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I do have FSD paid for. It doesn't give me an option to subscribe, it says 'full self driving capability included' in the upgrades menu, and I have working traffic light and stop sign control.
I'm not able to update to 2023.12.10. Picked up my (used) car from Tesla last week. It has FSD capability, but I don't have an option to enroll in FSD beta or download the update. It seems like they're only pushing it to a few cars at a time.