Hi All

Recently ordered the MYRWD and waiting allocation of VIN. Exciting times ahead.

I am looking at charging options and wondering if some of you can help!

Car usage will most likely be limited to <50-75km per day maybe the occassional 100km weekend day.

Got a single phase home, i know few options are either:
1. UMC and plug it to normal power point but will be a slow charge
2. Get a 32a line installed by electrician and use UMC to get max 7kw output
3. Install 32a and get Tesla Wall charger

My question would be if I were to go with the 3rd option, are there benefits of single phase home using Tesla Wall Charger as I can't maximise the charge output of 11kw? Not planning to get a 2nd EV yet so no power sharing.

I feel like going with option 1 to save cost of install but also trying to see benefits of the other options!

For context I have solar as well so intend to use its output as much as possible.

Any ideas or best approach?

Tesla is doing the Powershare install and they say they charge a minimum $3500 so that is the quote they gave me but there was no description of the work or location of equipment. They said if the install is very simple they change the flat $3500.00, if you want to change anything they charge the full amount for the change. There is no unused credit if the install was simple.
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I have a panel/load center on the side of the house and one in the garage.

There is an existing 1" conduit that goes underground from the house to the garage.

When I had the Model S and the Gen 2 - 80A wall charger I was wanting to get 100A into the garage but I never did. If I understand the Conduit Fill Tables correctly a 1" PVC conduit would max out at 100A with three 3 gauge wires. Another chart shows three 2 gauge wires can fit but that would just get you 115A.

Now the wall charges and EVs max out at 48A, so no need for more than a 60A breaker?

Would I be able to get another Tesla Wall Charger and load share the same 60A circuit or is this not allowed with the Tesla Wall Charger that is used with Powershare?

There is another 1" conduit through the garage pad only so I'd have to re-trench the conduit outside.

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Almost looks like they are adding another load center ('C' on the diagram) on the house and replacing the one in the garage with a 125A load center.



The RELAY is the gateway. They had said the Gateway would be installed under the stairs but it's too close to the PG&E gas main and the posts for the stairs would be in the NEC Workspace.


Was thinking it would be something like this. I had to ask them three times to find out where they are planning to mount the equipment.


Now I think it would be something like this. They were going to just run conduit up over the door. The door goes into a utility room and the walls are unfinished so the said it would be a few hundred more to run the conduit inside.


If they can run the wires inside maybe they can go around the side. Seems silly when they could go right next to the existing load center save for the codes/safety.


The new load center 'C', I think is because there is no more room in the existing load center. But I don't know how they are bypassing the current circuits to send only utility power only to the gateway and not energizing existing circuits. They show a relocated breaker in 'C' going out 'To (E) Loads'. I think that is going back into the existing load center that will still have all the breakers for everything in the house?

The existing load center has 14 spaces and 6 are already doubled up. The bottom 4 spaces are for the 20A to the garage and a 30A for a wall heater. If the wall heater could go up top with the dryer in a 30A quad breaker that would leave 4 spaces at the bottom.

They may already be doing this to get the second 125A breaker that goes out to the gateway. I still do not know why the new load center 'C' is needed.

It seems like you could have the new 125A breaker that takes the utility power from the exiting 125A main breaker then goes out to the gateway in spaces 11-12. Then the power would come right back in from the gateway to power the existing breakers in the existing load center. The 60A breaker shown in new load center 'C' could go in spaces 13-14 and then out to the garage.


I asked for the make, model and or dimensions of the gateway and the two new 125A load centers. They did not tell me the size of the gateway but did tell me the part numbers for the two new load centers and they see way overkill for just a few breakers in each.

Load center, Homeline, 1 phase, 24 spaces, 48 circuits, 125A convertible main lugs, PoN, NEMA3R
Load center, Homeline, 1 phase, 12 spaces, 24 circuits, 125A convertible main lugs, PoN, NEMA3R

They are both for outdoor use and seem way too big. I guess the smaller one should be for the garage but it will not fit or they are planning to surface mount it?

Got a flat recently and my Tesla started leaking, what’s this part called? Can I just use jb weld?

Hi Fabulous Tesla family- I want to replace my 2023 Tesla model Y drivers seat with something like my old Subaru Forester's drivers seat. Any recommendations on a place that can do this, preferably in California?

I haven’t seen @Zilla91 since April 17th? Hope he is Ok?

I’ve had this problem for some weeks now and I’ve tried everything to solve this problem, even through the Tesla support and their mobile app service with no help.

The app tells me to connect to WiFi to the car and there is no update.
The car works fine, it’s just the notification that’s just on the app.
The car is a Model 3 2020.

Questions:

1. Will this NEMA 6-30 Adapter for Tesla Model S/X/3/Y Gen 2 sold on evseadapters.com work correctly with the Tesla mobile connector if purchased in the 15 ft length? NEMA 6-30 Adapter for Tesla Model S/X/3/Y Gen 2 – EVSE Adapters

2. If anyone has experience using one of these types of adapters in the longer length, were there any issues such as loss of amps over the length, heat buildup, etc?

Thank you.

Hi,

I'm (28YO) getting my license and have to buy a car in advance so I can continue driving on my own immediately after passing the driving test. Would you recommend the Model 3 for a P-plater? Everyone keeps telling me to buy a dumpster on wheels as my first car... Even if I crash, wouldn't comprehensive insurance cover the repair?

Sorry if this was answered before, I really tried searching.

My 2020-Dec Model S Long Range (recently purchased from Tesla used inventory with 38K miles) makes a rubbing/scrubbing sound during slow tight turns in either direction. Example video attached. My old 2016-Apr Model S P90D with 87K miles does not make this sound. It's only audible inside the car (not outside), and the tires are not worn or rubbing. Tesla Service agreed it didn't sound normal, but could not determine the cause. They first said it sounded like failing bearings (my initial concern), but after-inspection, they said the bearings and CV joints all seemed fine. They replaced my worn suspension links, but the noise still persists. Here is my service-visit documentation:

Concern: Customer states: Other · Noise & Vibration - Audible scrubbing sound during slow speed tight turns as when parking. This is compared to my 2016 P90D Model S. Would like the drive line inspected. It feels like something is wearing out or about to fail.

Repair Notes: Discovered wear on some suspension joints in the vehicle. Replaced rear and front suspension links to help enhance ride quality and road noise. Aligned vehicle and drove car to validate alignment.

Anyone else experience this? Or any guesses about the cause? How concerned should I be? I still have 20 months of full-warranty remaining, so I don't mind taking it in for another service if I can give them something to check. Thanks in advance for your help.

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I'm a happy and impressed FSD user who is curious about how Tesla gathers FSD data, filters and uses it to improve future versions.

My first question is re Teslas not using FSD. Musk has implied that the millions of Teslas currently on the road are somehow providing the company data that will improve FSD. What data might this be, and how is it gathered and utilized?

Second question is regarding cars like mine that are using FSD. I'm guessing that when my car is sitting in the garage at night, within range of my house wifi, video clips of FSD disengagements are uploaded to Tesla (tho I have no actual evidence of that). But if that is correct, what happens next? Is there a manual review of those clips to see which might be useful for training purposes? (Sounds prohibitively labor intensive.) If not then is there a software-based review of the uploaded clips that somehow sorts the useful clips and feeds them to the neural network?

Thanks for any help educating me.

I have the trial. I quickly got 2 updates. But where is the 12.3.5 I think I've seen people talking about?

I have about $5000 in debt 0 interested. i plan on getting a Tesla model 3 with a lease. and my credit is 700+. im planning on gettings a leace for $338 a month and 2999 down with 15,000 miles. Do you think i will get approved for the lease?

Hey all! First time poster, new (used) Tesla 2016.5 Model S owner here. So far the forums been great, hoping to get a little help.

So, I love the car, but the A/C is only working while the car is moving. I live in NC, and with summer around the corner this is not looking good!
My question is, is this normal? I’ve read other posts mentioning the car sending A/C air to the battery while supercharging at times. But this is happening while charging, while parked, at stoplights etc. It does occasionally work right first thing when I get in (regardless of movement) but on a whole the air only runs cold when I’m driving. Fan moves air, everything seems to be fine otherwise…

Any suggestions or information? Is this the way Teslas A/C is supposed to work?

Today Tesla Mobile came and replaced my 2016 Model X's cameras in order to support FSD. After they left I found that there's a visible gap between the edge of the camera assembly and the windshield and it moves if I press on it.

Is a tight seal necessary for anti-fogging reasons? Is this just a cosmetic issue? I don't know if the camera assembly itself moves when I press on it, but if so I'd imagine that would adversely affect assisted driving since the camera alignment would change.

Anyone have this happen to them? What was the outcome? Thanks!

Hello, does anyone know if this is the primer or if someone with a yellow car or object hit my car. My car was parked in my jobs parking lot and the car that was parked on the side of the scratches was facing the same way I was parked and it was a baby blue color suv. My other thought is that it could be a rock or rocks that made that impact while I was leaving a did hear something hit my car and a truck was a couple feet in front of me and it was raining and pretty windy but I’m not completely sure.

Hello! I leased a new 2024 3 and then got relocated to a new city for work right after. My new commute is much farther and I will be going over my 15k a year. Does anyone know if I have any options here like upping my yearly mileage or possibly buying the vehicle out or transferring it to a financing option from a lease option? Thanks in advance!

I am a dealer in NY. I specialize in salvage rebuilding and am an EV proponent. I have just joined this group and have now purchased 2 model s cars. a 2016 85 and a 2023 plaid that was sold by tesla corporate at a salvage auction but with a clean title. I am not sure why exactly. I have a full service and collision center but not registered with Tesla as a repair center but did get registered as a parts distributer. i bought a spindle for the Plaid from Tesla and then was able to move the car ownership to our Tesla app today. now they are saying the care is unsupported and wont sell my service department any parts. I would love any information on used dealer purchase and sale process, salvage recertification for super charging, will FSD work, etc. Any info on these topics will be gratefully accepted as I'm head first down the Tesla rabbit hole. Thanks

Question sounds (and is) dumb but here's the issue. Want to replace my wife's leased Model Y with a purchased M3P. We ordered the M3P on her account, in order to get lease-end benefits of reduced wear / tear costs and skipping last payment. The issue is that I want the car financed and registered in my name. Trying to fill out purchase steps in the app, the registration options don't seem to let me exclude her and I assume the financing step will be similar. No one from Tesla will return our calls, because Tesla. Anyone able to tell me if this is possible? Thanks!

Hey there, I was scrolling on reddit and saw this an ad for this website offering free diagnostics. Has anyone used them before, or is this a scam?

Does anyone know if the fender flare wheel molding of Model Y 2023 could fit Model Y 2024?
Mine was ripped off from sliding against the rubber separators on i95 at 85mph and it also broke the top of the front light.. I was in shock when I stopped and saw the damages. It actually happened right after the self-driving mode got disconnected without even realizing.. nightmare!
If you also know the cost to replace the front lamp, I would also appreciate it. Or if it's possible to change only the top glass without removing or replacing entire light?
Thanks!

Can anyone confirm (or deny) that new Model X Plaid built after April 1, 2024 are coming with the new sport bucket seats?

I've seen it mentioned in one online article, but I'm not sure that article is correct or perhaps it's just speculation.

The online configurator clearly shows different seats when you choose the Model S Plaid, however this isn't the case with the Model X Plaid, at least as of April 25. It could simply be that the website hasn't been updated yet to show the new seats.

Any pictures in the wild of a Model X Plaid with the new sport bucket seats?

Thanks!

Shawn

Looking at an used tesla. 2017. Dealer says FSD is included, but the previous owner said when he had it, it wasn't active. Anything I can check on a test drive to make sure everything checks out? Any other suggestions beside FSD of things to look at that are common issues?

I am going to be picking up a new model Y soon. but I am confused why invoice shows that base price is 34000, where as on the tesla website it shows as 47990, and rear wheel drive is 42990.

I am asking here to see if other tesla owners had similar invoice experience or is it just my tesla dealer manipulating something potentially in preparation to another price cut may be upcoming and so probably they don't need to honor that cut if I sign the agreement with another price and pick-up after price cut happens or something..

Anyone know of an aftermarket product that I can buy that will connect my Tesla Model X or Model S to a PV grid tied inverter and allow me to discharge vehicle battery at night? My battery warranty is over, so I'm not worried about voiding my Tesla battery warranty. I have unlimited lifetime super charging and would like to take advantage of that. My PV inverter can handle from 200 to 1,000 Volts DC and up to 15 amps on a circuit so I think it can handle the battery output. The product would connect to the DC inputs on my inverter via conduit I could run from my garage to the inverter. The product would ideally need to be able to control the power flow and limit total watts drawn per second and per night. I would want to pull say just 30 kW to 50 kW per evening or night. 400 volts DC x 20 amps = 8,000 W / hour discharge rate is what I would like to see to start. It might be even better to be able to spread the discharge out over more time (reduce the watts/hour) so that the discharge is gradual through the evening and night.
Codger222

Hello. Please note that I cannot add any card for Charging Payment. I can add cards to Wallet but cannot select them for charging. My car is registered in Netherlands. I am entering Ukrainian cards. Before all was working but now I can’t add. Please assist.