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Mine are out for delivery today but probably won't install for another 4-5 weeks. Going to wait once we get closer to spring.

Yeah, that's why I asked yr/make/model since there may be differences. Original poster hasn't responded, though.

I've been logging data on preconditioning since November, so I'm going off my own data. Obviously if people have their own, they can post and people can make their own decisions. My various graphs and data has been posted in the Model Y section (Battery & Charging). edit: more info. My 2.0...

This one is difficult to test because the car is primarily RWD, so there's heat being generated from normal driving. Generally I find the front motors, in 35-40F temps, hovering around 80-95F and the rear motors hover around 90-120F. Note, these are on my Y so there may be some variation in...

FYI, it's 3.5 kW per motor while parked. While driving, if you have the Tesla supercharger as the NAV location, the front induction motor will drop from 3.5 kW to 2.0 kW. At 2.0 kW, it's not generating as much heat. While parked, my Model Y can get up to 210F on the front Stator motor but...

Year, make, model? It'll vary depending on 2018-2020, 2021+

There aren't 2 variations of the SR so probably no need to differentiate.

I don't think people realize how much brake regen you get back , especially for those of us that don't have a lot of highway miles in our commute. I get 40% of my brake regen back, well, before winter. That number has dropped down to 36% with the limited brake regen I'm getting. In a month...

I usually have to turn down the heat to 66-67F and seat warmers to 1, otherwise I start sweating. Not an issue.

Keep in mind the people that post "don't waste energy by pre-conditioning " are Tesla owners with PTC heaters.

I wouldn't hate the Tesla auto wiper system if they had controls on a stalk. But yeah, one of my pain points. The voice command system is too slow, too. I can't see "wiper speed 1" but instead "windshield wiper speed 1." It doesn't seem to recognize the former. I find it faster just to do a...

haha yeah, the first 2 months of ownership, I was pretty aggressive with the acceleration. Once I drove normal again, my efficiency went from 290-295 and eventually dropped down to 245 wh/mi, then creeped back up when the colder temps settled in. My overall wh/mi efficiency is 262 since...

Is it typically windy in your area? I've noticed when winds are 10-15 mph with gusts up to 20+, my efficiency tanks and goes from 270 wh/mi on the highway to 350 wh/mi after 30 miles, but then settles down to around 310 wh/mi (overall on the drive) once I'm off the highway and doing 55 mph.

Typically this is done after you exit the vehicle. It'll pull the heat from the cabin to the battery to store it. It does seem to make a small difference if you're running errands, where you're out of the vehicle for 10-20 minutes at a time. In freezing or sub-freezing temps, the battery will...

Mach-E doesn't have a heat pump, so keep that in mind for cold weather trips. I guess I'm lucky my winter "inefficiency" hasn't really impacted me much. My short trips are still 220-250 wh/mi and highway drives are around 270 whi. My overall wh/mi since December 1st has been 260 wh/mi. I...

Waste of time to drive around to warm it up. Just go to the supercharger. It'll warm up faster while plugged in versus driving around pre-conditioning.

I ran some errands so I was able to precondition the car before heading out, so I ran the defrost from the app on the HI setting for 18 minutes to compare against setting a cabin temp at 67F. Long story short, there's not much difference in terms of battery temp increases. Defrost on HI, the...

So I redid the graphs for comparison. Scenario 1: 10 minutes, pre-condition via app, defrost setting to HI Scenario 2: 18 minutes, pre-condition via app, cabin set to 67F Since the duration is longer on the second scenario, I looked at just the battery inlet and battery pack temps at the 10...

It does, but it takes longer before the heat gets routed to the battery, and also requires around 4 kW of energy versus 500 watts by using the normal climate. IMO, it's faster to turn on the heat to around 66-69F and if the ambient temps are around 30-45F, the cabin should be warm in 3-5...

Tip, if you want the battery to warm up faster, don't set the interior cabin temp to a high temp. Set it to something like 67-68F. The car will direct more heat/refrigerant to the heat pump for a longer period to heat the cabin. Once they temp is reached, more heat is directed to warm the...

I didn't know you were vehicle-less :)

Yeah, you're correct. I read here the MYP rotors were thicker but further searching shows them both to be 25mm thick on LR and P model Ys.

They just want current proof of auto coverage. Since you're in a state where the purchase requires coverage on the vehicle itself, once you get the VIN, get the quote and set the coverage start date the day of pickup. The delivery center will ask you for proof of coverage on the Tesla either...

The one unknown variable is Tesla ever offers a tweak to the performance models, then the gap will be further again. If people can swing the extra cash, I always recommend going with the Performance because outside of the acceleration boost, there's really not much in terms of aftermarket...

Plus, the LR wheels on the '21 just look odd... subjective, yeah, easy to replace, yeah, but some aren't going to go through that process. My wife and I debated this and it wasn't worth buying the LR, buy the boost, and buy another set of wheels.

You can also go on YouTube, download the Dragy GPS app and view the leaderboards to see various times. The M3P is consistently 11.5-11.6 and the LR w/ boost is 11.8-11.9 which you can see in the video you posted.

wow, so much bad info from the tech. The Performance rotors are thicker. You can also look under the car and see the sticker showing the 980 and 990 motors.

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I believe so because Tesla has a partnership with Alliant, but I'm not 100% positive it applies to CU. Definitely banks, though.

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Just make sure you won't regret not getting the Performance. I see a lot posting regret not buying the Performance, opting for the LR w/ boost instead.

The 7 kW is only during the pre-conditioning process since each Stator motor needs 3.5 kW. While driving, the heat pump will get the heat from the ambient air and battery. You might also be reading posts from Tesla Model S/X/3 that use the PTC for heating, which require a lot of energy. I...

Heat pump uses 500-600 watts unless the defrost is set on HI. This drive was probably 3 hours, so roughly 1.5-1.8 kW. That works out to around 5 miles of range list due to using the heat.

I was Playstation and PC but my at the time girlfriend now wife was a Halo girl, so she wanted me to switch to Xbox so we could play Destiny together. She bought me an Xbox and that's why I left the PS/PC gaming. His and hers. Note, the laptop cooler was for the PS4 Pro, which runs hot. The...

Team Xbox!

You'll get a text with a range of dates. Typically the range isn't very wide. On my Y, it was a one week window. Some people only get 3 days.

Roughly 8-10mm if you don't plan on lowering it with aftermarket springs.

No, they will be inward very slightly going from a 20x9 +35mm Uberturbine to the Model Y Apollo wheel (note, the aero cover is called Gemini, the wheel itself is Apollo). You will lose about 3.65mm of caliper clearance. This shouldn't be an issue but obviously someone will need to try and make...

I'm at 262 wh/mi but have colder climate to deal with. Before winter arrived, I was around 242 wh/mi but it has since increased.

Something like a 19x8.5 or 20x8.5 +30mm will be relatively the same as a 20x9 +35. You can also run something like an 8.5 with +25 offset without rubbing issues.

Not sure. Sometimes manufacturers do a refresh and this is to close out the remaining stock. FYI take the ratings on TireRack with a grain of salt because reviews are from a wide range of cars, climates and driving styles. I prefer to get my feedback from various car enthusiast forums.

Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06 in 245/35/20

Here's my post with a graph showing the detail. Almost all regen is from the rear motor. Can somebody please explain to me how Tesla AWD works? Thank you.

Ys are leaving the factory with 2020.39.11 have the heated steering wheel but no Boombox, which came in 2020.48.26. At some point, they'll either merge the heated wheel with the Boombox update or, the Ys with the heated steering wheel will have their own software version. It's a bit confusing...

yeah, you're right. Should be kW. I post too much, constantly bouncing back and forth between battery pack sizes and talking about consumption lol. Another possible explanation for the huge spike with the defrost on HI is a small heated filament to be used when temps are too cold for the heat...

To keep things simple, the car will require anywhere from 7.5- 7.8 kWh to 11.8-12.1 kWh to precondition. 7.8 kWh if you use a lower cabin temp, 12.1 if you have the defrost set to high. Each motor draws 3.5 kWh. In trying to figure out why there's an additional ~4 kWh when the defrost is set...

I guess I should put in my order for the rear camber arms now that they're starting to ship. I bought the rear toe arms by accident lol.

Yes, panel goes back fine. I have my OBDII module sticking out since it doesn't fit in there easily, plus it's convenient if you need to unplug it in case it loses connection. Since I have another Tesla on order, it'll be easy to swap between the two vehicles, too.

Yes, you can install it and forget it. It'll power down when the vehicle powers down. I'm Android but the OBD Bluetooth adapter I use works for both Android and iOS.

Yeah, it's unreal what the used Tesla OEM wheel prices are on the 3 and Y. I bought my 20x9 Forgestar CF10 for $850/set (normally $1200-1600/set so I got a good deal). They weigh 24.5 lbs, lighter than all the various Y wheels. I'm always browsing other car forums and looking at wheels for...