Recent content by Frieda’s Boss

20 pieces of 8ft 2x4s is no problem with the middle rear seat folded down in a Model Y. We used a blanket to buffer the front from risk of hitting the touchscreen, but there was clearly 4” or more space between the 2x4s and the screen. In addition, 4 adults can still sit in the car LOL. For...

We found a door ding right on the body crease of the passenger side rear door and it’s only about 1/4” in diameter but it cut through the PPF and there’s a noticeable deformation (and of course I can’t not see it now - double negative for effect). Has anyone used a paintless dent repair service...

For Bumper replacement, definitely go with the Tesla part. It was about $1000 for us to replace, but it’s a factory painted part so you don’t have to fight with a 3rd party shop to try and match the paint. FWIW, we also had to replace a headlight assembly which also cost $1000ea. It’s like...

We have the TeslaOffer (not Hansshow) Auto Frunk Opener and accidentally left the Frunk open after unloading groceries in our garage. At some point, the Y went to sleep as expected, but we went into the garage about an hour later and tried to shut the Frunk, nothing would respond: not the App...

Yes, I’m very familiar with aligning the hook with the latch as I installed both the Trunk & Frunk openers in our Model 3 last summer. In the case of the hood misalignment on our Y, the soft close is working correctly and the front of the hood where the hook and latch are are both flush in...

No, unlike the Model 3 Frunk latch, there isn’t much lateral wiggle room and very little up & down movement for the Model Y, so it didn’t necessarily need marking. Also, because the height of the hood relative to the quarter panels was affected, it really seems to point to the struts, or more...

Also, similar to other posters, our hood is now misaligned about 1/8” toward the passenger side and 1/8” lower on the passenger side as well. It seems like when I was tightening the mounting plate that it wasn’t very flush to any of the sides and might be slightly lower than the driver side...

Just a heads-up on the Latch Motor placement (we have the TO Mk4): The wheel well fabric cover on the front driver’s side of our 6/20 MY has slits in it so it looks like water & debris (likely from my power washer o_O) shoot right into the area where they suggest putting the Latch Motor, so I...

The Hansshow website implies there’s a safety risk for activating the Foot Sensor when driving at slow speeds without it o_O:eek: (“latest version Exclusive” !! LOL)

Has anyone been able to get a CANBUS Harness for Pre-2019 Model 3s? It looks like Tesla changed the harness around early 2019, so the plug that ships with the V4 Auto Trunk Kit won’t work for 2018 and older Model 3s. Unfortunately, I’d already snaked the wiring through the floorboard trim...

After troubleshooting via FT with a Hansshow guy, we traced it to exactly the same situation as @bsk997 where the innermost of 3 pins on the latch housing got pushed in when connecting the Hansshow harness. Unfortunately, trying to pull that pin out was a Royal PITA because there’s so little...

Good suggestion, I just tried it but no movement either on the unplug or plug back in :( I also did the hard reboot of the controller, because I have time...no difference. The most frustrating part is being so close to the finish line and stumbling on these last few items!

Unfortunately it doesn’t, so I’m thinking it’s a bad actuator. Checked: - For no kinks in the cable - That the connectors were plugged in snugly to the controller box - That the harness to the actuator was connected snugly Lastly, I climbed into the backseat to watch it all, and the soft-close...

Just FYI, the EG vid shows a great tip to slide the +12V connector through the opening of the rubber enclosure so that it doesn’t compromise the top ‘lid’ of the enclosure. An added benefit is that it keeps the fuse box nice and flat next to it. The trickiest part of it all was I had to wrap...