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How expensive to repair?

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A 2014 Model S has come up for sale near to me, from the MOT history it's clear some work needs to be done. Looking to get a rough idea from someone who knows more than me, is it worth taking it on? The car is priced at roughly £7k.

Thanks in advance!
Sam
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Well... From my experience in the states, and my doing the work with as low costs as I can manage...
Roughly speaking I'd say...
$500 for one set of control arms, quite like close to that again for the other set.
Probably another $300 for a low priced mechanic to change them.
Another $100 for the alignment afterwards.
Minimum $500 for a set of tires, at least another $100 to mount them, close to $200 for the tpms sensors...

If you take it to Tesla or any normally priced garage, don't be surprised if the prices are 2-4x that at least.

The bigger issue is that you need to be prepared for the fun times when the motor goes out for maybe $7k (if it's not leaking coolant yet you might be able to get a bypass kit for... $1k? I haven't looked much at those). Or a good $10k for a used battery...
 
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If its DIY, then it can be done very cheap with used part off eBay
Tires are tires, every car needs them, rears do have higher inner wear due to static camber
Windshield gonna cost u a pretty penny unless u ok ignoring that...
LDU bypass can be done DIY for cheap (assuming its rwd car), awd doesn't need it
if its 85kwh pack then yeah those often fail, so be prepared...
 
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How would you do the bypass? What do you think about the kit that requires you to cut the original manifold off and replace it with a flanged nipple?
I would just use the cap on the inside
I do not like to destroy too much of the original part since we can't source those by itself (unless u buy the whole used unit) so i wouldn't go for flanged nipple
Plus it won't send any coolant up the fly over tube, not sure if its important or not yet but might as well leave it like tesla did

all info about bypass can be found here
 
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@brainhouston Thanks for the reply I understand your concern about the flyover tube. QC charge's manifold also removes the flyover tube which from my understanding is the return coolant from the rotor. I'm going to chance it because I am not in the position to drop the rear subframe and install a modified manifold. I figure it will have a longer life without coolant leaking internally no matter how I get it done.

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