Well, this is something.
I never thought I'd be back here.

I sold my 2016 facelift AP1 Model S about 3 years ago and I remember having quite the list of things I didn't like about it and how badly I wanted to get rid of it. I bought a really nice ICE car but slowly I keep forgetting about that list and I miss more and more my Model S. So here we are.

I was completely away from Tesla for these 3 years so I can honestly say I know nothing about the recent year's Models.

If, theoretically, I were to search for a used Model S again, I'd like to know a few details.

- thinking about something post 2020, when did they upgrade the headlights to projectors and not the disco ball LEDs that were in the older ones?
- do all recent years come with adjustable air suspension?
- a very high level list of known issues, things to watch out for, things/years to stay away from?
- does Tesla still have some sort of pre-owned warranty if buying used from them? I know they kept changing and reducing the length of this in the past.
- is EV-CPO still a thing for searching used models?
- what's a realistic price range on the current market that I should expect. Oh I can't believe I'm asking this, I used to know so well the used values a few years ago
- dare I even ask about FSD? I don't want to poke the bears who were saying it's going to be out in a few years. I was always skeptical and sure it would get nowhere so early, so what's the deal now?
- are all recent Model S batteries the same size? I know back when I was here, we had the 75, 90, 100... are all 100s now?
- yoke! I want it! I've sat in a new S in a showroom and it's awesome. I know it's a love/hate thing but for now I'll stick to "I want one"! What year did they start introducing them?

Anything else worth knowing given the list above?
Thanks!

Hi all. My Google Pixel 6 will not allow me to log in to the Tesla app despite trying virtually every fix I've found on this site and across the internet. Not even the Tesla customer service rep I've been in contact with knows what to tell me. I'm hoping someone here can share a magic solution with me.

The issue is this: When I open the app (works fine), choose Sign In (works fine), enter my email (works fine), then enter my password and hit Enter, the page does a very brief loading animation and then refreshes that password page as if I hadn't just entered it. There is not an error message, alert, or anything else that pops up -- just the same password page from before. I try entering the password again, and the cycle continues.

Here are some facts about my situation:

• My phone is running Android 14
• I am able to log in to my account using my computer, as well as my wife's iPhone

Here are the troubleshooting fixes I've already tried (each one multiple times):

• Reinstalling the app
• Restarting my phone
• Updating the app and downloading my phone's latest updates
• Trying to log in on with both WiFi and 5G
• Giving the app full permissions
• Giving the app unrestricted battery and data access
• Disabling my cellular data and reenabling
• Clearing cache
• Opening the log in page using the desktop version, and using mobile browsers (Firefox and Chrome)
• Changing my password
• Logging into my wife's account using my Pixel (same issue)

As I wait for another callback from the customer service team, I'd love to hear any more solutions folks can think of. Our vehicle is being delivered in a few days and I'd very much like to be able to use my app as intended. Thank you

Hi, my wife run over a bump with our Tesla. Any idea if the scratch will void the battery warranty? Did anyone had this problem? Thank you

So my daughter got rear ended recently at a light. There was minor damage to the bumper and I wanted to check the Sentry footage. But it's not there. Nothing was
recorded of the impact? Should it have not recorded it?

Sentry seems to be working fine and there's tons of events from that day just not the impact. Could it be that the impact wasn't strong enough to
trigger an event to record?

My Y's dashcam is set on "Auto". So I'd expect it to automatically capture and save videos that involves a collision.
Recently, I had a minor accident where a parked car suddenly backed into me while I was momentarily stopped behind it (waiting for the car in front of me to move and turn) and hit me as I was about to move forward.

Since I was going slow (just starting to accelerate), the car only hit my front right bumper (thank goodness!!!), but it was hard enough to push the bumper a bit out of alignment and bend the plate at the bottom. Of course, I was upset after that incident (it's my newer Y, barely 3K miles on it!), and didn't remember about my dashcam and didn't click the button to "save" the video.

A couple of hours later, realizing my car is set to "auto" record, I started scanning for footages, and didn't find anything for that incident at all -- nothing for the day!
Was worried the other party would deny responsibility and I don't have any dashcam footages to show as additional proof (although all the circumstances and the right of way definitely clear me from any fault).

I'm still waiting on Tesla to tell me why the "auto" setting didn't work at all. This was an actual collision, as there was an impact.
Asking them if this could be a bug in the system.
The first response I got was maybe the USB wasn't there. I was like, it is there because I have all my other footages in there. I could see all my manually captured videos and those from Sentry, but nothing for the actual collision which I expected Tesla would automatically store.

Just relieved that the other party's insurance has confirmed responsibility. But if the camera's auto setting is buggy, there's no guarantee that those precious footages will be available when you need them most.

Any similar experience with missing collision footages?

I was in an accident with my Model S a couple months ago. An SUV cut across my lane while trying to pull a u-turn (wonderful Atlanta drivers) and I couldn't stop in time to avoid a collision. No airbags were deployed but still caused about $15k of damage to my car. I've had the car repaired by a Tesla Collision Center.

Unfortunately, the car no longer drives straight. If I let go of the steering wheel, my car will veer to the left within a few car lengths and start to cut across the lane. I have already had the following checked

• Tesla checked whether frame or subframe were bent....no issues
• Tesla aligned the car (toe, camber, caster)...all within spec
• I had the alignment checked by an independent shop...all within spec
• I just put brand new tires on the car

Tesla have given up on the car and don't know what to do. They say the issue is not bad ("it's only pulling slightly"), but I frankly think that is unacceptable. I am in the middle of a diminished value negotiation with the insurance company (other party's insurance since they were at fault), and I am trying to establish what is causing this issue. I reached out to an independent Tesla specialist in Atlanta (TesTechs) but they will not work on a car that has been in a collision.

Has anyone come across such an issue on their car? Or any other advice as to how to diagnose the issue with my car?

Hey everyone, I live in upstate NY and was told I need to clean and lube the brakes of my Model Y yearly because of the harsh winters. I see alot of youtube videos of this being done on a Model 3 but none for a Y. It looks like the rears are standard brakes but was wondering how i would clean and lube the fronts if they're even needed at all.

When I bought the M3LR three years ago I was hoping that the front mud flaps and bit of protective film around the rear door sills would protect them from Winter grit sandblasting in the GTA. Nope.

The other side's not so bad as the door is more flush with the body. Tesla won't touch it, so should I just touch it up every year like I did with my previous car? Not sure if a protective film could be wrapped around that curved edge ...

This thread is for the general discussion of the marketplace listing Gen 2 top mount bracket wanted. Please add to the discussion here.

I know the wheel bolt pattern is 5x120 and Modern Spare uses a tire size T145/85R18, so what other cars with that bolt pattern came with that size spare tire? Just looking for a cheap alternative for a spare. Title is, What OTHER makes and models..... Don't see how to edit title for some reason.

2013 Tesla Model S - Front end damage!!!

my wife is driving my 2013 Tesla model S and hit a deer. My left driver side headlight is damaged. My radiator support bar is cracked and my AC condenser fan is busted. Tesla wants to charge me $18,000 to replace the radiator support bar, the AC condenser fan the headlight and the bumper. The collision center told me that they could repair it for $14,000.

Insurance: no full coverage. only liability no comprehensive coverage.

One of the guys at the collision center told me how simple it was to replace it myself or less than $2000 so I begin to watch YouTube videos on the repair difficulty which appears to be less complex than I initially thought. And cost of the parts is less than $1500.

I searched eBay and found a
radiator support bar: $500
AC condenser fan: $300
Front bumper: $400
Headlight: $200

Any advice to give. many of you guys here in the form sound very experienced and know your stuff. I’m new to this. Any guidance would be helpful.

I have a 2016 model X and on the way home tonight realized my drivers side headlight wasn’t working. I’m trying to find out what kind of lights mine has. I’m not really sure. I’m guessing the vehicle doesn’t have headlight bulbs and I’m assuming they are LED’s but I don’t know the difference with Tesla lights. I’m guessing a module has gone.
Perhaps someone with more technical experience can shed some light on it for me. No pun intended. LOL
I have attached 2 pictures of my lights. As you can see pass side is working but drivers is not. Perhaps someone can help.
Sorry it’s pitch black here right now so kind of hard to tell.

I have a genuine, fast Samsung USB 3 flash drive with a few thousand songs on it. Randomly, after the car sleeps, the USB does not show up on the list of available sources. I have to unplug the drive, plug it back in so that the USB source will show up.

I get the same results from two different USB 3 hubs in the glove box, one made by Sabrent, as well as a USB hub in the glove box. It is a whole replacement of the factory 2 USB-C set up that gives me more power for charging laptops.

I realize that the next troubleshooting step is to replace the center console hub with the factory USB-C and plug in directly, but I wanted to know if anyone else has seen this problem. The alternative is to put the music and dashcam/sentry on the same drive. Again, I would like to know if anyone else has seen this problem--USB source sometimes does not show up when the car starts up.

Thanks.

TLDR: Can I expect a quieter ride switching from Michelin 235/35 ZR20 92Y to Hankook Ion Evo AS?

Hello and thanks for all the help ya'll have already provided. I just traded my 2019 Model 3 Long Range AB for a 2020 Model 3 Performance. The Long Range had ridiculous rattles and squeaks but no road noise whatsoever. The feel of driving that car was magnificent. My Performance has no rattles but the road noise is terrible. I know this has been covered extensively: I have already installed this weatherstripping kit with negligible effectiveness: DOTAATDW Car Weather Stripping for Tesla Model 3 Door Rubber Seal Self Adhesive | eBay

The low frequency 'roar' with acceleration is what bothers me. The pitch of the roar changes with the texture of the road I'm on, and the volume increases with acceleration.
Is the solution just buying quieter tires? I've seen all the videos talking about inserting plastic in door seals, insulating the A/B pillars, putting double bubble wrap in trunk/frunk etc. But I just feel like the noise is coming from the tires. Can anyone vouch for the quietness of the 20" Hankook Ion?

Side point, The Performance driving experience is brilliant. It feels even better than the LRAB. I'm happy to talk about that more extensively if anyone is interested.

I have been looking at putting the 20x9 wheel all the way around on my 2022 X. Went over to a tire store and they told me that they did not have any tires that would meet the weight ratings if we put the narrower wheel on the back. They said that it requires a 110 and the highest they could find was a 108. They also said that they would not install this and that I would have to find another store to do it. I'm curious what everyone else has done. I see that if I go down to a 19-in wheel I can do it but is there a way to keep the twenties and only have to replace the back wheels in order to do what I'm trying to do. I don't want to buy a pair of the smaller wheel only to find out that I really need to buy four new 19-in wheels.

Has there been any updates on this yet. Had a little one in the rear seat last week and he was watching you tube as we travelled. Quite annoying having to listen to this on the car speaker system. Is there anything out there such as headphone that can be connected?

A new supercharger is coming to the Wawa located at 15809 Jefferson Davis Hwy, Woodbridge, VA 22191. A permit was recently found by MarcoRP, and the site appeared in the Tesla coming soon findus site leak this past month.

This thread is for the general discussion of the marketplace listing Orange County, CA PPF/WINDOW FILM. Please add to the discussion here.

Hi,

I have spent hours upon hours looking for the best tires for a 2020 MX LR+ 22 Inch Rim Tires and would really appreciate any guidance. Below are some key facts:
Drive in 20% rural roads, 40% highway, and 40% suburban driving
North Carolina - Rarely see snow
More of a run around car as we have a larger family sized SUV for roadtrips etc
Budget isn't of concern
I have contemplated switching to 20's but really like the look of the 22's and not sure if i could or know where to even sell used 22 inch rims

I currently have Pirelli Scorpion AS but they "seem" very loud. I do not have any comparison to know if that is how all MX's sound or if its a tire issue. I have read the most feedback on Hankook ION Ev being the best but Costco reps have told me the new Turanza EV tires are out of this world (Bridgestone paid to have costco tire reps test them in nashville at an event)... the reason why I didnt already get the Turanza's is that Costco keeps pushing back the date of which they will get the 22" in stock... first march, then may, now "we dont have a date". I am at the point where i need to replace the tires and am feeling like i should try to upgrade over the Pirelli AS but am I chasing a quieter tire that doesn't really exist? Any guidance from anyone w/ experience on a 2020 MX with 22 inch RIMS, would be most appreciated!

Thank you to the forum for answering so many questions over the past ~year!

Regarding Tesla solar energy products: Is the production of power (kW) and energy (kWh) *as shown in the Tesla app* either DC (before inverter losses) or AC (after inverter losses)?

For PV array performance monitoring, I would want DC. For utility bill comparison purposes, I would want AC. My guess is that it is DC, but I could not find any documentation on this. If you know the answer, can you also provide the source?

Marco has located the building permit (status: issued) for the new Supercharger site in Dunnigan, CA. The address is for a Burger King and Taco Bell store immediately off of I-5. Number of stalls unknown at this point.

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I cant tell if this happened right after the "Tesla Electric" option got added to the app. If I select the Energy tab and go to "Day" it'll give me the loading and server errors. If I change it to anything else "Month", "Year" etc. it'll load fine. If I select Tesla Electric and go to "Energy Price" it'll give me to loading and server errors. Impact will load just fine with no issues.

The only fix is to completely deleted the app from IOS and reinstall it, but once I close the app or leave it running for too long it'll revert back to the same exact issues. Sorry the pictures posted large enough to see from Mars...

Anyone notice this change to
Standard connectivity with new cars
Limited to 8 years now

Standard Connectivity is included in your vehicle, at no additional cost, for eight years beginning on the first day your vehicle was delivered as new by Tesla

Hi,

The last few days I have noticed my December 2019 (50k miles and out of basic warranty) M3P fan on a bit more than normal. I have however used superchargers driving in Europe a lot so maybe a coincidence.

On the latest stop I thought I'd look at the temps via service mode and found the attached errors.

I have read through and see the 5 way valve appears to a fairly common issue on 2018 models but assume not on this late a model?

My friend then saw a load water droplets coming out the back of the car ( have a video if handy). It could have been water that had been sitting but likeways something related / more serious. Hopefully not.

Shall I just book it into a service centre and take the hit or are there some simple steps first? I don't mind replacing the valve myself if it is likely to be that but do worry if there is something more sinister with batteries Tesla may try blame my handy work.

Battery performance and range seem to be fine so far.

Any help would be massively appreciated