You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
You can see the part number of the rear strut by just looking through the wheel. Same with the front if you turn the wheel all the way to one side. Find it and then cross reference it. You should be able to google up the MYP part numbers. I believe the changes over the years are the last letter with F being when it switched to “comfort” suspension (but I could be wrong on the letter part). Your screenshot from Reddit shows an H. Also keep in mind that different factories may use different part #’s too.BTW, this guy calls out part numbers. So I think Tesla Service was bullshitting me about no change. It's possible I got an MYP suspension.
I am currently running 39 on my factory 19's. Those are 255/45/19. Which modified size do you recommend for those?OP:
Tire pressure, volume, and sidewall all have significant affect on ride quality. Yes, the 19’s ride better than the 20’s. However, the sidewall is still “upright” (so not bulged). Meaning the tread width and the rim width are about the same. This makes it difficult for the sidewall to flex. To say nothing of curb rash.
In a perfect world you would want a taller and wider tire with a narrow rim running at lowered pressures. As one solution, I bought model 3 18”s and will run taller and wider tires at 37psi. I expect excellent ride improvement when I convert this fall.
Highly resellable, and of course no labor costs losses to speak of.
Ymmv.
Your post is the most informative one I got on this thread so far!I just jnstalled Koni Reds on my pre suspension upgrade (2021). Can't really tell the difference between the 2024 I drove for a couple hours.
Installation was on the easier side compared to the 15 others I've done. Took my time, 1.5 hours each for the front.
Tesla manual says no alignment needed, you don't really touch anything in the steering. Mine seems the same after.
There are a few one time use nuts you're supposed to replace. I used blue loctite, not too worried about it.
The pinch bolt on the upper A arm knuckle is a bit tricky, takes a bit of finagling to get it out.
You can get the part numbers off of Tesla EPC catalog (just search the web and you’ll find it). They charged $0.50 a piece for the smaller ones and $1.00 a piece for the bigger ones.Your post is the most informative one I got on this thread so far!
Would you be kind enough to give more details on the differences you felt after moving to Koni Reds?
Alignment,
That is what I thought, you are just replacing the shocks, not messing with the spring heights or other suspension components.
Those one-time-use nuts, Would anyone know what they are? what part numbers? I am guessing the back is super easy, it's the front that needs more time with the upper A-arms.
See my post below. Best I can describe it.Your post is the most informative one I got on this thread so far!
Would you be kind enough to give more details on the differences you felt after moving to Koni Reds?
Alignment,
That is what I thought, you are just replacing the shocks, not messing with the spring heights or other suspension components.
Those one-time-use nuts, Would anyone know what they are? what part numbers? I am guessing the back is super easy, it's the front that needs more time with the upper A-arms.
Just installed the Koni Reds today, 9/2021 build Y LR. Stock springs. Cut the front bump stops down 10mm, rears not cut (looked pristine, no evidence they ever got hit). We use the Y like a minivan, just a way to haul or stuff, so I'm not making any comments about performance handling, not my jam.
Just casually driving around they don't feel dramatically different, but on the rough bumps it's a huge improvement. I still feel all the bumps, but they don't give me the kidney shots and teeth rattling impacts the stock struts did. Also feels like the wheels are always on the ground, where before it seemed like the car was vibrating around, wheels bouncing and skipping sideways on each bump.
Theres a really bad street I used to avoid. With the old struts, I couldn't go over 10mph and be comfortable. I just drove it at 30 with the Konis, no problem. Wife didn't stop talking to complain about the bumps; I had to remind her how bad the road was. Even at 10 with the stock set up, it still felt like it was bouncing over the bumps, not planted, kidney punching and rocking violently side to side. All solved.
It's not a comfort suspension; if you're looking for Lexus or Mercedes smooth, this is not that. Best way I can describe it is it feels exactly like the original 9/2021 should have felt from the start. I would never have searched for any upgrade if these were shipped from the factory.
I drove a 2024 Y LR for a couple hours as a demo last month while they replaced the windshield. Tried it out on this same bad stretch of road. I think these Konis are really really similar to the new Tesla "Comfort Suspension" at least for reducing the sharp impacts. Its hard to compare, because there's obviously a lot more sound deadening and better seat cushion foam in the 2024, but just from the POV of can I put up with the bad roads at the same speed as a 2024? I'd say 100%.
I was not going to keep this car, the ride was so bad. Now I can imagine keeping it long term.
FYI: we have 37k miles, and 3-6 months of de icing salt on the roads. The corrosion around the lower strut mounting bolts was so bad I almost couldn't get them out. Had to soak them in penetrating oil and work them back and forth with an impact gun, took up to 5 minutes to free them. Even if you don't change your struts, you should check those bolts, (or have them checked) clean them, and add a light film of never seize in there (and add blue loctite only under the nut). The inside of the stock strut hole was seriously rusty, in bad shape. The bolt cleaned up fine, no issues with it.
I could not be happier with these. Totally solved all my issues.
I am currently running 39 on my factory 19's. Those are 255/45/19. Which modified size do you recommend for those?
2) Instead purchase 18" rims that are 7.5" or 8" wide.
I'm going to take a shot in the dark since I have yet to modify my Y's suspension, but I've had a similar sound on other cars in the past. Check for a loose end link, it's going to be really hard to tell while the car is on the ground and the suspension is under load.Hello,
I have installed UPP Luxury Suspension kit with their mild springs on my Y Performance from 2023 and I noticed a clunk noise while turning the wheel full turn which can be heard from outside (front left side) but is louder inside the cabin.
Have anyone encounter the same issue and how did you fix it?
Hi, we double checked all nuts and links. not an issue from those. The noise does not appear all time and is not very loud. The seller told me to let the suspension settle a couple of days but I am not sure how it will went away just like that. I have also taken some picture of the front springs and to spirals which are very close to each other and there are clearly marks of ripped paint because are touching themselves.I'm going to take a shot in the dark since I have yet to modify my Y's suspension, but I've had a similar sound on other cars in the past. Check for a loose end link, it's going to be really hard to tell while the car is on the ground and the suspension is under load.
I think the complaints vary so much because people are used to different levels of comfort based on what cars they drove previously. I have a 2024 MYP with stock 21” tires. I read so many complaints about the comfort level of this configuration that I almost did not buy it. But after driving it for a few weeks I find it to be very comfortable.So I come from a 2019 M3 lowered about 1.5" all around on MPP comfort coilovers with 19" signature wheels, square setup, same tire size as OEM. I find my 2024 MY on 19's way more comfortable than that. Even today, I road in a loaner 2023 M3P in the '20s and felt it was still more suitable than my 2019. I find it odd that there are so many complaints about suspension. Are your roads that much worse than Southern California? LA has some pretty horrific streets & freeways.
Comparing a Lexus LS460 with a first generation Tesla M3LR makes no sense whatsoever. They are totally different classes of vehicle.Before my M3 I drove a Lexus LS460. That car makes both of my Tesla vehicles feel like they forgot to put any suspension in at all.
In my previous post you can see the indications seen on YouTube and also the manual instructions what I had in box with dampers. The manual was clearly wrong because I have pressed the upper mount to see in which position I have the faster rebound/compress.when you adjust dampers you ALWAYS go full stiff and back off the same number of clicks. going to beyond full open can damage some dampers. The damping also starts to diverge the further you get from full closed.
Coils that close will contact and need some sort of rubber bumper or they will make noise.