dash stays black for 20 seconds or so and won’t let me put the car in gear until the screen comes on. Normal?

A permit (PZ 22-16) was granted in Novemebr 2022 for a 2600 ft drive through and retail building and a small parking lot addition to the TA truck stop at 327 ruby rd. In the February 2024 meeting minutes the applicant submitted a slight change to the layout. In the meeting minutes the mention they have a lease with Tesla for 16 chargers in the new lot. As of this month they have started site excavation.

Hopefully the supercharger shakeup doesn’t ruin this one, it fills a hole between Vernon and Sturbridge. Now if we can just get one in Killingly .

Hello!

I've heard from my neighbors that there are people around my area stealing "parts" of electric vehicles.
For reference, I park in my house, behind a gate, but no garage.

Last night, when I parked, the gate was open and about to close. I saw a guy in a car who noticed the open gate, and then pulled the reverse to check.
As soon as he noticed me, he continued going forward, but then he went around the house to check again.

I've called the police to let them know.

So my question is: what's the best safety measure in this situation?

I will leave of course sentry mode on, but I'm curious to know if there is a way for ill-intentioned people to steal components without triggering the alarm.
I suspect, if they unplug the 12V battery when sentry mode is on, alarm should trigger, right?

Is there something that I'm missing, or maybe, what would you do in this situation?

Thanks a lot for your time!

Hi everyone,

I'm planning to purchase a couple of used Teslas and could really use some guidance on a few concerns I have:

1. Supercharger Access: I know that any Model S with the 40kWh battery is blocked from using Tesla Superchargers. However, I'm uncertain about other models and configurations. Is there a reliable way to determine if a specific Tesla is blocked from Supercharger access? Any tips or resources would be greatly appreciated.

2. Battery Information: One of the Teslas I'm considering mentions in the description that it is “missing the battery.” The seller doesn't know which battery this refers to; it's simply what they were told when they received the car. How can I determine whether this is referring to the 12V battery or the main drive battery? (The screens all turn on and the center screen says it is a p85, my understanding is that would not happen if the drive battery was missing. I was also told that the 12V runs the screen so I am lost on this one)

3. VIN Information: If I have the VIN for the vehicles, would contacting Tesla directly provide any useful information (such as possibly the answer to my questions previous)? I'm specifically wondering if Tesla can give me a detailed history or status report on the car, and if so, what is the best way to request this information from Tesla?

Any advice, resources, or personal experiences you could share would be incredibly helpful. Thanks in advance for your help!

Best regards,
The Mad Mechanic Mike

Hai! Nieuwe Tesla gebruiker hier! Afgelopen weken heb ik mijn M S uit 2018 leren kennen en alle functies redelijk onder de knie gekregen. Mede dankzij dit forum! Er is alleen 1 ding waar ik de vinger maar niet op kan leggen.

Het treedt op als ik net een kruising / stoplicht voorbij ben en de twee rijstroken door middel van een verdrijvingsvlak worden teruggebracht tot 1 rijstrook. Mijn Tesla laat dan een dubbele beep horen. Geen keiharde nare waarschuwing maar vergelijkbaar met zo'n "gordels vast" waarschuwing in het vliegtuig. Ploenploeng.

Voor de duidelijkheid, ik rij dan dus al op de rijstrook die overblijft en ik hoef niet meer in te voegen. Het treedt ook op als er geen enkele andere weggebruiker om me heen is. Ik heb alle lane assist achtige hulpsystemen uitgezet maar deze waarschuwing blijft maar komen. En ik vind 'm best overbodig aangezien er geen enkel gevaar dreigt. De muziek / radio gaat ook zachter op dat moment en dat is best storend.

Het zal vast een beginnersvraag zijn, maar het rare is dat ik het probleem en / of antwoord nog nergens heb kunnen vinden bij mede Tesla gebruikers. Heeft iemand anders dit misschien ook wel eens gehad. En is er een mogelijkheid om het uit te zetten?

as the title says really.

just over 6 months ago took the ModelS into service for a new front drive unit after one of their techs confirmed it was faulty (had the issue for 30K miles but Tesla refused to accept it on earlier visits). The thing with that visit was that Tesla arranged it when the part came in. As such I literally could not communicate with them in any way whatsoever, as even in-app messaging was not available as it was not me that arranged the appointment.
What an absolute farce. I remain infuriated that I had previously instructed them to leave the faulty air suspension strut in the vehicle that I was also getting replaced at the same time, but because I couldn't communicate with them this got lost. They also replaced the two scroll wheels - with ones that didn't work properly, I assumed (incorrectly now it seems) that it was software so waited for a few releases but they remain faulty. I literally did not have a single communication during that service and whilst Tesla may be proud of that achievement, it was so detestable an experience I highly doubt I will ever purchase another Tesla. I certainly don't recommend them to anyone these days.

The cars may be fundamentally good (still nothing I would replace the Model S with?!), but the Company is plain abusive of it's relationship with its customers which to anyone rational is just plain self-defeating.

To the present; Don't use the car so much these days, but when the FDU started playing up again, apart from sounding like an old washing machine since it was fitted, it now has a similar issue with vibration and the differential (is this a common trait with these?) I thought I'd get it back into service to get it sorted, together with replacing the scroll wheels again and sorting a clunk in the rear suspension.

Now it seems they won't even book an appointment unless I approve their costs.

The car is under extended Tesla warranty, even so I am being asked to pre-approve £550+ worth of costs that Tesla can charge me irrespective of what actually transpires before I can even get an appointment. I cannot attempt to communicate with them in any way whatsoever (even if I could, I expect it would be pointless).

That's just disgusting.

With Tesla doing away with the wheel nag using the in cabin camera
I wonder if older Teslas can retrofit the newer in cabin camera that has the IR emitters.
According to the service manual it seems like a simple swap
That is if the connections are all the same
Would be worth while to swap for no wheel nag.
Any thoughts on this

This is all new to me as a newbie Tesla owner of a model 3, it’s dated 2022 and done over 14800 miles so far.
The car will be 2 years old this coming September 2024, have checked history in app but nothing is showing.
So they say 2 year check of brakes plus cabin filters, I’m in the UK and will use the Northampton service centre centre so they can look and check over the car etc while doing the work required.
As anyone done this and what kind of costs are expected, Cheevely Ev do mobile work and does a lot more jobs on the car for the same cost.
Just a little confused what is best, as still under warranty until September 2026

ev days are gone...

I use the term Black Start from my old Power Generation Station engineering days....it refers to a Power Plant's ability (or lack thereof) to initiate operation without grid power.

My Tesla generation system has been in operation for a year now, during which we've had 29 grid power interruptions. Two of those were noticeable without referring to the app, the second of which was within the last hour.

This time, after the noticeable power interruption, the Powerwalls took over but solar production ceased. The app periodically showed .2 or .3 kw Solar, but mostly zero. After about 15 minutes, the app informed me that grid reconnection was underway. This was a process I had not seen previously - in the past I've been looking at the app when grid power resumed, and the red X simply disappeared. Of course, in the past solar production was not interrupted either. That reconnection process took another 10 minutes or so, long enough for me to check my grid operator's app which assured me that my grid power was on. I guess the Gateway was booting up, and solar production resumed.

I think this may have been the lack of Black Start capability I've heard about. If grid power had not resumed, my system may not have resumed solar generation, and after battery depletion we would have lost power to the house. Can anyone with knowledge about this confirm? Please keep in mind that in my Power Engineering career I was a piping engineer, not an electrical engineer..... thanks

Edit:
My Powerwalls were at 96% SOC and accepting about 11kw when the grid power went out. It just occurred to me that the high SOC may have resulted in a similar reaction by the Gateway.

I have 2 2015 MS P90DL and with every other update I lose regen strength and hope and pray with the next update it comes back. Can anyone else chime in with their experience? I'm currently on 2024.8.4 and 2024.20.1 is ready for download and install.

Hi all

I currently have a Mercedes C class and thinking to upgrade to a Model Y.

Never had an electric car before.

We are a family of 4 with two kids under 10.

Welcome your thoughts on how you’ve felt with a Model Y and points you wish you knew before you bought one!

Anything I should be looking out for when buying? Thinking to get a used one rather than new.

Thanks!

Hi guys, I was wondering if there is anyone here who could check data for me and see if that pack is healthy.

Car in question is Tesla Model S 75D from July 2018 with 147,212 miles / 236,195km

I have purchased Scan my Tesla accessories and trying to get to the bottom of data, I mean everything looks OK to me but it is very hard knowing without comparing these figures to a similar car to mine.

Things which are worrying, maybe they are not.

Battery current SOC is at 57%

*Battery voltage is showing as 320V - should we be concerned here or not at all? I believe 75kwh packs are 350V not 400V so maybe at higher SOC it will be closer to 350V?

*Battery degradation, it is showing as nominal capacity of 62KwH, which depend what figure we actually use for brand new battery pack, it is about 13% degradation, seems a bit high considering that DC charging was only about 30% of total charging, the rest was AC charging at home.

*Cells - well the number of cells looks strange to me, it appears that there are 83 not 84 cells? Does it sound correct?

*Cells voltage, it seems to be varying from 3.847V to 3.853V does it seems correct or too low, again it might be ok at 57% SOC, am I reading i right?

Based on pics, is there anything else in the data I should be concerned about please?

Anyone else having the issue where your Tesla is unable to check for an update (even after 24 hours)? I have two Model 3s (one on 2024.3.25 and one on 2024.14.6), and neither has checked for an update since June 2nd. I have tried reboots, hard shutdowns, recycled my wifi router and using my cell phone hotspot.