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That happens to me every time I use USB. Apparently, the USB device is turned off when the car turns off/sleep after leaving the car for a few minutes. However, the car doesn't immediately power-up the USB before the sound system goes looking for the last playing source, presumably causing the car to select to the first one alphabetically before USB (i.e. Tidal; it selected something else before Tidal was added).I haven't listened to USB media in a while, but today I was. Every time I stopped, when I got back into this car, this was on the screen and I had to re-select the USB.
What? This actually works. I tried it when I had not used the USB in a week and it went right back to the album and track I was playing.And now that I've learned the "USB" voice command (just say "USB") when i get in the car...it actually starts up from the last played USB song!
Sadly, I had to pull out my USB stick out of my 2019 100d X due to continual system reboot failures (lol Tesla says nothing wrong with the computer, just a “bad” USB. Of course, a new one causes the same problem).
I’ve tried removing a few thousand songs but haven’t found the sweet spot yet where it can handle USB, Autopilot and rest of system needs.
Tidal has become the new go to (and I’ve started to download stuff) and even that caused a reboot.
Anyone else receiving a “USB device malfunction - I/O error” And/or “USB too slow for DashCam” ?
I have changed out USB thumb drives three times, so I believe it is the port. (17MS)
my usb issues went away the minute i started using an SSD hard drive partitioned into 3 sections (2 for music, his and hers, and a partition for the dashcam). instructions are somewhere on the Tesla 'net.
[V9] How to Format USB into 2 Partitions for DashCam and Music [Windows]
Introduction I find the requirement for a separate USB drive for music and the v9 dashcam feature to be annoying. Without some type of work-around, that would use both USB ports in the front of the car, leaving you with no USB port for phone charging. It's been reported that you can partition...teslamotorsclub.com
YMMV...but this solution (SSD) has been really, really, really reliable. i even cloned it and sometimes use the clone to ensure my backup works.
And now that I've learned the "USB" voice command (just say "USB") when i get in the car...it actually starts up from the last played USB song!
I listen to USB music 99% of the time in my car. As others have mentioned, you can use the "USB" voice command to resume playback: it has a decent success rate.I haven't listened to USB media in a while, but today I was. Every time I stopped, when I got back into this car, this was on the screen and I had to re-select the USB.
View attachment 807684
In the Audio Settings you can hide the audio sources you don’t use:Yep, I bet the Tesla employees have like demo Tidal accounts so they don't have to stare at those "nags" (advertisements) like the rest of us !
There is a minimum: you have to have three sources activeIn the Audio Settings you can hide the audio sources you don’t use:
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In my case, I prefer TIDAL, but I don’t use Spotify or Caraoke.
I held out as long as I could, but eventually had to take the car in for service and was "updated" to a current release that no longer shows my USB album art, among other downgrades. The new version spews a series of errors about my USB drive being corrupted or not formatted correctly, even though it apparently has no issues reading files on the drive or playing music from it. So I figured I'd try reformatting it anyway (GPT, FAT32, using the recommendations in that "How to Format USB" thread), but there was no difference... still getting the same errors.
The car supporting exFAT was mentioned in the PDF manual that I donwloaded before taking delivery in April 2021, and that's what I've used from day 1. I'm using a 512GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD that was repurposed from an old laptop, in a cheap USB-C - SATA adapter. The only problems I have ever had are from the USB bugs in the recent 2022.12.X software, but that's not the drive's fault.exFat will now work for USB format. i'm not sure what update made that change. you won't need a 3rd party format tool for larger drives. Win 10 natively will format exFat as large as u need.
I tried it on another SSD (not my original SSD formatted FAT32) and exFat is read just fine by the car. Both SSD drives are 250 GB.
I'm currently on 2022.12.3.2
Based strictly on what I read here and my own anecdotal experience, I think the biggest culprit is poor quality and counterfeit USB thumb drives partnered with less than stellar drivers in the car. I see a lot of people buying drives off of Amazon (even from "reputable dealers") and other non-secure channels. More often than not, the people experiencing issues are those who purchased that way. I had two SanDisk CZ600 Cruzer Glide USB 3.0 256 GB Flash Drives that I purchased at Costco when my car was new (one for music, one for Sentry). The ONLY reason I replaced them after almost two years was because of capacity (my music collection outgrew the 256GB). I am not a shill for Costco: I just have much more trust in their supply chain than Amazon and others.Somebody upthread a week or so back said they switched to an SSD drive and the car was happier than with a USB stick. I plan to try it.
This happened on all builds last weekend - it seems to be a change at the server, rather than in the car.new software update overnight (2022.12.3.16) and this am the "USB" voice command no longer works. WTH, Tesla? why the eff can't you get this right without effing up everything else? it's. in. sane. so not a happy camper right now.
As does "Change audio source to USB"This happened on all builds last weekend - it seems to be a change at the server, rather than in the car.
Apparently 'Switch to USB' works now