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The agony of a 10yo Model S 85 with 300 000+ km

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For those who want to know what to expect on their road past 10 years and 330 000 km (205,000 miles) with their Model S, here’s our story, especially the last 12 months before returning the car to Tesla.

[TL;DR]: My advice to old/high-milage Model S owners: sell it before it’s too late, because if/when the battery and the motor are both failing, your car is worth peanuts. I suggest not to push your luck much beyond 250 000 km (150,000 miles), although I read about some people having the same kind of problems with lower millage.

Sorry in advance for the long post. Prices mentioned are in Canadian dollars (~0.75 USD).

Having this car has been a great experience and a privilege, as it was the only electric car able to drive 400+ km in the early days, and it was still a pleasure to drive until the end. We had very nice trips with it, including a few in remote areas at a time when it was not so simple to charge, so we sometimes slept in the car while charging on RV plugs in camp grounds. Or highjack 240V heater circuits with my own plugs to be able to charge overnight! Also, we could fit a 30” oven, a dryer, or a double-size mattress in the trunk, to the astonishment of the people we were helping moving!

Of course, it came with some weaknesses, especially the suspension which needed repairs quite often, for a few thousand dollars each time. But we already knew that when we purchased the car: it’s too heavy for its fancy adjustable air suspension. Last repairs involved changing the rear air suspension on both sides less than a year ago. Then the other main weakness: we had about 10-12 door handle problems, 5 of them were changed on warranty, one @ 1300$ by Tesla, the rest using 3-5$ microswitches from Digikey and 2-3h of my time (because I’m slow). We had two charge port replacements, the second one about a year ago (see below). We also had two wiper mechanism changes over the life of the car, the second one less than a year ago, together with the tailgate lift supports. I had to have the main screen changed for 3000$ in 2019, but got reimbursed following the class action. And the heating system failed at some point. I was able to change the unit for used one at 60$ on Ebay and 3-4h of my time, and asked VE|MTL to change the fuse in the DC-DC unit, which was about 400$. (Opening it involves disconnecting cooling fluid hoses and stuff beyond what I can do at home.) I also changed the headlights once. That’s what comes to my mind. Since 2020, most repairs I couldn’t do myself were done at VE|MTL. If you’re in the Montreal area, I strongly recommend this place, where you can talk to the guys who actually repair your car. What a brilliant concept ;-).

Then, starting about a year ago, we started to have all sorts of problems.
  • At least three times, the adjustable air suspension got stuck either nose down/tail up, or the other way around. Two instances were due to wires touching each other somewhere under the car, but at different places. The other involved changing the rear air suspension shocks, which qualifies as normal wear.
  • The second wiper mechanism change already mention, together with the tailgate lift supports. Let’s put that in the normal wear category.
  • Last summer, I was stupid enough to see that the handle of the home charger was overheating but kept using it, until it melted one into the socket. So I ended up having to change both, for nearly 2k$, also about a year ago. The culprit was the home charger since it would not overheat elsewhere. I purchased the charger in 2015 so I guess it’s normal wear.
  • During a trip last summer, while crossing a semitruck on a small road, we received a rock in the windshield, which cracked beyond repair. They were still backorder (at least at VE|MTL) when we exchanged the car almost a year later.
  • A year ago, the motor started making a slight grinding noise when taking off. Not too much, but it was slowly increasing. It’s due to the windings in the rotor that expand over time and start touching the stator, especially when a lot of current passes through them. Nothing to do but replace it. The guys at VE|MTL told me to just live with it and refrain from accelerating full-throttle. It would not fail abruptly, just degrade slowly up to a point where the motor has to be changed. And it’s sealed/glued in some stuff, so they couldn’t really open it to somehow repair it. (They tried.) Again, normal wear.
  • A bearing needed to be replaced 3 months ago, but that one can be considered normal wear.
  • The charging power at superchargers, which used to be above 100 kW when the SOC was below 50%, clearly decreased suddenly maybe 2-3 years ago, and continued to decrease down to 60 kW at a SOC of 25%, and 40 kW at a SOC of 50%, lately. This started to make trips significantly longer. And let say that this was not “as advertised”. But I understand.
  • For the 10th anniversary of the car (February), we started having a couple of times a series of errors: GTW_w036, ESP_w003, ESP_w002, DI_w124, EPB_w050, GTW_w027, GTW_w104, , GTW_w105, GTW_w025, GTW_037, EPAS_w002, DI_w039. Some of these errors involved having no power steering and power brake of parking brake. But fortunately, they happened close to home or in the driveway. And the errors would go away by themselves or by shutting down the car. That’s until 2 months ago, when it did that in the driveway, without any possibility to shut down the car: the screen would just turn on again immediately, without rebooting. Disconnecting many fuses or even the 12V battery would not solve the problem. At some point, I was momentarily able to put the car in Reverse just before everything failed again. This time, the car remained engaged in Reverse, but still on Park, with no reactions whatsoever from pushing on the stalk. I could feel the car forcing against the Park brakes when pushing slightly on the accelerator. Then I made the error of leaving the car and close the door: since the car thought it was driving (in Reverse), there was no way to access the car again! I finally found that I could semi-open the frunk, then open it with the lever, and then play with the fuses until at some point, I was able to open the tailgate and access the front door from inside to open it. And then leave the window open to be able to access the inside door handle at any time. At this point, the car would remain in Reverse (but with the parking brakes on) despite disconnecting the 12V battery or playing with the stalk during the boot sequence after reconnecting the 12V battery. Obviously, this was a Friday PM, and VE|MTL were closed until Monday, so the car basically remained on Reverse all weekend. No way to charge it because the car thought it was driving, but the SOC was relatively high, and I disconnected the fuse of most subsystems, central screen, headlights, etc. so there was little power consumption. The cherry on the sundae: the car was stuck in front of our garage door where the other car was. What a nightmare!! At that point (and because of what comes next), I was ready to bring the car to the scrap yard, if ever they wanted it. Monday finally came, I had the car towed on a platform (still on Reverse!) to VE|MTL. They realized that it was the TPMS antenna (1st generation Baolong) that had failed and was bringing down several other subsystems with it. They just disconnected it: problem solved! But this and the wire degradation mentioned above and other repairs are signs that this Californian car is not built for areas using salt on roads during winter, and that the car was suffering from corrosion at several places, while not apparent since the body is made of aluminum.
  • Then, the last (and biggest) nail in the coffin: the battery. Last summer (2022), while on a trip in the Maritimes, we ran out of batteries with 7 km of range at some point, 300 m away from a supercharger. I already had that 2-3 years ago at 4 km, but before that, I drove the car a few times down to 1-2 km or range before charging without problems. At the time of the 4-km failure, we were told by Tesla not to go below 10 km of range anymore, so my bad going down to 7 km. Then 2 months ago, I went from Montreal to Chicago and back. During the trip, I arrived at superchargers with 15 km of range a couple of times without issue. But on my way back, at the top of a not-so-steep but long hill in Ontario, the car decided to stop with *30 km* of range left, and 10 km away from the next charger. After being towed to the supercharger, I could reach home without further issues, although not going below 60 km of range anymore! The next day, we did another 400 km trip without trouble. But the next morning, surprise: “Max charge level reduced. OK to drive. Schedule service” (BMS_u029). This is bad, and basically means you have to replace the battery. A refurbished one is 27k$, with was out of the question, given the age of the car and the other problems. Following a discussion with the guys at VE|MTL (whom I appreciate very much, did I mention), we concluded that it was not worth trying opening the battery to find the defective modules, as this would cost several thousand dollars of their time. One thing they could do though is to downgrade the software/firmware to a version from 2020, which is more tolerant to battery degradation. That’s what I opted for. Now this smells like post-programmed obsolescence, just after the 8-year warranty is over. But I guess Tesla would argue they do that to avoid batteries catching fire or whatever. And anyway, the battery had clearly entered its fast degradation regime, see below.
  • One last problem showed up (did I need it): the central screen was becoming very slow, up to a point where it would not turn on anymore. It happened to be a problem with the SD card on the central compute, which contains the navigation maps. Given that we already ordered the new car, VE|MTL just removed it, which means we could still see the map on the screen with the traffic, etc., but navigation would not work. I was fine with it, could use a phone instead, and figure out myself how much range I would need for a trip, especially given that the car would not take into account that it could not go below 15% SOC anymore.
At my last attempt to charge the car to 100% a few days before the exchange, it stopped charging at 348 km of range. And while not stopping on the side of the road (thanks to the older software version), I was experiencing clear power reduction around 55 km of range. This left us with less than 290 km of actual/usable range. This is down from about 360 km 6 months ago, and from 425 km when the car was new. The graph below shows the range as a function of the car millage over its life. The blue points represent the displayed range at 100% charge, orange ones are considering that I could not drive the car below a certain range. The battery had clearly reached its knee point and entered its fast degradation regime in the last 50 000 km (30,000 miles).

Namely because of the battery and motor problems, I could not sell it to anyone. Finding no one interested to part it out for 10-13k$, we accepted the exchange offered by Tesla, and took delivery of brand-new Model 3 SR+. Other 2013 Model S with 200 000 km sell for 25k$, and we’ve put >10k$ in repairs in the last 12 months. Would we have returned the car a year ago, we would have saved about 20k$.

So my advice: sell your old/high-milage Model S before you get into that kind of trouble.

Still, it was a great pleasure to drive it until the end. I’ll miss my Californian car, as I used to call her. After a few days, I’m getting used to the Shanghainese one. Lots of nice features, it drives well, and accelerates well even if it’s “only” a RWD SR+. Regaining some battery range and speed of charge is definitely a relief. But it’s quite stiff, and I miss the comfort of the air suspension of the old one, despite the fact it has been so much trouble.

RangeGeorgette.png
 
Explain to me how a Tesla, which is a rolling piece of technology, is any different?

People upgrade to get the newest Matrix headlights which aren’t even enabled, FFS.
I never said people don’t upgrade their teslas to have the latest/greatest. In fact, I met someone who is on their 12thTesla.

But to upgrade for latest/greatest vs buying something because their last one broke, is different.
 
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so where is FSD? i thought it was supposed to be here in 2016? where is it? It's still level 2. WIth the autopilot, I cant even reply to an email without the car going nuts.

Did you forget Elon fraudsters words "you must be insane to buy anything other than tesla" lol "robot taxi" "car will pay for itself" :)

Did you forget Us government loans?

yeah ok, stop with nonsense about build quality. If you are in toronto, lets meet and walk in to tesla and get a loaner, and walk around new cars at any of their showrooms. it's trash.

go and ask 10 different detailers about how good tesla paint is, its bad. They charge german car prices and they should deliver the quality of the product. We ordered my wife Porsche macan instead of model Y and the quality is well as you can imagine top notch. Instead of being a little cheerleader, speak up so they can fix it, but you won't because you're a fanboy. I spoke with the manager at one of the service centers and he admitted that the quality is not good and suggested to post videos about it. Also told me to keep going to service center and complain. Im sure you know better than tesla folks who actually work on these cars every day.
I didn’t say that FSD was fully here. I didnt say that Tesla is selling well because FSD. I simply showed that most sales are not because of FSD. In fact, a tiny fraction of overall sales.

Tesla often lets the little things slide like misaligned trunk or other somewhat minor things that should be corrected before delivery. Seems to be doing okay in Germany at least for reliability.


When my car was first delivered, I had them fix a misaligned panel and I pointed to a poorly stitched front seat and they replaced the seat. Since then it’s been good. I guess being on a forum for a product I own and like, makes me a fanboy. Tesla is far from perfect but I will push back on what I feel are incorrect statements.

Don’t get mad just because all your points were easily refuted when you first complained that no one responded to your points.

Glad you like your Porsche. I’m sure it is much nicer.
 
LOLZ at FSD take rate being 19%. You really are out of touch.
Is it more or less in the US?

The sources linked to said 19% in the US. Which seems high to me but still a small number in regards to pushing sales.

I can only go by information I find. Do you have sources that say different? If so, please share.

I think it’s overall much less worldwide. In China, it said 1%.
 
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I didn’t say that FSD was fully here. I didnt say that Tesla is selling well because FSD. I simply showed that most sales are not because of FSD. In fact, a tiny fraction of overall sales.

Tesla often lets the little things slide like misaligned trunk or other somewhat minor things that should be corrected before delivery. Seems to be doing okay in Germany at least for reliability.


When my car was first delivered, I had them fix a misaligned panel and I pointed to a poorly stitched front seat and they replaced the seat. Since then it’s been good. I guess being on a forum for a product I own and like, makes me a fanboy. Tesla is far from perfect but I will push back on what I feel are incorrect statements.

Don’t get mad just because all your points were easily refuted when you first complained that no one responded to your points.

Glad you like your Porsche. I’m sure it is much nicer.

do you understand difference between reliability and build quality? rattles everywhere, panel gaps and terribile paint wont make this car unreliable... it's called poor quality control. I drove 4 different loaners (2022 model s, 2021 myp, m3LR, 2022 MyLR) walked all over showroom and found build quality and rattles easy without going with a flashlight and spending more than 5 mins on a car.

I tried hard to find something wrong with Taycan so I can justify Tesla quality to myself but wasn't able to find anything. Im sure the same would go to I4 & Audi.

19% of sales for FSD is the extra money that they can use for R&D and software development. Shady & fraudulent practises.

You sent the article from 2020! really? do you remember what happened in 2020? there was very little to no production of ev cars (and most cars for that matter) and parts on backorder. You are cherry picking stuff like crazy. You are not refuting anything, you simply cherry picking stuff.

Your car had a few adjustments ok fine. I bet you, if i see your car and drive it for 1 week, i will find many other issues that you don't see.

Once again, instead of being a little cheerleader, simply speak up so that the crackhead CEO can actually start doing something about it. If I remember correctly, there was some shareholder that tried to bring this up to Musk but he brushed it off.

Go on youtube (from private browser and without signing in) and search for bad car build quality, you will get tesla 90%-95% of videos and some C class Mercedes.
 
do you understand difference between reliability and build quality? rattles everywhere, panel gaps and terribile paint wont make this car unreliable... it's called poor quality control. I drove 4 different loaners (2022 model s, 2021 myp, m3LR, 2022 MyLR) walked all over showroom and found build quality and rattles easy without going with a flashlight and spending more than 5 mins on a car.

I tried hard to find something wrong with Taycan so I can justify Tesla quality to myself but wasn't able to find anything. Im sure the same would go to I4 & Audi.

19% of sales for FSD is the extra money that they can use for R&D and software development. Shady & fraudulent practises.

You sent the article from 2020! really? do you remember what happened in 2020? there was very little to no production of ev cars (and most cars for that matter) and parts on backorder. You are cherry picking stuff like crazy. You are not refuting anything, you simply cherry picking stuff.

Your car had a few adjustments ok fine. I bet you, if i see your car and drive it for 1 week, i will find many other issues that you don't see.

Once again, instead of being a little cheerleader, simply speak up so that the crackhead CEO can actually start doing something about it. If I remember correctly, there was some shareholder that tried to bring this up to Musk but he brushed it off.

Go on youtube (from private browser and without signing in) and search for bad car build quality, you will get tesla 90%-95% of videos and some C class Mercedes.
Yes, you hit the nail on the head. Teslas are marvelous machines by design. Efficient, good looking (I know, subjective), and they have many unique perks and capabilities. And they have the strangest quality problems...

Their build quality is sub-standard. In 25 years of vehicle purchasing I have never encountered so many issues. That said, I have never been stranded by a tesla (only been driving them for 5 years though), and major issues like that are not common. The issues are minor odd problems and typically quality problems, things that should have been corrected in the factory. The term "within spec" should never be uttered by service technicians... but it is the go-to for Tesla Service Centers.
 
do you understand difference between reliability and build quality? rattles everywhere, panel gaps and terribile paint wont make this car unreliable... it's called poor quality control. I drove 4 different loaners (2022 model s, 2021 myp, m3LR, 2022 MyLR) walked all over showroom and found build quality and rattles easy without going with a flashlight and spending more than 5 mins on a car.

I tried hard to find something wrong with Taycan so I can justify Tesla quality to myself but wasn't able to find anything. Im sure the same would go to I4 & Audi.

19% of sales for FSD is the extra money that they can use for R&D and software development. Shady & fraudulent practises.

You sent the article from 2020! really? do you remember what happened in 2020? there was very little to no production of ev cars (and most cars for that matter) and parts on backorder. You are cherry picking stuff like crazy. You are not refuting anything, you simply cherry picking stuff.

Your car had a few adjustments ok fine. I bet you, if i see your car and drive it for 1 week, i will find many other issues that you don't see.

Once again, instead of being a little cheerleader, simply speak up so that the crackhead CEO can actually start doing something about it. If I remember correctly, there was some shareholder that tried to bring this up to Musk but he brushed it off.

Go on youtube (from private browser and without signing in) and search for bad car build quality, you will get tesla 90%-95% of videos and some C class Mercedes.
If you have a more up to date FSD take rate source, please share. All I’ve seen from you is name calling, insults and belittling.

I simply googled and returned the articles. Not cherry picking. Simply trying the find the most recent source.

I have zero doubt that you could find more issues with my car.


Build quality isn’t the best and has room for improvement. It has improved And I’ve been in the iPace and ETron and their build quality seemed about the same as mine.

Anyway, enjoy your Porsche.
 
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so where is FSD? i thought it was supposed to be here in 2016? where is it? It's still level 2. WIth the autopilot, I cant even reply to an email without the car going nuts.

Did you forget Elon fraudsters words "you must be insane to buy anything other than tesla" lol "robot taxi" "car will pay for itself" :)

Did you forget Us government loans?

yeah ok, stop with nonsense about build quality. If you are in toronto, lets meet and walk in to tesla and get a loaner, and walk around new cars at any of their showrooms. it's trash.

go and ask 10 different detailers about how good tesla paint is, its bad. They charge german car prices and they should deliver the quality of the product. We ordered my wife Porsche macan instead of model Y and the quality is well as you can imagine top notch. Instead of being a little cheerleader, speak up so they can fix it, but you won't because you're a fanboy. I spoke with the manager at one of the service centers and he admitted that the quality is not good and suggested to post videos about it. Also told me to keep going to service center and complain. Im sure you know better than tesla folks who actually work on these cars every day.
Hi, as for the quality of the paint, our 2013 with 299,000 km is still beautiful. What defects or quality problems are you so upset about?
 
Hi, as for the quality of the paint, our 2013 with 299,000 km is still beautiful. What defects or quality problems are you so upset about?
I’m not upset about it but the quality of Tesla’s paint (process) leaves something to be desired; the finished product lacks the luster, depth and richness you’d expect from a vehicle in its class.
 
Agree with everything you said, except I don't know that Tesla ever said or set "a goal to make their vehicles Million Miles Capable". That would be 74 years at the average annual driver mileage. They've spoken of a "million-mile" battery, which in reality they're only referring to cell-level degradation (i.e. range) being reasonable after 4000 charging cycles. In this respect they're already doing well, with real-world customer range degradation of only 12% after 200,000 miles. That does speak well to the charging profiles, thermal management, etc, compared to say real-world Nissan Leaf batteries - basically what everyone thought how EV batteries would fail over the long-term.

What they gloss over is that's only for customer batteries that actually make it to 200,000 miles. I.e. "million-mile" battery (cell) is not referring to quality, durability, longevity relevant to actual battery pack failures before 200,000 miles, such as: moisture-entry corrosion, cell dendritic-growth explosions, catastrophic cell failure within a module, catastrophic module failure within a pack, electrical/electronic failure within a pack like HV contactors, excessive cell imbalance, BMS029 failures, and pretty much every other way a battery pack ACTUALLY fails.

They've also mentioned the Model 3 drive unit gears are designed for a million-miles, and lasted so in a lab test. Again they're saying the gears didn't mechanically wear down, not that the entire DU assembly will last 74 years, or a million miles in the real world. I'm pretty sure every ICE engine, transmission, differential, will mechanically NOT wear its gears out running a million-mile equivalent sitting in a lab either though. But still, for a newish car company, achieving mechanical lab durability comparable to folks doing it for 100 years is not bad...

Basically, battery packs, drive units, suspension components, drive racks, electronics, door handles, many of these things are going to have to be replaced within 20 years or 200,000 miles, some within 10 years depending on the luck of the draw...

That all said, a $15K repair on a $20K car is something I would easily consider, given I've:
-done $8000 repairs in one year on a 10-year old, $11K value BMW
-considered $5000 catalytic-converter replacement on 17-year old, $8K value Porsche (but ultimately traded in to Tesla)
-done $2K refurbished battery on $3K value Prius

Why, it's all about opportunity cost, in my eye, depreciation avoidance from buying a substitute new car. If I'm satisfied to drive an older vehicle vs a new one, I avoid 2-4 years of depreciation far greater than the cost of the repairs above. The only difference with the Tesla is the larger repair cost, as you'll need to be confident the entire car (not just the repair part) will statistically survive closer to 4+ years rather than just a few. The actual value of the car is fairly irrelevant, they're all worth peanuts by 12-15 years, compared to 1st-year depreciation on a new car....
Well, apparently I jinxed myself with my earlier post preferring the risk of driving my older car, as just one week later the car gods decided to punish me - a drunk driver ran a red light and hit us. Damage was mostly to the front of the car, HV battery was probably fine - but the airbags deployed and the claims rep said it's a total loss at that point. One more perfectly good used HV battery for the remanufacturing pipeline....

So perfectly illustrates the opportunity cost dilemma... yes, I would have been willing to pay $15K for an out-of-warranty battery pack, but even with a 4-year used pack warranty, will the car survive 4 years that I expect to amortize that? Car could get totaled the very next day after the replacement pack is put in, if you're unlucky As folks have stated, if your car is a total loss, you get the value of the car only, you don't get your $15K back, or any fraction. I just put on new tires and new 12V battery in the past month, all sunk costs that are gone. Statistically now I've had several middle-aged cars killed prematurely - two by drunk drivers, one by flood, one by college-age niece...

So here's the depreciation avoidance issue illustrated - I think I'll be lucky to get $30-40K back for the valuation of my 2016.5 Model S. I can't buy a new Model S for that, not even a new Model 3. If I kept the Model S as planned, in the next 4 years I'd see another $15-20K in deprecation, add in a replacement $15K battery, I would've been out about $30K keeping my car.

But now I'm forced to buy a new car, if I get a new Model S for $90K, I'll have about $45K in depreciation over the next 4 years. Plus need to buy EAP again for $6K, and new EAP doesn't drive any better than 7 year old depreciated EAP. And I've lost my free unlimited supercharging, which would have at least $2K in realized value over the next 4 years. Sure, you get to drive a newer car that's at least more refined, but experientially not necessarily that much different from my facelift S.

So in conclusion: at least $20K MORE for new Model S over 4 years, even AFTER factoring in $15K for a reman battery pack on the older car. But older car is clear value winner, only IF it can survive the additional 4 years.
 
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I read in one of the post, his car’s battery got better mileage after 100k than the person got when he/she bought it new. Don’t know how true it is.

Many $100k cars probably accumulated $10k in maintenance fees in 200k miles. So not too crazy if it’s the only maintenance fee OP paid, minus tires
 
If you have a more up to date FSD take rate source, please share. All I’ve seen from you is name calling, insults and belittling.

I simply googled and returned the articles. Not cherry picking. Simply trying the find the most recent source.

I have zero doubt that you could find more issues with my car.


Build quality isn’t the best and has room for improvement. It has improved And I’ve been in the iPace and ETron and their build quality seemed about the same as mine.

Anyway, enjoy your Porsche.
Dont know Jaguars. They were never great cars. As for Audi, just stop. Please, dont say nonsense. It's true and I'm standing behind calling you a blind fanboy. Porsche is for my wife, i have my m3p for now. The more you swallow crap from tesla the more they keep doing it unfortunately.
 
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Dont know Jaguars. They were never great cars. As for Audi, just stop. Please, dont say nonsense. It's true and I'm standing behind calling you a blind fanboy. Porsche is for my wife, i have my m3p for now. The more you swallow crap from tesla the more they keep doing it unfortunately.
I think it’s time for me to make use of the ignore button. You seem unable to have a civil conversation without name calling. Good day.
 
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Just finished a 2000 mile round trip out to 057 tech (had a great time out there by the way, great group of guys). Passed 270,000 mi during the trip. Still the original battery, still running great. December 2014 build. We've beat the car to death, as far as charging and battery usage/settings, over the years (although we've been quite gentle with it the last couple of years since we retired).

To chime in on the build quality discussion, sure the car is not the quality of the Mercedes' that I've owned in the past or the audi's. But, I still prefer it overall. I'm often so angry at the company I can hardly breathe, and my sister couldn't believe it when I told her I'm getting an x. "You bought another Tesla after all of that?" Yeah, the overall benefits are there, at least for me. But, for sure, there are times when I feel like I might have to shoot someone! Fortunately I've always been able to control myself that way. :)
 
Take it to any detailer and they will show it to you. It's laughable. Dust particles, missed parts and etc.
I remember the detailer when I went to get Opticoat Pro in 2014 when I got my car. Here's how the conversation went.

D: "Hmm, yeah, see those blemishes."
Me: "Uh, where?"
D: [pointing] "Here."
Me: "Umm, I don't see anything."
D: "Well, stand over here."
Me: "Still don't see anything."
D: "You have to get pretty close to it."
Me: "Hmm, nope."
D: "Hang on, let me get a flashlight." [shines light on it]
Me: "Still not seeing it."
D: "Hang on, you have to get the angle just right. Bring your head down here and look at where the flashlight is pointing."
Me: "Oh. OK, sure, I think I see that."

Paint correction detailers seem to be some kind of mutants with supernatural microscope vision that can see things that just aren't visible to the general population.
 
I remember the detailer when I went to get Opticoat Pro in 2014 when I got my car. Here's how the conversation went.

D: "Hmm, yeah, see those blemishes."
Me: "Uh, where?"
D: [pointing] "Here."
Me: "Umm, I don't see anything."
D: "Well, stand over here."
Me: "Still don't see anything."
D: "You have to get pretty close to it."
Me: "Hmm, nope."
D: "Hang on, let me get a flashlight." [shines light on it]
Me: "Still not seeing it."
D: "Hang on, you have to get the angle just right. Bring your head down here and look at where the flashlight is pointing."
Me: "Oh. OK, sure, I think I see that."

Paint correction detailers seem to be some kind of mutants with supernatural microscope vision that can see things that just aren't visible to the general population.
That's true but that doesn't change the fact paint is very low quality. You can grab a flashlight and see it unfortunately. I looked at several new Teslas just walking around waiting for my car and it's not good. There's no need to hide the problems, we just need to be honest and let the crackhead CEO finally address it, it's not hard.
 
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That's true but that doesn't change the fact paint is very low quality. You can grab a flashlight and see it unfortunately. I looked at several new Teslas just walking around waiting for my car and it's not good. There's no need to hide the problems, we just need to be honest and let the crackhead CEO finally address it, it's not hard.
Sure, but there's a flip side problem of for some reason people pretending that other brands don't have these same kinds of issues sometimes. When the furor about Tesla's "panel gaps" started filling the media, I wondered how that was, so I checked lots of cars in the big parking lots at my workplace from lots of brands. I could find uneven panel gaps on most of those too, since I was looking for them. BMW, GMC, Subaru, Honda, and other brands all had uneven panel gaps if someone wanted to look for them. They're there. It's just that most people don't care, and it just seemed like something people wanted to exaggerate to criticize Tesla for.

I haven't had the opportunity of comparing new paint between a lot of brands, but from the nothingness that the "panel gaps" thing was, it just gives that impression.
 
Sure, but there's a flip side problem of for some reason people pretending that other brands don't have these same kinds of issues sometimes. When the furor about Tesla's "panel gaps" started filling the media, I wondered how that was, so I checked lots of cars in the big parking lots at my workplace from lots of brands. I could find uneven panel gaps on most of those too, since I was looking for them. BMW, GMC, Subaru, Honda, and other brands all had uneven panel gaps if someone wanted to look for them. They're there. It's just that most people don't care, and it just seemed like something people wanted to exaggerate to criticize Tesla for.

I haven't had the opportunity of comparing new paint between a lot of brands, but from the nothingness that the "panel gaps" thing was, it just gives that impression.
Your car cost as much as bmw, audi and Porsche. Gmc is a joke. They dont have that. Nothing is perfect but Germans know how to align trunks and not have rattles/squeaks all over car. Also have normal paint. Also FSD scam is not happening any time soon.

I thought you're insane to buy anything other than tesla. Buying anything else is like buying a horse isn't it? 😁. Come on, we all got scammed for this overpriced crap. It is what it is.
 
Well, apparently I jinxed myself with my earlier post preferring the risk of driving my older car, as just one week later the car gods decided to punish me - a drunk driver ran a red light and hit us. Damage was mostly to the front of the car, HV battery was probably fine - but the airbags deployed and the claims rep said it's a total loss at that point. One more perfectly good used HV battery for the remanufacturing pipeline....

But now I'm forced to buy a new car, if I get a new Model S for $90K, I'll have about $45K in depreciation over the next 4 years. Plus need to buy EAP again for $6K, and new EAP doesn't drive any better than 7 year old depreciated EAP. And I've lost my free unlimited supercharging, which would have at least $2K in realized value over the next 4 years.
I wonder if you can still get this deal to "transfer" your unlimited free supercharging to a new car for 6 years of free supercharging:

Ownership Loyalty Benefits

Current Tesla Model S or Model X owners with active unlimited free Supercharging are eligible for 6 years of unlimited Supercharging. To qualify, owners must either trade in or remove unlimited Supercharging from their existing vehicle. Customers must order and take delivery of a new Model S or Model X between April 20, 2023 and June 30, 2023.
Note: Program is subject to end or change without notice. Subject to the below terms and conditions.