MasterC17
Active Member
This is a good point, for AutoX smaller diameter works better. For track, doesn't make much of a difference.
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The quest for wider wheels and tires, 295, 305 and beyond...
- Thread starter Davidss2
- Start date
Lindenwood
Active Member
Yeah, a 285 27” tire will be a bit more challenging in the fitment, but the main benefits are both a bit more tread width and a bit more total surface area for track days or even the hotter AutoX days!
Thanks for the insight!
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Lindenwood
Active Member
Ended up ordering the 19x11+40 Hypergrams to use with extended studs and something like 10-12mm spacers.
Thanks!
Thanks!
I really think you're going to need more like a 25mm spacer there.
Lindenwood
Active Member
I suppose I’ll find out! Of note, my Girodiscs add about 5mm, and I’m only going 285s, which buys back 10mm total. That’s where I figure a +28ish should be close!
Moeb
Member
Won’t clear the knuckle with a 10 that’s for sure. The 12 is gonna be a hair if it even clears. Good luck
Lindenwood
Active Member
Can’t lower it to the ground until my extended studs arrive Monday, but a quick test fit with 13mm spacers is tight but has no rubbing. Going to stick with 12mm spacers and shave the upright a hair (and move the zip tie) to ensure fitment.
I concur (and suspected) 10mm wouldn’t work without shaving a good bit off the knuckle.
pdx_m3s
Active Member
Lindenwood
Active Member
Moeb
Member
Looks great, it doesn’t rub on the dimple of the knuckle?
This is my 20x11 et26 with mpp rotors and a 285 eagle f1
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Lindenwood
Active Member
I haven’t driven on them yet, but listening closely under the car while turning the wheel, it did not rub.
Collutio
Member
In this post I'll share findings on what dimensions will clear the front uprights.
As we all know you have to pay to play. I wanted to play so I decided to make good on my previous post that analysed all findings so far in this thread. There are millimetre variations in wheels between manufacturers claiming the same size though. I bought a set of 18"x11" ET+27 from Jova to try my luck. The first image attached shows the details.
The total width of the furthest inner and outer is 305mm. These wheels did not clear the front upright. I bought 3mm spacers for the front and they still didn't quite clear, but a quick cleaning of the casting and removing perhaps half a millimetre of solid aluminium allows them to clear with a very small gap.I'll check for witness marks after the first time I run them and remove a little more if required. This means I cannot run these on the road and will have to change wheels at the track unfortunately.
Because of the variance between manufacturers I thought I'd do a really terrible-looking diagram of the critical dimensions. You'll see from the above that I've done the maths assuming a 3mm spacer (or 3mm less offset) and 0.8mm of material removed. Consider this to be the non-interference dimensions with zero safety margin. The taper shown for my wheels is pretty close to what's on the front upright so both need to clear, and if one clears the other should.
I've kept all mention of what the outboard dimensions are because I haven't fitted tyres, so I haven't tested what will fit with and without mods. I suspect that's also where manufacturing variation from Tesla will influence that fit between individual cars too.
As we all know you have to pay to play. I wanted to play so I decided to make good on my previous post that analysed all findings so far in this thread. There are millimetre variations in wheels between manufacturers claiming the same size though. I bought a set of 18"x11" ET+27 from Jova to try my luck. The first image attached shows the details.
NOTE: I'm running MPP front brake discs. All calculations and assertions are based on this.
The total width of the furthest inner and outer is 305mm. These wheels did not clear the front upright. I bought 3mm spacers for the front and they still didn't quite clear, but a quick cleaning of the casting and removing perhaps half a millimetre of solid aluminium allows them to clear with a very small gap.I'll check for witness marks after the first time I run them and remove a little more if required. This means I cannot run these on the road and will have to change wheels at the track unfortunately.
Because of the variance between manufacturers I thought I'd do a really terrible-looking diagram of the critical dimensions. You'll see from the above that I've done the maths assuming a 3mm spacer (or 3mm less offset) and 0.8mm of material removed. Consider this to be the non-interference dimensions with zero safety margin. The taper shown for my wheels is pretty close to what's on the front upright so both need to clear, and if one clears the other should.
I've kept all mention of what the outboard dimensions are because I haven't fitted tyres, so I haven't tested what will fit with and without mods. I suspect that's also where manufacturing variation from Tesla will influence that fit between individual cars too.
Lindenwood
Active Member
I appreciate all the detail!
Question… can you explain again why can’t you drive these on the street?
Collutio
Member
In Australia modifications are restricted depending on the class of vehicle. For a 'regular' vehicle the handbook (the National Code of Practice for modification - NCOP) says that you can go up to 1.3x the widest tyre fitted from the factory so I'm good for 305s.
It also says you cannot increase the track width by more than 25mm, measured centre-to-centre for each wheel. Each millimetre of offset adds two millimetres track width when considering both sides. With the 18"x11" ET+27 I would be just over 24mm wider than the M3P track width, so barely legal. The 3mm spacers add 6mm total track width, so I'd be ~5mm over legal limit. If I was to buy wheels with more clearance on the inner I'd need to remove the same amount from the outer otherwise the track width would also move out. So really the ideal for me would be something like a 18"x10.75" with whatever offset keeps the track width legal.
Collutio
Member
BTW, they key message I want everyone to take from this is to take a straight edge and a ruler with you when you go wheel shopping! Keep it wide 
pdx_m3s
Active Member
Is this actually monitored and enforced at millimeter level precision?
Lindenwood
Active Member
Konig Hypergram, 19x11+40 with 285/35R19.
Up front:
Dorman 610-490 Studs with +5 Girodisc rotor hats and 12mm hubcentric spacers. (+28 effective offset).
Rear:
Stock studs and rotors. 5mm spacers for aesthetics.
The intent: Provide good sidewall support for 285 RE71Rss to shoot for a more FTDs next season…
(Note: I’ve only done a few miles around town, but no rubbing so far. I might have to raise it a few mm and tap the front of the front fenders, and rear corner of the front bumper, out a bit more.)
Up front:
Dorman 610-490 Studs with +5 Girodisc rotor hats and 12mm hubcentric spacers. (+28 effective offset).
Rear:
Stock studs and rotors. 5mm spacers for aesthetics.
The intent: Provide good sidewall support for 285 RE71Rss to shoot for a more FTDs next season…
(Note: I’ve only done a few miles around town, but no rubbing so far. I might have to raise it a few mm and tap the front of the front fenders, and rear corner of the front bumper, out a bit more.)
Attachments
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BEEFY
That's 285 on a 11" wide? The RE71RS' seem to cover more surface area than I had imagined.
-Danny
Lindenwood
Active Member
These tires are just cheapie Arturo AZ850s (320TW) to tide me over until I get the space to race again next spring, but yes they don’t appear very stretched at all!BEEFY
That's 285 on a 11" wide? The RE71RS' seem to cover more surface area than I had imagined.
-Danny
Lindenwood
Active Member
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