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Model 3 key fob: are there any known issues?

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Curious to see if there are any known issues with a Model 3 key fob. Mine seems to intermittently not work due to (seemingly) a bad connection with the battery. But as far as I can tell, all the metal contacts with the battery are intact and there should be no reason the key fob shouldn't work.

I ordered a brand-new one from the Tesla shop about a week ago. I got it today in the mail, popped in a new CR2032 3V battery, and successfully paired it with the car using the instructions on the touchscreen. However, when I pushed the key fob buttons, nothing happened.

Turns out it seemed to be an issue with the key fob not sensing the CR2032 battery. I had to keep reseating the battery for it to work. BUt even then, it would only work for a short time. The metal contacts on the inside of the key fob seem fine, but it's just so inconsistent. It will work fine for a few hours, then stop working, forcing me to re-open the key fob to reseat the battery.

Absent a 1 in 1000 chance the one I got is simply defective, dead on arrival, etc. has anyone else had issues with their key fobs? Part of the reason I ask is that a quick search turned up some results from a few years ago about Model X key fobs no longer working when the only change was a battery replacement & Tesla techs needing to order brand new key fobs.

EDIT: it could be user error, sure. But I've replaced the battery in my old Model S key fob multiple times and never had issues.
 
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My wife’s key fob has worked without issues for 3+ years. I have a mouse that loses battery contact that’s solved by aluminum foil enlarging the battery footprint. Also, I’d try a different brand of battery to rule that out. It’s a strange issue, for sure.
 
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My Model 3 fob has weird issues with the battery as well. It stops responding and I'd check the voltage at 3.00 VDC the first time. I popped a fresh one in, a few intermittent issues, and just today (2 month old CR2032 which was a fresh Duracell from Costco) it was 3.03 VDC

When I re-inserted this battery it worked fine again.
 
Try a known Mercedes Benz trick. ONLY use Panasonic Batteries. Duracell and Energizer ones seem to have gremlins in som tech. Our Mercedes still eats a battery every 6 months...but every other brand of battery lasts wayyyy shorter or malfunctions....who knows why?
 
I am on my second Duracell 2032 since Feb. Glad I keep a keycard in my wallet.

Wonder if the battery just lost connection and if I reseated would have worked. I tossed it earlier but curious.

I don't use the phone because it seems like if I walk near the car it will wake up with the phone? Not sure.

I have a 2020. Can I use a S or X fob that looks similar as a M3 fob? Seem cheaper on here used and eBay.
 
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I always check the CR2032 voltage after I pull it. Their voltage level should still be good, so I am not sure what's going on.

I've set up the Phone Key feature now, and was hesitant to use it because of power draw. But as long as I force close the app, it won't use power. And if I need to use the phone as a key, i Just start the app and it works right away. BUt I am still using the fob. It's on its 3rd or so battery now.
 
...and low voltage alert for FOB came today. Then cleared.

I added some material to help push it into the slot. If that doesn't work I'll address the coating.

When I ordered this Duracell 2032s from Amazon the package picture showed them without the child protection coating.

Next time I may buy the swiss brand Renata, which also have a reasonable following or Japanese Maxells.
 
I am thinking about buying the key fob for my M3. This post seems to highlight some issues with the fob.
Strange as the remote key for all other car brands work flawlessly. Especially the one that need to plug in to start the car, its battery is charged when plugged in. I never had the need to replace the battery of these remote keys during my ownership.
Some of the car only needs the key to be present in the car. I have no idea how long their battery last.