I got an email as well as a message in the app that my FSD free trial has ended... but I'm still able to use it.

I *do* have a software update waiting for installation. Must I install it for the free trial to end?

I just received an external RFID for my community complex auto gate entry. The provided told me to mount it on the left headlight externally, but said it might not work as some Tesla owners are having challenges. The reader is between 1' and 3' from the ground.

I notice the other day that I have some paint ‘flaking/pealing’ off next to the plastic part next to the tire. Has anyone had this happen? If so, did you go to Tesla to get it fixed?

2023 MY, Red, 19” tires.

Hello, I’ve ordered my new MY Tesla, just awaiting the delivery date.

However Tesla have said that my MY has a cracked screen incurred during shipping, which they are replacing now.

Question is, should I continue and accept this new Tesla, with windscreen getting fixed OR get a perfect one with no issues instead from the factory?

Thanks guys

I am having trouble registering my car in the state of Arkansas because the registration packet is missing the title. Has anyone faced this problem? Any pointers on how to solve this problem? I have been in multiple calls with sales and service teams and they don’t seem to have a clue about this.

I recently had my car fixed by an autobody shop as there was a scratch on the back left of the car that needed to be fixed. The first drive after getting it fixed I got a warning saying gearbox fluid service recommended. Now a couple days later the car has capped the max speed to 84km/hr due to this warning.

I am waiting for my appointment with a service center but I am wondering if its possible the auto body shop broke something. I doubt its a coincidence this happened the first drive after they fixed it. I don't know anything about cars so am just curious as if its possible the auto body shop damaged the gearbox in the process of fixing the scratch.

Thanks for any input

We have a new garage door with a Liftmaster PL750EV opener. We couldnt get the Homelink in the car to "talk" to the opener because of incompatibility, so we were supplied a Homelink universal receiver, the PR433-4.
We can get the remote to be recognised in the first step connecting to the car but still cant figure out how to get this to connect.
Has anyone else successfully managed to do this, if so could we get some detailed help on the steps?

My 2013 Model S 85, purchase used about 3 years ago at 45,000 miles, now with 102,755, with no issues over the nearly 60,000 miles I have put on it, suddenly will not turn on. The 12V was replaced in summer of 2021 by Tesla mobile (car gave me the appropriate warning that it needed to be replaced soon), and is now the only thing that seems to work correctly - neither the center console nor the instrument cluster turns on when the door opens, but the lights all function, turn signals work, and when I press the brake, i hear a familiar humming that I always assume is the main computer booting up, but no displays come on, and I cannot shift out of park. I had used the car like normal the day before, parked in my driveway and plugged in to charge as usual. I received the normal alert at night telling me charging was complete, but when tried to use the car the next day, it was unresponsive.
Tesla service has been no help - either mobile service does not exist anymore, or because my HV battery is now out of warranty, mobile service is not an option for me. I was told to speak to the service center (by a reputable non-Tesla EV repair shop), as they could remotely review the logs and determine if the battery pack had an issue or not leading up to this, but after multiple attempts to reach someone, I was finally told that they COULD do that, but would not do it until I figured out how to get the vehicle to them.
Are there any DIY options for troubleshooting before I have it hauled there, that might give me an idea of what I am dealing with? if it is the main CPU, for instance, I believe that could be replaced by my non-Tesla EV shop that will procure and install used parts for much less, but they are 50 miles away, so its not worth hauling there if it is something more serious and I have a truly dead vehicle on my hands. If it is the HV battery, and I am looking at full replacement out of warranty, I have to consider other options, and do not want to have paid to haul it 50 miles away, only to have to haul it somewhere else again.

I was charging at work when severe weather hit. I heard thunder, then soon after got notification my 2018 M3LR had unexpectedly stopped charging. I tried the other two L2 chargers available, neither worked. I also tried my Mobile charger, it didn't work. All the letters in TELSA were green on the Mobile charger. I finally tried a charge point, same issue. The screen says "Charging equipment communication error" in every instance.

My best guess is the Charge Port Controller ECU was damaged. I saw one other thread where someone had the same issue but didn't post a resolution, other than Tesla fixed it. Can anyone confirm this is the part I need?

Hi,


I have a Tesla Model S manufactured in 2014. This is the third time in a row that it has reported errors when leaving the automatic car wash. I'm sure I don't press both pedals at the same time. When I brake, PRND turns red on the dashboard and the following messages appear: DI_u013, DI_u012, DI_u004, DI_f019.

It unlocks, more or less quickly, by pressing the accelerator several times.

After two or three days the problem disappeared and the car ran normally.

Will the 2018 Model S parcel cover fit the 2013 Model S?

Since I replaced one of the rear tire I feel like the steerling wheel is little bit off, where should I go get it fix? will tesla service fix it? or any shop will do the alignment.

Thanks

My slc300 benz has maintenance reminders that display when due. Does MS have any? I haven't read anything about that.

if and when we eight point niners get it will it start with the latest 12.3.6 or whatever is the latest.

Anyone else notice a watt/mile decrease with the firmware update (driving habits are the same)? I know it’s not me because I have a ‘22 and ‘24 MYP and they’re both responding this way. I’m still looking to see if the range has increased given the lower watt/mile consumption. Also noticed that for the first time ever I have green sections (usually orange/yellow) under the graph the depicts energy consumption. Green represents as expected usage (I believe).

A 2014 Model S has come up for sale near to me, from the MOT history it's clear some work needs to be done. Looking to get a rough idea from someone who knows more than me, is it worth taking it on? The car is priced at roughly £7k.

Thanks in advance!
Sam

Anyone have any tips, waiting on my delivery for my Model Y and need to provide proof of Insurance for the vehicle to Carvana upon delivery, but I really just want to get insurance through Tesla. Issue is I cannot due to the Tesla App not being set up for the car. Anyone gone through this experience and have any tips for me? Thanks!

I would like to keep the 12V circuit running to power a Dometic refrigerator while camping. From what I can tell, the only way to do this is with camp mode. But that keeps the climate running, which will probably waste a lot of power. Is there any way to turn off climate control and keep the 12V on?

I will be parked in a location with large temperature swings throughout the day, from 35 - 80°F. So any set point on the thermostat would probably run either the heat or the AC.

Help Evaluating Tesla Battery Analysis

I am looking at a used Tesla, model S. 2012, 85, RWD. It has 202,000 miles. Yes I know that is very high

I paid the owner to take it to Tesla for a pre-purchase inspection and they looked at a lot of the basics and then he had them do a battery analysis so I can gauge the current battery degradation. He provided it to me but it doesn’t mean much. Could someone help in understanding it? The car is being offered at a pretty good price so I am just trying to figure out if the battery is good/bad/okay and what I can expect for longevity. Thanks in advance!

——————-


HV Battery Capacity Retention Warranty Check


Vehicle was sold without a HV battery capacity retention warranty.

CAC Fleet Check

The HV battery installed within 5YJSA1DN3CFP02451 has a Calculated Amphour Capacity (CAC) of 190 Ah. This is 4.1 % lower than the average of similar vehicles, which is 198.1 Ah.

This VIN's CAC value is within an acceptable range when compared to its similarly aged fleet. For more information, see Article 5404. Note that CAC data can be inaccurate in certain usage patterns.

The number of drives detected between the selected timestamps was 7.
The average distance per drive was 8.8 miles.

The longest Drive session found between the selected timestamps was 2024-05-05 21:00:48 UTC until 2024-05-05 21:35:36 UTC. The following analysis is based on that event.

Range & Energy used
The vehicle was in Drive for 0.6 hours / 35 minutes.
During this time it travelled 30.0 miles showing a use of 17% displayed SOC, 8.7 kWh and 289 Wh/mi.
Rated range used was 34 miles, it dropped 13% more than distance actually driven.

Driving Statistics
The maximum speed reached during the journey was 96.8 mph.
- The proportion of Drive time spent above 70 mph was 40.8% (14.2 mins).
- The proportion above 80 mph was 18.7% (6.5 mins).
- The proportion above 90 mph was 0.9% (0.3 mins).
The accelerator was pushed aggressively 8 times.

HVAC consumption
HV HVAC used 0.14 kWh which is 1.6% of the total Drive energy, 0.5 miles Rated range or around 4.6 Wh/mi.
Of this, the A/C compressor used 0.14 kWh (1.6%), Cabin Heating used 0.0 kWh (0.0%) and Battery Heating used 0.0 kWh (0.0%).
The average left cabin temperature setpoint was 71.6 degF, the average right temperature setpoint was 71.6 degF.
The coldest ambient temperature was 67.1 degF, the hottest ambient temperature during Drive was 77.0 degF.
The coldest battery temperature was 58.1 degF, the hottest battery temperature was 92.3 degF.
Range Mode was NOT used.

Low Voltage System consumption

The low voltage system (via the DCDC) used 0.25 kWh which is 2.8% of the total Drive energy, 1.0 miles Rated range or around 8.2 Wh/mi.

I am looking at a used Tesla, model S. 2012, 85, RWD. It has 202,000 miles. Yes I know that is very high

I paid the owner to take it to Tesla for a pre-purchase inspection and they looked at a lot of the basics (no major red flags) and then he had them do a battery analysis so I can gauge the current battery degradation. He provided it to me but it doesn’t mean much to me. I guess Im surprised this can’t be distilled down to a cycle count or battery percentage.

Could someone help in understanding it? The car is being offered at a pretty good price so I am just trying to figure out if the battery is good/bad/okay and what I can expect for longevity. Thanks in advance!

——————-


HV Battery Capacity Retention Warranty Check


Vehicle was sold without a HV battery capacity retention warranty.

CAC Fleet Check

The HV battery installed within 5YJSA1DN3CFP02451 has a Calculated Amphour Capacity (CAC) of 190 Ah. This is 4.1 % lower than the average of similar vehicles, which is 198.1 Ah.

This VIN's CAC value is within an acceptable range when compared to its similarly aged fleet. For more information, see Article 5404. Note that CAC data can be inaccurate in certain usage patterns.

The number of drives detected between the selected timestamps was 7.
The average distance per drive was 8.8 miles.

The longest Drive session found between the selected timestamps was 2024-05-05 21:00:48 UTC until 2024-05-05 21:35:36 UTC. The following analysis is based on that event.

Range & Energy used
The vehicle was in Drive for 0.6 hours / 35 minutes.
During this time it travelled 30.0 miles showing a use of 17% displayed SOC, 8.7 kWh and 289 Wh/mi.
Rated range used was 34 miles, it dropped 13% more than distance actually driven.

Driving Statistics
The maximum speed reached during the journey was 96.8 mph.
- The proportion of Drive time spent above 70 mph was 40.8% (14.2 mins).
- The proportion above 80 mph was 18.7% (6.5 mins).
- The proportion above 90 mph was 0.9% (0.3 mins).
The accelerator was pushed aggressively 8 times.

HVAC consumption
HV HVAC used 0.14 kWh which is 1.6% of the total Drive energy, 0.5 miles Rated range or around 4.6 Wh/mi.
Of this, the A/C compressor used 0.14 kWh (1.6%), Cabin Heating used 0.0 kWh (0.0%) and Battery Heating used 0.0 kWh (0.0%).
The average left cabin temperature setpoint was 71.6 degF, the average right temperature setpoint was 71.6 degF.
The coldest ambient temperature was 67.1 degF, the hottest ambient temperature during Drive was 77.0 degF.
The coldest battery temperature was 58.1 degF, the hottest battery temperature was 92.3 degF.
Range Mode was NOT used.

Low Voltage System consumption

The low voltage system (via the DCDC) used 0.25 kWh which is 2.8% of the total Drive energy, 1.0 miles Rated range or around 8.2 Wh/mi.

Was sewing on a custom wheel cover - when one of the sewing needles dropped behind the flip up lid on my Model 3 (I know, l'm an idiot).

Didn't bother me at first but I had the AC cranked today (hot outside: () and I started hearing very loud rattling from the center console that sounds like it's the needle.

I tried removing the passenger side carpeted side of the center console but I couldn't find anything.

Any solution?? Thanks!!

Hey guys, I don’t think it’s possible but I thought I would ask you since Tesla is closed.
Can an order 2016 Model S (old bumper, MCU1) be upgraded to FSD? All my searching seems to point to the next model year, the 2017 being FSD capable, but as usual, I google it and this plenty of reference to FSD and 2016.

The software is way out of date and the dealer hasn’t done an update in months. It’s just been sitting on the lot. It’s so out of date navigation keeps spinning and it won’t update.

Thanks for reading and the help!

Hi Guys,

New here, first post.

Just bought a used Model S 2014 P85 with known suspension issues. Went for Tesla SC for diagnosis and told a few parts starting to wear (shocks/links etc.) but working fine, not urgent, car is safe to drive.

Got persistent messages for 100km of the drive home "Air Suspension Needs Service. Reduce Speed - Drive With Caution" with red air suspension warning icon (no issue on same road that morning). Was like there was no suspension, very poor ride until I stopped to charge. When I got back into the car it drove perfect for another 100km and again the next day. Three days later light came on, and handling was poor again. Stopped and restarted and same road home was great with no warning lights.

Previous owner said car drives hard once a week or fortnight and then corrects itself. I have the car six weeks and agree. The red light has come on now and then but the notification to slow down may have occurred just once before. I also had home location set to high but most times reversing into driveway i get
Raising Suspension based on Location (Green)
Air suspension adjustment unavailable (Orange)

My gut is telling me that if this was due to parts that I'm told are showing signs of wear but are good for now, my problem should be more consistent and not specific to one drive and absent for the next. Has anyone experienced similar intermittent air suspension problems? Are there any sensors or controllers that might sporadically fail to engage when turning the car on? The car has at no stage dropped on top of the tyres when parked. It did once feel like it was hitting pot holes when in v slow city traffic with zero potholes present. I don't know would side effects of an air leak be this intermittent??

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

I have a 2021 model s plaid. It has an active code gtw_w042 tas version mismatched and air ride compressor not working. I tried the software reinstall several times and the code remains active. The pressure and height sensors all appear to be working and reading correctly. I'm out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi all, I'm after some help, I recently sold my model 3 and purchased a cupra born instead and I am now trying to charge the car with my tesla wall box and it isn't working, the car isn't recognised the charger but wallbox light is on so it's all connected etc.

I have the glass front I believe it's a gen 2. I've never connected it to WiFi and now the tesla app is saying it's only able to register a gen 3 so can't access the charger itself. if anyone could help that would be great