Recent content by davewill

Sorry to break the bad news, but you only have two choices, neither of which will guaranty that you only charge between midnight and 5AM. You can set the start time, as you found, or you can set the end time of the off-peak period, and the car will try to calculate when it should start. My...

Calling people who question you "trolls" is very bad form. If Chargepoint is misrepresenting their product, we would be happy to agree with you, but we haven't been able to see where they have. You've made assertions without evidence. If you tell us where those assertions come from, then we can...

Yes, a lot of people don't understand how Sentry mode works. It doesn't notice an event, then start recording, it records constantly and when it detects an event, saves the current recording. So, the drain is constant.

In short, the adapters for RVs and the adapters for EVs are wired differently. Neither will work for the other use. Get one labeled for EV use and limit the charge rate to 24a and it would work fine. The EVSEadapters link above is nice because it will limit charging rate to the max that 30a...

Tesla had the advantage of not having to work with anything but Tesla vehicles. They didn't even implement billing for the first several years, just gave it away free, without worrying about making money. When they did do it, they could hook into their own back end, and didn't have to accept...

Yes, but laws are not the same and this whole thread is about U.S. code in regards to disconnects. Plus, you don't even say what you're trying to do. Plug in a mobile connector? Install a wall connector?

Everything in this thread is specific to North America. Your question doesn't even make sense. All good for what? Anyway, you should probably ask in the regional forum for your area.

Do you really want to subject the battery in your expensive CT to extra cycling on a regular basis? I'd rather add another Powerwall.

Congrats for answering 4 year old posts in a thread last replied to 2 years ago, and getting your facts wrong. A 240v circuit is made up of two 120v phases, which makes it less than 150v to ground.

The relays should never be carrying significant current when closing or opening. The car commands them to close, checks the voltage, then starts drawing current. Same when you press the button to remove the plug, the car stops drawing current, then commands the relays to open (or the removal of...

The chance of both of the other modules failing at the same time isn't very high. 16a charging is enough to get to work and to the service center. I'd probably live with 32a until and unless a second module failed.

I could see that happening if the EVSE is malfunctioning and signaling a higher charge rate than it actually supports. If the car started pulling more than than 30a or so, the EVSE might abort the charge. Many cars max out around 30-32a anyway, so would just work, but Teslas go higher. If you...

With the burnt look of the PC board, I'd have probably added jumper wires to the back of the board to parallel the traces that carry the charging current. Couldn't hurt.

I went back to find @FalconFour's writeup on the DIY retrofit and he says Oct 2020, so I assume that's the cutoff. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/retrofit-ccs-compatibility-onto-earlier-na-model-3-diy-approach.251046/

You may want to check that you don't already have CCS compatibility by going into software->additional info. Some cars of that vintage did get the CCS capable ECU if I remember right.