Always Be Charging
THIS is the answer...everyone's else's opinion doesn't matter.
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Always Be Charging
Are you sure Tesla says "as much as possible". Have you checked the Owners manual which can be accessed via the Tesla App for the actual instructions?according to Tesla wants to be and should be charged to 100% as much as possible
Interesting. I don't have Tessie, but I recently got SMT.Went from 57kw to 58.8kw on Scan My Tesla.. It moves depending on what the charge was.
I stayed close to home at 3% doing some laps down to 1% then put the car in defrost mode down to 0%. I was also keeping an eye on Cell Volt Min. Can’t advance science without taking some risks haha!not sure I take it all the way to 0%
That might be so under a zero load situation. However when the battery is under load it might not be able to deliver the residual kWh because when you press on the accelerator the motor demands a certain amount of current and cause the battery voltage of some cells to drop below cutoff. A scenario would be driving on the flat and you have enough kWh to make it but then you need increased power to get off the highway via an uphill off ramp -the car stops even when there is residual kWh3.172V - this is well above the 2.5V minimum cell volt for an LFP battery, so there is still significant charge remaining
Yes indeed - and that is an important point when playing with fire.That might be so under a zero load situation.
Are you sure Tesla says "as much as possible". Have you checked the Owners manual which can be accessed via the Tesla App for the actual instructions?
Just to report back from my experiment:The other factor that the BMS estimates is the Energy Buffer: you can see that mine is 5.75kWh. The energy buffer is the estimated amount of charge remaining when the display reads 0%, but plays no part in the estimated km range at 100%.
The Energy Buffer should read (I think) about 2.7kWh (4.5%) when everything is fully calibrated, so mine is more than double that. It reached 7.3kWh at one point which is why I decided to do some 100% charges to get it down again (I wasn't so concerned with the Nominal Full Pack/Degradation figure). I will be interested to see if some more 100% charges reduce the figure further.
I wouldn't be surprised, because with the nickel chemistry batteries it appeared that the BMS needed the car to sleep some times to get an accurate read on the cell voltages with the high voltage contactor open.I don't know for sure how important this step is (if at all) - it is based on a single anecdote.
Driving immediately after charging and charging immediately after arrival does not allow the BMS to accurately measure the cells voltages.The trouble with this method is that the car does not get to sleep at 100%.