Recent content by Aggmeister2010

Keep in mind that I'm talking about a '16 S, which has different suspension components (but generally the same overal concept). The torn bushing I found was the rear lower control arm, outer bushing (on the hub).

I just recently bought pucks, i had been using a 6" piece of 2x4 for about 8 years with good success.

I don't know what jack you're using, but if it's any of the 2+ ton low profile jacks, you'll be fine. You'd have to try really, really hard to get the car to fall off.

You can get a pretty good check by taking the wheel off and pushing on them with a crow bar to see if they move. Anything more than a couple millimeters of movement is probably a torn/worn bushing. That said, I couldn't really tell how bad mine were until I took them off, so it's not a 100%...

Ah, that bulletin is global, not just China. The early Fore and Mid lower control arms had a weak casting that can break randomly. Those parts are available from aftermarket providers for like 1/3 the price of a Tesla unit....You should be able to redo the entire front for less than $1k. For...

You could always get a prorated refund if you start seeing negative reviews.

Y'all nailed it. I'm still singing X-Care's praises - I am truly impressed with how quickly and enthusiastically y'all approved my claim and paid out. This single claim nearly fully covered the cost of my 7 year contract (less than 1 year in), and I know that would have many 'lesser' warranty...

Folks, I want to share a testimonial.....X-Care SAVED MY BEHIND this week on my '16 S P90D. I have X-Care covering my vehicle systems and my battery/DU. Last week, I had both a massive failure of my MCU, and my front struts started rattling and moaning like crazy. Two big ticket expenses all...

The bolts you're removing are basically for a strut tower brace bar. The vaaaaaast majority of cars do not have them, and very few actually need them. It's nice to have for a little bit of extra rigidity when you're turning, but not necessary.

Right, but with FWD cars it's worse because the transmission sits off to the side by design. And you feel it more, because the driven wheels are also steering.

You should replace both at the same time, with the same part. Just use whatever is in stock, other than -A.

I had (have) this issue on my 2016 Model S. Truthfully, I was never able to fully remedy it. I swapped tires side to side, replaced all the suspension components....nothing ever 100% fixed it. I did do an alignment and specified that the 'steer ahead' angle and cross-camber / cross-caster be...

They’re not rollers, they are counterweights. And no, it doesn’t fix it. The best way to eliminate that sound is to thoroughly grease the pins.

Does it make the same sound with the tires off the ground?

This may sound crazy, but given all you've done, my money would be on your brake pads rattling because the slides aren't lubricated. Go down that same stretch of road with your foot lightly on the brake (enough to push the pads into the rotors and eliminate any wiggle room) and see if it stops.