unfortunately, my hitech car decided not to alert me to a low concrete barrier as I backed out and thus ended up hitting my front and front-side badly (also the light). probably $3k to $5k in damage. I don't understand why a hi-tech car with 359 cameras on it could neither alert me nor stop before I drove into it.

I plan to pay for the repairs myself. are there any good west los angeles body shops that quote me not as a "milk-the-insurance" customer? although I have the standard model 3 in white, I presume body shops don't have easy access to recycled parts from rear-ended vehicles, as I would be ok with those, too.

does anyone have a good recommendation?

Hi sorry for repeating thisquestions that may have already been answered but wanted to get the latest updates.

Are
There any track pads that don’t squeal like a banshee. I’ve had g-loc r-10’s and ohh my they squeal. My buddy had carbotech xp-12 and a little less squealing but they also have fitment issues at times. Any other recommendations for an effective track pad without the squeak. If not what are some other quality pads that don’t break the bank?

Hello, Are there any independent Tesla shops in D.C Metro area?

My warranty is ending in December, i would like a independent tech to do a complete check of my Model X.

Appreciate ny referrals.

Thanks

Hello,

I am new to the EV world and purchased a 2020 Tesla Model X LR+ to use for work travel and daily driving. Travel with this car will include 9+ hour trips to LA, 3hour to SF and multi-8 hour trips a few times a year.

I have already tinted everything with IR except the windshield... not a new topic.

However, I can convince a local installer to put Tint on a new windshield prior to installation. Did anyone try this?

Thanks for the info and knowledge this membership can provide in advance.

Has anybody have experience with the new Satonic Soft Close Frunk kit? From what I can see, the soft close mechanism doesn't involve the latch spring or cable. Supposedly, the mechanism closes the hood and then releases. I would assume this would reduce any issues about the hood getting stuck.

Yesterday (Nov 26th,2023) was the first time that I was out driving with the temperature dropping and rain/sleet/snow falling. I was on an interstate, in Omaha, and when passing under an overpass I would have to take my foot off the accelerator because traffic was slowing down, and each time I did the car would lose traction for second or two and I would feel the car start to swerve just a little. I think it was the fact that my battery was near 50% so regen was probably fully enabled that caused the regen braking to be so dramatic.

This problem was not limited to me, or just electric cars. As I drove I saw a number of cars/trucks that had hit the concrete divider wall between the different lanes of travel because they had lost control. I few I saw as it was happening. I noticed that underpasses were where the really 'slick' spots were, as letting off the accelerator on the open road didn't make my Model Y swerve, even slightly. But letting off the accelerator while under an overpass caused a noticeable momentary steering loss.

I know at one time you could set the amount of regen braking but I think originally my cars software had removed that option. Is that option still there or been added back, and would it help prevent the tires from skidding when you took your foot off the gas? As I said, letting my foot off the gas when I wasn't under an overpass didn't cause the loss of traction.

Any best practice to repair the yellow wire for the impact sensor wire under the driver side headlight bracket. Does the wire go to the cabin?

Hey folks,
So in my 2018 MS I’m at 22.32.9 and have FSD.
I see on other chats talk of HW 4.4 and other numbers but I have no idea what that means.
Is my software correct? The car says im
Up to date but I’m wondering while others are reporting later versions.
Sorry still a newbie.
Appreciate the help.

How quickly is the battery draining for y'all when doing HDPE? The last time I went there was one 20 min session when I lost 20%! (I may have been going too ham though lol) Thankfully there's a (single) 50A outlet at the track to charge with, but it definitely isn't fast enough to keep me eventually reaching close to 0%. The nearest supercharger is like 40 mins away unfortunately.

Wondering if I should go in chill mode so that I dont have to skip 1-2 sessions in the day to charge, though I saw someone here mention that it didn't reduce battery draw that much on the track.

Is there anyway to keep Santa mode without the signal playing Christmas bells when making a turn signal?

Has anyone been having trouble receiving music from streaming? Seems like everyday now that I keep seeing the circle going round and round

I had a problem for the last two weeks that I had to click "cable disconnect" at least twice to be able to pul the cable out. Because it just started to happen after the update, i thought this was a temporary bug.
Yesterday, i was unable to put the plug in! Only for the first 2 cm. Looking with the flashlight, i found that the left pin for cable fixation was still out. I used a small screwdriver, and put a little silicon spray on, and used a manual release. Now it works like new.
Just posting this in case anybody has similar issues.

Hello - I have a 2018 Tesla Model S and the wheel sensor cover on the inside of the liner is missing on one side. I believe it is part: 1051652-00-A OEM

Does anyone know if I need to remove the entire wheel liner to install the sensor or is this a part that can be popped in from the inside the wheel well?

Thank you

My wife and I use the walk-away door locks, and the car normally unlocks as we approach it with our phone keys. This worked flawlessly on our 2020 Model Y which we traded in for a 2023 Model Y in early August.. It also worked flawlessly on our 2023 Model Y for almost three months. We were therefore surprised when the new car started failing to unlock automatically after it had detected a sentry mode event. We first saw this behavior in the mid-October time frame, and we have had that experience at least 5 times since then. In those cases, we are forced to use a key-card or to use our Tesla app to unlock the car.

This leaves us wondering:
- Is this a "new feature" with a purpose?
- Is it a "software glitch" or a "software configuration" problem?
- Is there something wrong with the car?
- Is there something wrong with both of our phones? (They are both Google Pixel 5 phones, so Google could have made a software change.)

The only thing we know is: that this issue is inconvenient for us ... especially in cold weather since gloves have to come off to use the phone app or key card.

When it comes to troubleshooting: I've reviewed the car's "settings", removed and readded the phone keys, rebooted the car and the phones with my fingers crossed. That has not helped. We are hoping we can find a remedy for this issue. Worst case, we plan to disable sentry mode.

I recently brought my Model Y Tesla from the U.S. to a Ireland and I am having a HARD time finding an adapter to use with chargers on the road and also an adapter for my EU wall charger. The first two are my car and the third is the wall charger. The next one are the chargers in my town. Please help as I feel like I have a chain attached to me and can go so far. Before you ask why did I bring my car, I paid 75,000 for my 2022 when prices were very high and I did not have to pay tax when I relocated home. I am about to start I a new job that I have to drive everyday for an hour each way so this is URGENT. I have spent so much money on adapters that don’t work. I have also been to Tesla in Dublin, Ireland and they at least helped with a slow charger but of course all of the adapters are after market so they are careful with how much help they provide.

It's common knowledge that Wall Connector is the device standing between the circuit breaker (240V , N amps) and the battery charger inside the car.
The Wall Connector does not charge the car battery.
Does anyone know what else the Wall Connector exactly do during charging ?
From this forum, it seems like it monitor how many kWh are consumed for a charging session, (this value is slightly more than what the car reports)
Does it also monitor the current fluctuation, the wires temperature and automatically stops charging (or lower the charging current) to avoid an electrical catastrophe ?

Hello Friends,
I have 2023 Model Y and wanted replace puddle lights on all 4. I was able to replace both the front door puddle lights and it was pretty easy.
For some reason, I was not able to remove both rear door puddle lights. I tried to use the same screw driver I used for front doors and also the trim removal tool but no help.
Didn't want to push too hard as I felt the lights may break.

Any recommendation for this ?

Planning to purchase a MY LR 19" with tow hitch for a bicycle rack for two touring bikes. Questions for anyone for help:
1. What is the Rear camera view with bicycles on the rack (picture)?
2. What is the obstruction to the rear camera view, the rear sensors and the rear view mirror?
3. What is the obstruction by the bicycles to the rear brake and turn signals to vehicles behind?
4. Is there a bicycle rack or modification to a bicycle rack to place brake/turn signal lights on the rear of the rack?
I would prefer to haul the secured bikes in the interior as we have done for the last 20+ years in our Honda Odyssey, but the Model Y appears to have the largest opening yet can not accommodate two bicycles, front wheels off, upright securely. Any advice (except forget the bike) and experience will be thoroughly appreciated.

Does anyone run with an after market rear sway bar?
I am going to add lowering links and adjustable camber to a MXP awaiting VIN. I am looking at some reviews of the UP sway bar as helpful even off the track and figure may as well do all 3 together if I am going to do it...
Anyone use this or other bars and have thoughts? Is the sway bar on the MX the same before and after refresh and for plaid? Any trade offs other than warranty problems?
Thanks for any thoughts!

Okay so I've only had my MY about 2 months but I've been consistently having some issues with the phone disconnecting randomly which leads me to need my key card to operate the car. I've been in contact with service about this and have done some steps and it has temporarily gotten better. However it appears starts happening again, and one thing that seems to be a result of the phone not connecting consistently is that I am not getting the windows open notification. So a couple nights ago the passenger window was left open and it rained, not terribly hard but hard enough to get the floor mat wet. I immediately dried everything out and contacted service once again about the issue with the phone not communicating properly with the MY. Although in the past they have called me to resolve the issue the person this time was texting and there were long waits in between each text from her. In the midst of a lot of redoing of steps including removing key cards from the car screen, the front passenger safety restraint system fault appeared which I notified her about. She then switched from finishing any troubleshooting steps which I was in the middle of, to setting up an in-person appointment. Said driving was still safe. So while driving to Thanksgiving yesterday these additional icons appeared on the screen. I assume the one means the airbags, haven't been able to find the green one in my owner's manual yet. Does anyone have any insight on anything from why my phone is not getting the "windows left open" notification, to this consistently inconsistent problem with my phone key not working and needing the key card, or the two icons that now have appeared in addition to the fault.
I have completely dried out the mats that were wet and everything in the car is dry, but it's also very humid here lately so I am running the heater and the seat heater a bit more this morning to see if I can clear the fault since it's been suggested in previous posts that the fault that has appeared is due to moisture around the seat. Still trying to figure out what those icons are.

Is there a way to get the wiper fluid to squirt without having the wiper blades activate? I'm trying to diagnose a faulty spray nozzle.

I have a '13 S p85+ heat went out and the tesla service center kept jerking me around with a rental 3 times. Nearest service center is an hour away and I have kids in daycare. All of a sudden started popping codes like crazy.

BMS_f107
BMS_w107
MGS_u008
GEW_w018

unable to drive voltage supply to low on center console battery at 18%

Tesla called me and said its not PTC , HV battery is hosed.

I thought timing was a little to suspect so I changed out the DC-DC converter, PTC heater with a gen 3, and new 12v battery in the hopes that it would fix the issue.

Now it fired back up with

DL_u014 - unable to drive voltage supply to low
GTW_w018 - Electrical system power reduced vehicle may shut down unexpectedly
BMS_u018 - Maximum Batter charge level reduced OK to drive schedule service
BMS_u008 - Vehicle may not start service is required
BMS_f107 - Service is required Schedule service.

attached are all the things from scan my tesla. Am I hosed ? HV the only way ? is there something I can do to reset ? Now I can not seem to get the charging port to unlock. It opens , but wont unlock when I click the button. = (

Happy thanksgiving !

Hello everyone! Whenever I try to purchase the HomeLink upgrade from the app, the item does not appear in the app for me to even click on to purchase. When I go through the website, the way it is worded sounds like the module is available for a 2018 M3. I'm wondering if this is something that I can purchase.

I hate using a sunshade for for windshield, and I know that using it helps keep the car cooler... but does it really protect the dashboard? Are there any long-time owners out there who have experienced cracked dashboards (and wished they had used a sunshade)?

Was rear ended on the freeway. Do you all think it’ll be a total loss or repairable?