Recent content by borowanlan

I will be doing a 2018 Model 3 with the 3 pin connector these days and the idea is as follows: - Buy stock EU tail lights with 4 pin plugs - cut and rewire stoplight/turnsignal to front turn signals at body control module - Pull a wire from third stop light to each taillights and wire to...

just a side question to those that have tried. Can you change configurations of navigation region and "eu vehicle" from toolbox 3? in essence, can you usa->eu the car with toolbox 3 subscription?

That sudden loss if isolation sure sounds like the usual drive unit problem.

repaired another one with a new motor for $15. Mine still works. I suggest people buy the motor and fix or pay someone to fix it, the gears inside look as new, it's silly to throw away and buy a complete unit.

Same issue as you guys, but with service/toolbox subscription. The web site declines all my and wify's cards. I have no problem with purchasing accessories trough the app with the same cards. Solution anyone?

One more in the club! But decided to find what's wrong with it! Turns out there's a simple toy motor inside. Motor is moderately easy to take out and disassemble. Brushes inside made a mess and probably short the whole thing when it receives 12v. Cleaned everything with IPA. Gave it a very...

US cars need both the taillights/stoplight AND turn signal to be lit in order for the correct feedback to be sent back to BCM. I did it by modification of the boards inside the taillights. alternatively you can just wire a relay/transistor that grounds the feedback pin with control of the relay...

Just go to Service tab in the MCU (central display) and tap on the "Software Reinstall", wait for it to reinstall the software and your new drive unit should be good to go. PS. That's once you're in service mode!

I've been trying to set online orders for some time now. Can't seem to understand how the whole thing works if you're not a repair shop! I don't have a service center near my location and driving several hundred miles to get a ECU, or some bolts and clips doesn't seem logical to me. I'll be...

Unfortunately I have to buy it from the USA, since my car is US spec, and there is a difference in frequency. US is 315 mhz, EU is 433 mhz. I doubt a 433 remote will work on my car.

No, I was asking if I could buy a second hand fob from ebay and program it to my car. I have a key programming tool so I don't need Tesla SC for this. Looks like I'll be buying the $170 fob from Tesla store.

I think the version of Toolbox 3 we can pay for doesn't allow configuration change. And that's my biggest concern around the CCS retrofit and any other changes to the car in the future. We should be able to change car configuration without having to root in my opinion. They are our property, not...

Read with Easy Jtag possible?

My MCU1 still works fine, car is 2017 year, but I want to back it up just in case. Can anyone direct me to the proper and tested tool/equipment to read the eMMC while still soldered on. This can be done, right? Don't want to risk desoldering it before backing up even tho I have a reflow station...

I actually did it the old fashioned way. Don't get me wrong, I will buy the expensive diagnostic equipment, but it will not be now, and I need the car road legal NOW. About the taillights conversion. I rerouted the taillights at BCM harness. Mine was blinking everything (taillight, stop light...