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Aftermarket Hitch Installation for Model 3

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While I like tow hitch bike racks, this is getting a little complex. That and I don't like the issue of being lower in back as I go over bumps and steep driveways. I am going to go for this instead: SeaSucker
Yes, the EcoHitch hanging down could be a problem with steep driveways and bumps, although I never had a mishap with the EcoHitch on my Nissan LEAF. We still have that same bike rack, so I might as well now use it with our Model 3. The SeaSucker does sound like a viable alternative. However, it would be very difficult to "bench press" my heavy, cumbersome semi-recumbent bike up onto a roof rack —IF it could even accommodate it. At least the Model 3 EcoHitch has a removeable receiver so that most of the time it won't be hanging down in the back like was the case with our LEAF.
 
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Is anyone concerned about the corrosion issue with the ecohitch? I don't recall the thread, it there was someone with an S that ended up having some major corrosion in the frame. Has ecohitch done anything to mitigate this by isolating metal contact points?
 
No issues on any of mine - it is interesting that the main aluminum component on the 3 is the rear end...

Tesla Model 3: here’s the alloy mix of the Model 3 body

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Yes I used the passenger rear for the module and for wire access. The hitch instructions showed how to remove the rear panels which are easy. I think three of the pop connectors.
Here's another very novice question: how do the tail light clips unclip? I see they have some small tabs, but… do they pull out or push in to release and separate the two ends? I don't want to break them, of course. It sure seems like the two ends of the clips are plugged very tightly together!
 
Here's another very novice question: how do the tail light clips unclip? I see they have some small tabs, but… do they pull out or push in to release and separate the two ends? I don't want to break them, of course. It sure seems like the two ends of the clips are plugged very tightly together!
I think you push down on the little U shaped clip and wiggle it lose.
 
Here's another very novice question: how do the tail light clips unclip? I see they have some small tabs, but… do they pull out or push in to release and separate the two ends? I don't want to break them, of course. It sure seems like the two ends of the clips are plugged very tightly together!
I think you push down on the little U shaped clip and wiggle it lose.
Thanks! I tried that, but perhaps I'm not pushing down hard enough. I'll roll up my sleeves and try again!

Another question: I've unbolted the two bolts for the tail light, but it seems to still be attached more to the outside. Just "plugs" holding it? I see a black one and a white one over there at that side. Should I just yank to get the tail light off?
 
Thanks! I tried that, but perhaps I'm not pushing down hard enough. I'll roll up my sleeves and try again!

Another question: I've unbolted the two bolts for the tail light, but it seems to still be attached more to the outside. Just "plugs" holding it? I see a black one and a white one over there at that side. Should I just yank to get the tail light off?
I can’t remember exactly. I know I needed to remove the trunk stop adjustment screw in removing things. I am out of town and could dig in Tuesday if you need me to. And yes the tab takes both force and wiggling to get out. I bit of work if I recall.
 
Anyone tow a motorcycle yet? I currently tow with my Volt, up to two motorcycles of about 400lbs each. Usually it's just the one. I haven't order the 3 yet, but I'll still gathering this type of data.
I towed a 2000 lb trailer with little effort. Range dropped from 310 to 180 so plan accordingly. And make sure you use mountain mode in the Volt as it makes towing MUCH better with hills.
 
I wired the harness behind the tail light plugs. 3 wires on one side and 1 on the other. Tesla Model 3 tail lights are 12v. Perfect. I used red quick splice connectors (22g-16g).

Slot 1 - ground (18g wire)
Slot 2 - running lights (22g wire)
Slot 3 - brake/turn indicator (22g wire)
Slot 4 - empty
Slot 5 - reverse (not needed for harness)

Hope that helps.

That really helped. I looked at the colors of the wires and thought perhaps you had swapped the slots, both my connectors (VIN almost 9000) were:

1: Black
2: Purple left; Yellow right
3: Red
5: White

I used these taps, also red for 18-22 gauge wire. The nice thing was that if I had to swap them I could just unplug them.

IMG_3895.JPG


The downside was that on the 18 gauge ground wire they worked correctly, but not on any of the 22 gauge wires for the lights. I ended up having to shave the insulation off the wires to get good contact. Ended up taking the whole afternoon shopping and shaving.

I spent about the same, $12 for the trailer wire that comes with easy pull loop and indicator lights to confirm it's working at the trunk. Another $2 for these connectors, and I left my crimp tool at the cabin so I spent $7 on another one. Now I can tow a trailer to the dump in my first $65000 car, hot diggity.

-Randy
 
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Will Tesla refuse to fix faults under warranty when they see the hitch?
It would be illegal for Tesla (or any mfg) to refuse to fix faults under warranty if you add a hitch. UNLESS it can be proven by Tesla that the hitch caused the problem you are submitting for warranty.

Nothing you do to a car can "void the warranty." It doesn't work like that. The mfg warrants the car to be free of defects. If you add a trailer hitch and two months later the front brakes stop working, the brakes are absolutely covered by the warranty. There is not such thing as "voiding the warranty." If a part of the car fails, and the mfg can prove that something you altered on the car created that failure, then they don't have to pay. But that also isn't voiding the warranty. It is in fact part of the warranty.

I'm not sure how to get beyond this. It is illegal for mfg's to claim that anything you do "voids the warranty." But once upon a time, this was stated, and stickers were made for electronics. And it stuck. The warranty is never "voided." Unless, I guess, you crush the car.
 
That really helped. I looked at the colors of the wires and thought perhaps you had swapped the slots, both my connectors (VIN almost 9000) were:

1: Black
2: Purple left; Yellow right
3: Red
5: White

I used these taps, also red for 18-22 gauge wire. The nice thing was that if I had to swap them I could just unplug them.

View attachment 326592

The downside was that on the 18 gauge ground wire they worked correctly, but not on any of the 22 gauge wires for the lights. I ended up having to shave the insulation off the wires to get good contact. Ended up taking the whole afternoon shopping and shaving.

I spent about the same, $12 for the trailer wire that comes with easy pull loop and indicator lights to confirm it's working at the trunk. Another $2 for these connectors, and I left my crimp tool at the cabin so I spent $7 on another one. Now I can tow a trailer to the dump in my first $65000 car, hot diggity.

-Randy

On the smaller gauge wires, after I closed the splicer, I used a pair of pliers to squish it in deep. Then I closed the snap. No shaving required. I’m glad you got it finished and working. Looks good! Did you get the D-ring mount for your ball?

Now take a pic of your trailer hooked up.
 
The taps I used don't have that V shape, the grove the wire goes into looks like an I, so squishing it around and running it in and out didn't wear the insulation off those 22 gauge wires.

I'll get that photo when I rent a trailer, for today adding the pic of the wire harness I chose.

IMG_3901.JPG


-Randy
 
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I can’t remember exactly. I know I needed to remove the trunk stop adjustment screw in removing things. I am out of town and could dig in Tuesday if you need me to. And yes the tab takes both force and wiggling to get out. I bit of work if I recall.
You inspired me to take the plunge, dhrivnak! Thank you! I installed an EcoHitch for not only our bike rack, but also for a very "minimalist" camping trailer. I'm genuinely excited to go camping —without a tailpipe!

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