lolachampcar
Well-Known Member
Another Tesla game. They really do not get it. Done!
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Please, elaborate - am happy to take enforcement action if they are not complying. That sounds like non-compliance to me.Technically, yes.
In reality, no.
They will give you the software but no key to unlock it.
I no longer think it is a coincidence that there was a effort to reduce the 90 battery to below 1600 amps once the 100 batteries were able to meet or exceed a 90 @ 1600 amps' level of performance. Tesla cares far more about their next customer than they do about their current customer. Arguably it was only after the issue with their current customers had the chance of affecting new customers that the company took action and then only sufficient action so as to take the wind out of those customer's sails. Their CPO program reinforces this belief for me.
I typically will walk away from anyone where the definition of what is is ends up being debated. The product is too good and there are no other options right now so I will continue to buy Model S. However, I no longer believe what I am told and will hear everything with a constant reminder that smart people are talking and their intent is to deceive to their advantage.
I still think you guys are being too harsh on Tesla, even though they did bring all of this fury on themselves with their own sheer stupidity and their poor communications.
There is now a reasonable path to get maximum performance out of your vehicle should you really want to do it.
1. Full charge
2. Max Battery
3. Launch
= 1600 amps
Every time.
Until something breaks.
In which case Tesla will fix it under warranty.
This seems to me to be no different to the various hoops you go through with ICE cars and launches.
Mash 'n' go will still get you 1500 amps. Shouldn't have too many problems beating other cars off the line at the traffic lights or passing cars on the open highway with that sort of power!
Having said all of the above, I take my hat off to you all for your perseverance in uncovering this sorry mess in the first place and getting it addressed. I'd like to say that Tesla will learn from this, but...there will be another TeslaGate in due course (probably AP2Gate).
You would be correct if this is how they sold me the car. The car they sold me got to LM/1600 amps by selecting LM (always on in my car) and turning on max battery. This method has now been eliminated. Not what I purchased.
Has anyone with a P100D confirmed that you need to engage Launch Mode to get maximum power?
It sounds like you collected the with max battery and Ludicrous plus Data already 515 KW now with update vs 580KW previously.
Just saw a new thread with a P100DL owner asking why his power went from 580 to 515...
to confirm @davidc18 based on your signature your at 7.1 firmware still?P90DL V2 Max Battery, 90 - Pedal Stomp method.View attachment 216966 % SOC
Anyone else having issues w/ Ludicrous+Link? This clearly devalues the P100D
I have noticed since getting the update to remove performance counters/reduction that when I use ludicrous plus, as soon as I go full throttle I go from "max battery" to "cooling". The max kw I get is 515 when I used to get 580. "Cooling" stay on for 10 sec then reverts back to "max battery". It's around 60 degrees outside today and it doesn't matter how long I wait between full throttle attempts I get the cooling immediately.
I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced the same? Seems to be there isn't a difference in performance counters and reduction in Kw if you can use max power! I'm going to reach out to Tesla when I have a chance to get explanation.
You actually don't need full charge. Tech_Guy got the 1600A with 93% charge. I seems the only requirement is max battery ready and launch mode.I still think you guys are being too harsh on Tesla, even though they did bring all of this fury on themselves with their own sheer stupidity and their poor communications.
There is now a reasonable path to get maximum performance out of your vehicle should you really want to do it.
1. Full charge
2. Max Battery
3. Launch
= 1600 amps
Every time.
Until something breaks.
In which case Tesla will fix it under warranty.
This seems to me to be no different to the various hoops you go through with ICE cars and launches.
Mash 'n' go will still get you 1500 amps. Shouldn't have too many problems beating other cars off the line at the traffic lights or passing cars on the open highway with that sort of power!
Having said all of the above, I take my hat off to you all for your perseverance in uncovering this sorry mess in the first place and getting it addressed. I'd like to say that Tesla will learn from this, but...there will be another TeslaGate in due course (probably AP2Gate).
Unless I'm getting it wrong, it seems the only addition to the criteria you listed is that max battery has to be ready (although I don't think the test had been made with just max battery not ready and LM). The battery doesn't have to be fully charged to get 1600A.You would be correct if this is how they sold me the car. The car they sold me got to LM/1600 amps by selecting LM (always on in my car) and turning on max battery. This method has now been eliminated. Not what I purchased. This back and forth with Tesla has really changed how I feel about the car.
I guess Tesla employees are just another typical car salesman.
You actually don't need full charge. Tech_Guy got the 1600A with 93% charge. I seems the only requirement is max battery ready and launch mode.