Car is dead after unplugging at supercharger

[brainhouston]

(1) I have an issue with my (Dec) 2014 P85D, Tesla says water in rear motor, current issue: vehicle air suspension is slammed, is there a way to turn on the air compressor while in service mode, I do t see that setting?

u can rig up ur own pigtail (schematics are free at tesla.com) to activate air suspension solenoids but u need to fill reservoir manually,
compressor won't come on if u got no HV...

(2) Purchased Tesla parts from a place in North Carolina in Oct 2020 (Russ) and invoice does not have the VIN of donor vehicle, trying to certify the vehicle in my jurisdiction but this place is not responding. Is there a log of vehicles purchased from copart/iaai/etc

if u talking about 057tech business then its been bought by other company n that company now out of business...

 

[airborne spoon]

@airborne spoon how's the fix going?

No updates, last thing was what he said last Thurs. But I'm pretty sure they dont work weekends so it's only been a couple days.

"Getting conflicting readings on testing but trying to get some consistency on the suspected fault areas before removal. Don't expect it to be so intermittent"


If I don't hear anything by the end of week I'll shoot him a message.

 

[UnicornDust]

@airborne spoon how's the fix going?

Thank you for asking.

I did look up the schematic for the air suspension, it's like an ancient language. I definitely require a buddy system, to correctly figure it out.

Recently found my old compressor, 3rd party repair shop said I needed one, I asked for the old one, upon inspection today, noticed the part number is scraped which is odd, this car was previously a Tesla Ranger vehicle, maybe this was to pad the invoice.
To life the car, a friend suggested I use a hijack to lift my vehicle from the rim, which is what I did, includes some damage to the rim, lifted one side, got a jack under that corner and axle stand for safety. Then I went under the vehicle found a subframe bolt, near opposite tire and jacked it up.

Put lumber under the tires, both rear tires are jacked up.

I have a Craftsman Air compressor that maxes out to 140psi, the Continental reservoir has a maximum of 150 psi, I could put air in manually, and supply necessary voltage to the 4 pins to raise each corner.

Then I can tow the vehicle to shops use a hoist and make the job go much faster vs working on the floor.

I'd like to fix the Large Drive Unit or check the HV cables for ingress of water.

Searching for a Fluke 1503 Insulation Tester to see what's broken.

Tesla wanted 12k to replace LDU with a Refurb unit plus new HV cables. Can't go that route, not reasonable!

 

[airborne spoon]

Here's the newest update from the mechanic.

Module 10 is showing the fault, but as I took the hv pack out I found water coming out and rust in the front pack plate bolt holes. During removal found mix of loose and over tightened bolts. There are a few suspicious seam areas and the pack was never pressure tested which means the umbrella valves were never checked and tested. I will of course document all findings for you. Water is not what we wanted. Loose connection is one thing but moisture is another. I have everything in a controlled environment now. Need to pressure test the pack and verify entry spots for further investigation once lid removed.

Created a controlled environment and slowly getting everything safely dried out and then can start circuit testing more. I'll keep you posted.

Hopefully once it's all dried out the actual repair is minimal. But time will tell. @wk057 any ideas what could've caused the water to get in there? He said it's all water not coolant that is inside the pack.

I definitely appreciate the mechanic for sending me updates about every week with what's going on with it.

 

[wk057]

@wk057 any ideas what could've caused the water to get in there? He said it's all water not coolant that is inside the pack.

No clue. Sounds strange. I don't have access to the records anymore, but I'm 99% sure my guys wouldn't even have opened that particular pack if I recall correctly. I believe this was a raven 100 as well, and I don't believe any raven pack that was opened was ever opened and resealed, just opened and broken down. And since it was a working 100 pack with no physical damage, they would have done all of the testing externally, including a pressure test, bench electrical load/charge test, inspections, etc. If possible a full road test in a vehicle and supercharging and such.

So it would have been all Tesla original sealant, vents, etc, and everything would have been checked before it was put up for an upgrade customer.

Looking at my original post about it now, pretty I remember this pack specifically. It was another one of the "this is too nice of a battery to break down, so let's try to sell it to someone who wants a deal on an upgrade instead" batteries. And had super low miles and super low supercharger usage.

and the pack was never pressure tested which means the umbrella valves were never checked and tested.

Would love to know how your mechanic determined that. haha. It's not like the pack remains pressurized or anything, and the test port is unique such that the properly torqued plug tends to align with the original factory torque registration mark, too. Very odd assertion to make.

So, beats me. Honestly, whole thing sounds kind of fishy. Have only seen water ingress on a 100 pack when it's been physically damaged and cracked/punctured. Never seen anything like that on a factory sealed unit. Tesla solved the bulk of the issues with the S/X pack design by the first 100s, and even more so with the raven revisions.

Anyway, I've got no clue.

 

[NV Ray]

@wk057 to clarify, by "whole thing sounds fishy" do you mean the current mechanic's assertion of no pressure test? Of water ingress?

 

[airborne spoon]

This is the mechanics thought of how it happened. We're not sure if it was 057 or Tesla obviously but it looks like the sealant had a weak spot that allowed for water to get in.

When they put pack in it scraped the face of the sealant and weakened it.

 

[wk057]

This is the mechanics thought of how it happened. We're not sure if it was 057 or Tesla obviously but it looks like the sealant had a weak spot that allowed for water to get in.

When they put pack in it scraped the face of the sealant and weakened it.

There is no "face of the sealant" ... there's generally no sealant exposed or anything that could even get damaged in such a way during removal/install/etc. So, no idea what that could even refer to.

The sealant is always between two pieces of metal. There's no sealant that just seals a hole or anything, just makes the joining of two pieces water tight. There's usually some sealant that is oozed out of the area between sealed parts during assembly, but removing this overage has no impact on anything and there generally isn't even enough of it accessible from outside the pack to even notice.

Can see in this video from years ago where we teardown several packs at once. Metal around the edges of the pack needs to be bent upward and out of the way to even access sealant on the majority of the pack. This also means it becomes effectively impossible to hide the fact that a pack was opened and resealed when this is done, too, no matter how careful you are. Still can reseal, but can't perfectly straighten out this lip anymore. (Yours wouldn't have been opened by my crew, so, moot anyway.)

Since a pressure test was certainly done, there was no break in the sealant at the time of install for sure. If a weak spot or something developed, it was a manufacturing defect that went undetected, unfortunately.