Vendor Rear Adjustable Camber Bushings for Model S/X Group Buy

[SCharged]

Hm that's odd, it may be because you have the coil suspension. Its a super simple install on the air suspension equipped models, are you sure they aren't saying that the install of the springs may need the rear subframe to be dropped?

He said it was additional to install the camber arms bc the subframe needed to be dropped - maybe he meant springs. Idk. Anyway, thanks for your response. Maybe it is different with cars that don't have factory suspension. The upside is, that they are now local to me about 8 minutes from my job.

 

[pabla]

He said it was additional to install the camber arms bc the subframe needed to be dropped - maybe he meant springs. Idk. Anyway, thanks for your response. Maybe it is different with cars that don't have factory suspension. The upside is, that they are now local to me about 8 minutes from my job.

Yea I would put my trust in Electrified Garage that they know what they are doing. You could possibly look at the part catalogue to get a rough idea how the camber arms are installed

 

[SCharged]

oh100%, I was just a little surprised with the extra charge.

 

[SCharged]

The guys at EG are awesome dudes. They went above and beyond. I highly recommend them . Special shout out to Byron and Chris!

 

[pabla]

Hey guys I got my alignment done a week or two ago and the shop had to align with the car in high mode bc the car is too low to fit their alignment tools on. This is the alignment sheet, I was under the impression that with the adjustable camber arms I could get a better than spec camber in the rear but it looks like I’m within Tesla’s spec which will still cause uneven wear. Or is this the best I can get considering I’m quite a bit lowered?

 

[Doanster1]

Hey guys I got my alignment done a week or two ago and the shop had to align with the car in high mode bc the car is too low to fit their alignment tools on. This is the alignment sheet, I was under the impression that with the adjustable camber arms I could get a better than spec camber in the rear but it looks like I’m within Tesla’s spec which will still cause uneven wear. Or is this the best I can get considering I’m quite a bit lowered? View attachment 682982

You didn’t ask them to set the rear at around -1.0/1.5? If not, that’s why they just stopped when the rack told them they were in the green at -2.5.

 

[pabla]

You didn’t ask them to set the rear at around -1.0/1.5? If not, that’s why they just stopped when the rack told them they were in the green at -2.5.

Crap I told them a -0.9 cause that's what I read on this thread. They said they couldn't get the toe within spec though when they tried for a -0.9

 

[Doanster1]

Crap I told them a -0.9 cause that's what I read on this thread. They said they couldn't get the toe within spec though when they tried for a -0.9

Then they didn’t do what you asked. They should’ve gotten as close to -0.9 as possible while maintaining acceptable toe, not stopped at -2.5.

 

[pabla]

Then they didn’t do what you asked. They should’ve gotten as close to -0.9 as possible while maintaining acceptable toe, not stopped at -2.5.

They didn’t seem like they knew much about aligning a model S, not that it’s anything special. Probably going to go to a different shop and ask for a -1.5 camber

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Then they didn’t do what you asked. They should’ve gotten as close to -0.9 as possible while maintaining acceptable toe, not stopped at -2.5.

Yeah seriously. -2.5 is basically factory spec with factory control arms.

Guys,
So I finally got around to calling Electrified Garage for the installation of Springs, Camber arms, and alignment. I was told this morning it's an additional $362 for the camber arms because the subframe needs to be lowered. I don't recall anyone mentioning this was required. Is this a requirement? My car doesn't have the factory air suspension.

The process is the same for air suspension and coil. The subframe and hubs are the same. I'm not sure why they would need to lower the subframe.

Link - Suspension - Rear - Upper - LH (Remove and Replace)

Are you talking about the *toe links?* Technically, the factory method for removing toe links is to drop the subframe because the inner bolt doesn't have clearance to be fully removed otherwise, but most folks just cut the bolts instead and reinstall the bolt backwards.

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Hey guys I got my alignment done a week or two ago and the shop had to align with the car in high mode bc the car is too low to fit their alignment tools on. This is the alignment sheet, I was under the impression that with the adjustable camber arms I could get a better than spec camber in the rear but it looks like I’m within Tesla’s spec which will still cause uneven wear. Or is this the best I can get considering I’m quite a bit lowered?

Here's the spec that I came up with after much trial and error. IMO, you have too much total toe in the front, and too little total toe in the rear. And then of course too much rear camber. If you have coil suspension, just do 0.05 Degrees Toe OUT in the front and 0.15 degrees Toe IN in the rear.

 

[pabla]

Here's the spec that I came up with after much trial and error. IMO, you have too much total toe in the front, and too little total toe in the rear. And then of course too much rear camber. If you have coil suspension, just do 0.05 Degrees Toe OUT in the front and 0.15 degrees Toe IN in the rear.

View attachment 684026

I am on Air suspension, thanks for your alignment specs. I am going to get the car aligned somewhere else hopefully they are able to get a better alignment

 

[Aggmeister2010]

I am on Air suspension, thanks for your alignment specs. I am going to get the car aligned somewhere else hopefully they are able to get a better alignment

Just take that paper to them and say "give me exactly this." Otherwise, they'll just turn the bolt until the machine shows all green, and not really get everything spot-on.

 

[pabla]

Just take that paper to them and say "give me exactly this." Otherwise, they'll just turn the bolt until the machine shows all green, and not really get everything spot-on.

Calling a few shops and a lot are shying away from aligning the car since its a 2021 and they don't have the specs for a 2021 lol. I told a reputable shop near me that I will bring the specs (the ones you attached) above. Only issue I may have is the gap between the rear tire and fender is pretty small so its hard for the alignment sensors to be attached to the wheel. Going to swing by the shop and test before the appt next week

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Calling a few shops and a lot are shying away from aligning the car since its a 2021 and they don't have the specs for a 2021 lol. I told a reputable shop near me that I will bring the specs (the ones you attached) above. Only issue I may have is the gap between the rear tire and fender is pretty small so its hard for the alignment sensors to be attached to the wheel. Going to swing by the shop and test before the appt next week

That's exactly why I set this up to be measured/aligned in Normal, and driven in Low. My car is lowered, and the sensor arms touched the fenders when they tried to drop it down to low and align it there. That's why the toe values are a little 'lower' than you'd expect....they 'increase' in their respective direction as you lower the car.

 

[krsgio]

That's exactly why I set this up to be measured/aligned in Normal, and driven in Low. My car is lowered, and the sensor arms touched the fenders when they tried to drop it down to low and align it there. That's why the toe values are a little 'lower' than you'd expect....they 'increase' in their respective direction as you lower the car.

do you have ballpark idea what your camber is at your low setting if 1.2 deg is for the normal ride height you don't use? curious how much it changes from normal to low.

 

[Aggmeister2010]

do you have ballpark idea what your camber is at your low setting if 1.2 deg is for the normal ride height you don't use? curious how much it changes from normal to low.

Likely about 1.5-1.6,

 

[Pluturi]

Has anybody seen in the forum any discussion of actual experience using these arms, e.g., tire mileage after installation, etc.? I'll offer mine in hopes of getting others.

I installed the EV Tuning arms and had them do the alignment to -1.0 camber in the rear back in September. 9 months and 8000 miles later I've worn through the insides...lots of tread left on the outside (see photo). It feels like this isn't a lot different than what I would have gotten with the Tesla OEM setup. Am I wrong? Were my expectations for increased tread life too high? I do like to run in Low all the time, but I don't do launches and don't have what I would call a heavy foot.

 

[krsgio]

Unless you didn't address your toe and only focused on the camber adjustment then I'd say that wear is extremely excessive for -1* camber. I do have a heavy foot and lowered without camber arms currently and I have no where near that amount of tire wear with more miles.

 

[pabla]

Has anybody seen in the forum any discussion of actual experience using these arms, e.g., tire mileage after installation, etc.? I'll offer mine in hopes of getting others.

I installed the EV Tuning arms and had them do the alignment to -1.0 camber in the rear back in September. 9 months and 8000 miles later I've worn through the insides...lots of tread left on the outside (see photo). It feels like this isn't a lot different than what I would have gotten with the Tesla OEM setup. Am I wrong? Were my expectations for increased tread life too high? I do like to run in Low all the time, but I don't do launches and don't have what I would call a heavy foot.

Interesting that you have this much wear. Are you running on a rear motor car? I see you installed in Sept 9 of last year so you drove your car through winter with summers on, usually causes extra wear when you drive in cold climates with summers on. Have you rechecked the alignment since, that's quite a bit of camber related wear so it may have fallen out of spec somehow