I believe I live in the real world, but its possible this is an elaborate simulation. In the world I inhabit, I had 2 power inverters not function reliably using the cigarette lighter plug in my 23 Y. 1 was a ryobi brand that could use the 12V plug or an 18V battery, and the other was some chinese brand off amazon that claimed it was suitable for the Tesla 16V. Both of these devices work correctly with a voltage regulator in line that reduces voltage to within spec for 12V automotive systems.
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Living with the 16v LV battery
- Thread starter TheTinRam
- Start date
How about replacing the 15V Lithium Battery with a 12V Drop in replacements like the U27- 12XPs (Lithium Iron Phosphate) from Valence?
The Tesla won't recognize that replacement or throw some error messages. That 12V replacement not only differs in voltage, but also in capacity and charge characteristics. All of these combined will cause the Tesla to not play nice with it.
fiehlsport
Tire Guy
I haven't - I've seen plenty of people using the high-end mainstream radar detectors without any issue. I'm using a Uniden R4, others use Valentine V1, etc.
Are there certain detectors that are sensitive so we can avoid recommending them?
Any properly designed automotive radar detector would have overvoltage protection. Or even work at any voltage between 12 and 24V (and probably a bit higher).
Apparently there are improperly designed ones -
"12 Volt" Power Outlet in my Tesla Model S Plaid Has Burned Out 3 ~$1000 Escort Redline 360c detectors
I was driving my 2022 Model S Plaid with an Escort Redline 360c radar detector on the windshield and running waze as I always do. I noted a state trooper coming at me on the other side of the median but thought nothing of it given I got no signal on the detector. 30 or so seconds later the...
teslamotorsclub.com
I have an ICECO JP30 Refrigerator Freezer that works fine with my 2023 Model Y. It lives in my Model Y. It uses a SECOP Compressor unit which is the successor to the old Danfoss BD Series compressor units. Their controller has a universal input that covers the full 12 VDC and 24 VDC lead acid battery voltage ranges. The fixed under voltage lockouts don't work anymore, but the fridge runs fine. I never installed their app on my phone.
Back in 2022 I bought a 12/24 VDC input USBC charger. Blitz Power 120W Super Fast Car Charger Type C is the unit. No issues working in the 2023 Model Y. I bought it so I could use it in a 24VDC tractor. It also works fine when powered by my 6S3P LiFePO4 battery I use for recharging quad copter battery packs in the field.
So, I'm getting myself in the camper world and I want to be able to charge my popup's battery with the car. Not having the trailer wired with a DC regulator is making me go around things more than I like, but I'm a tinker.... I think I'm going to wire a DC regulator to the trunk's lighter plug (will tap it behind) and connect it to a charge regulator.
I've also learned that MPPT charge controllers accept a variable voltage input so I'm wondering if I could just wire the MPPT charge controller into the car's "12v" plug and let it charge the RV battery but I need to know how to limit the current draw of the controller to something around 10A
I've also learned that MPPT charge controllers accept a variable voltage input so I'm wondering if I could just wire the MPPT charge controller into the car's "12v" plug and let it charge the RV battery but I need to know how to limit the current draw of the controller to something around 10A
This is the problem. Some power supplies gracefully lower voltage to limit current, but most don't. My suggestion is to use a DC to DC battery charger, and set it's maximum draw current. Something like the Orion XS maybe can do it. It has a 17 VDC input maximum which I haven't confirmed is greater than what the Tesla's 16V battery system maxes out at.
One could hook into the cigarette lighter power circuit and limit to something under 12 Amps. Obviously one needs to share that 12 Amps with other loads. The power for charging would then be fed to the proper pin on the trailer connector, then the charger mounted on the trailer. Fuse everything. Shorts will happen.
I found one of those large power center with LFP batteries included an has a DC charging pin limited to 8A, an additional DC input for solar for the future, plus AC input when on shore. Seems the easiest solution
I also opened a service case to know if Tesla has a solution and they said not yet
