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250wh per pile to get performance rated range of 315 miles

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So I drove to work today, left the house with 218 miles range, drove 33 miles to work arrived with 184 left so I used 35 miles in 33

Now this is what I don’t get, the car has been parked outside for 4 hrs now and it says the range left is 172 miles so I some how lost 12 miles of range in 4 hrs since I got to work, is this unusual?

And I don’t have sentry mode or overheat protection on

The battery is likely colder this morning, which reduces its available energy. The "lost" range will likely return once the car warms up.

And one last comment/suggestion: Learn to ignore these types of (totally irrelevant 99+% of the time) fluctuations or risk ruining your enjoyment of an amazing vehicle.
 
The battery is likely colder this morning, which reduces its available energy. The "lost" range will likely return once the car warms up.

And one last comment/suggestion: Learn to ignore these types of (totally irrelevant 99+% of the time) fluctuations or risk ruining your enjoyment of an amazing vehicle.
I’m def enjoying, just trying to understand how the range works, so it’s likely the battery hasn’t lost that much power it’s just estimating that I have lost it?
 
But 80% of EV owners charge at home, so the local range is pointless to the majority.
Every word of what you just said in this sentence was wrong.

Why would these people NOT care about the range? Perhaps they do a LOT of local driving and want to be able to go longer without charging. Especially since charging at home is inherently slower (than a Supercharger).

Everything was wrong.jpg
 
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Yes.

It would help to know what ambient air temperatures you are generally at or your general area. As others mentioned, some of the things you observe may be due to temperature.
It was 35 this morning when I got to work but it’s warmed up to 60 degrees since then so it’s not cold anymore, now the car says 171, lost another mile
 
The EPA 'highway' test has a max speed of 60 and an average speed of 48.3. That is not fast at all. If you drive like that you will definitely get the EPA rated range.

I was going 50-55 and didn’t get the epa rated range going by my energy consumption, so epa must be slower than that
@David99 had the answer right in the first sentence of the post you responded to (emphasis mine). Even if you were truly going "50-55", that's an average of 52.5, which 8.7% faster than the EPA rating uses.

And this is not a linear relationship, so that 8.7% increase in speed would be be a more than 8.7% impact on your energy consumption.
 
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The % and the miles remaining are always estimates, just like the distance-to-empty reading in any ICEV.
But I think percentage is less inaccurate way of measuring. I believe it would be a snapshot of the the status AT THAT MOMENT (like the gas gauge in an ICE bucket).

Once you start throwing "miles remaining", it (inaccurately) estimates based on historic information - not just of the miles since the last trip, but of the history of the vehicle (although I would be curious how far back it takes into account - is it lifetime?)
 
But I think percentage is less inaccurate way of measuring. I believe it would be a snapshot of the the status AT THAT MOMENT (like the gas gauge in an ICE bucket).

Once you start throwing "miles remaining", it (inaccurately) estimates based on historic information - not just of the miles since the last trip, but of the history of the vehicle (although I would be curious how far back it takes into account - is it lifetime?)
I don’t get why everything is an estimate though why can’t just give the actual state of charge

If it’s at 70% and it tells me well we think it’s at 65% don’t do that just tell me it’s 70%

This would also tell you how much the battery has degraded if it won’t full charge anymore
 
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Oh if they are both estimates I’ll just leave on miles, I wish there was an actual kWh reading
Make sure to note my post right below yours about % vs. mileage. As someone with 84K+ miles on my car, I will attest that showing % is a much less stressful and much more reliable than miles. I can accurately guess what I need to do with % where I really can't with miles. More than once I have made the 22 mile commute from home to work (I charge at work) without having to stop at a Supercharger or change my driving habits despite the car telling me I need to (often arriving with just 2-3% as I knew I would).
 
I don’t get why everything is an estimate though why can’t just give the actual state of charge

If it’s at 70% and it tells me well we think it’s at 65% don’t do that just tell me it’s 70%

With all due respect, you are SO overthinking this...

Did you question your previous ICEV's distance-to-empty estimate, and demand that it be spot-on accurate at all times?? (as if that were even possible - it's not)

Stop worrying about things you cannot control (and which don't matter) and enjoy the car!
 
I don’t get why everything is an estimate though why can’t just give the actual state of charge

If it’s at 70% and they tell me well we think it’s at 65% don’t do that just tell me it’s 70%
While I don't know it for a fact, I do not believe it will be that far off when the car is parked - maybe a couple of points. But to get a an actual accurate reading, it needs to be a stable environment: so many factors are involved in this measurement. Someone with actual electrical engineering knowledge can answer this better though: I am only speaking from my own experience. YMMV

Last year I took a road trip with one leg stretching the car's range. When I left the previous SuC, it said I would make it to the next one with about 10% to spare. As I drove, I watched that % slowly drop (and I slowed down to compensate) until I started getting warnings that I would be arriving with a -2% charge (in other words: I wasn't going to make it). So, I dropped my speed down to 50 MPH (which was painful for me on the open highway) and kept hovering around a +1-2% arrival charge. In the last 10 or so miles of the trip, the arrival percentage crept up (and I sped up) and I pulled in with a 9% charge.
 
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With all due respect, you are SO overthinking this...

Did you question your previous ICEV's distance-to-empty estimate, and demand that it be spot-on accurate at all times?? (as if that were even possible - it's not)

Stop worrying about things you cannot control (and which don't matter) and enjoy the car!
But I think it is a good exercise for curious individuals and one many of us (on these boards at least) went through when we first got our cars. Owning/driving/maintaining an EV is quite different than an ICE bucket and we need to learn those differences.
 
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I don’t get why everything is an estimate though why can’t just give the actual state of charge

If it’s at 70% and it tells me well we think it’s at 65% don’t do that just tell me it’s 70%

This would also tell you how much the battery has degraded if it won’t full charge anymore
My understanding is that measuring the pack voltage is not an exact thing. As such, you will always get an estimate.
In addition, the car can’t ‘know’ exactly how you are going to drive, and in what environment.

If you want the nitty gritty, check out the energy graph. It will give you a silly amount of information about where the energy was used on your drive. It will also give recommendations on how to lower your energy use.

In the end, I echo the suggestions to just drive the car and enjoy it, once you have satisfied you curiosity,