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Interior? Motor? Maybe some pictures of each corner?

Pictures? Trying to understand if this is only missing the battery. Clean title?

Yes, there is a U revision for both the Sport and Base units, each in new or reman. Nobody would know that yet. We really don't know what the "delete" version does since nobody has disassembled one...yet. I am curious about their oil cooling option also. I'm not sure if Dexron is going to do...

The part is $159-$445 depending on the generation. I don't know the labor charge but it's not too difficult to do.

Coolant heater.

It is filled with ATF but the inverter is completely isolated from the rotor portion of the drive unit. If you did the same with the LDU, you would need to seal the the stator housing at the connection to the inverter.

It doesn’t mention a low temperature, but on the high side, it says 250°F. And for strength, it’s rated to 4370 psi.

J-B Weld Water Weld it awesome because you can shape it as you apply the product. Waiting for it to set up and then will sand it flat.

A little more progress this morning. Home Depot only sells one aluminum tube stock and it happens to be the exact size I needed. Very tight press fit. Next step will be filling in the gaps with JB Weld.

I pulled the drive unit out of my parts car to get started on a bypass. I found the most simple thing to do was to run a half inch drill through the top hole after removing the rotor cooling pipe using a 20 ton press. Placing it back on the drive unit, it appears I’ll be able to drive a pipe...

Maybe block the passage from the lower inlet hose to the rotor and simply add a T to that hose to run a small line to the top hard tube. A brass heater T and some properly sized heater hose shouldn’t be too difficult to source. I had my Tesla contact search that new manifold part number in...

Here you go. Turns out it is actually real. No details beyond this pic. Pictured is a reman Base LDU part number 1002633-00-U.

Ok. Mine doesn't have any bolt on parts. You should be able to find a car with a bad battery around $8k.

I have a 2014 with a clean title. I bought it with a bad battery for the body parts. It is a complete chassis with one door. What is your project?

No. The end of the serial number will have R1 R2 R3 etc if it was reman.

Sold for $32,000

The sensors are 1014388-00-A (unpainted) or 1014388-01-A (black) and the sensor insulator rings are 1014395-00-A (clear) or 1014395-01-A (black).

1058200-00-A

This is a pre-AP1 car with parking sensors. No camera or radar. On the left side in the picture you can see one nosecone sensor harness. On the right side of the picture the wire is tucked back. There are different nosecones for cars with and without sensors, and AP1 used different sensors...

Can't imagine the tow hitch would be optional on the CT while being standard on the X.

This is a wear related fault of the steering rack. It is internal and not serviceable. Unfortunately no company remanufactures Tesla steering racks, as far as I know, so a new $3k+ part is the only solution. To get the rack out you have to pull the subframe, to pull the subframe you have to...

Open to offers. May be willing to cut more significantly if I can find a new car to buy and transfer the free charging.

Unfortunately, you are a hassle to deal with. The policy has not changed but SC's can tell you they no longer do OTC sales. There is no official policy but knowing how the advisors are rated on customer repair throughput, your parts order with no labor, gains nothing for them. Being in SoCal...

The factory reset command in Toolbox 3 will place any car in Factory Mode upon reboot. It is a flaw in the command according to my contacts at Tesla but as of a month ago when I last did it, the command was still placing the car in Factory Mode.

What was the final sale price?

What is your definition of early? Or are you referring to any out of warranty?

My 2014 S60, 2014 P85, and 2017 90D are all on spring suspension which is more reliable and less expensive to maintain. R1 pack is not a total dealbreaker. The T revision LDU is a huge plus.

What firmware are you on now?

Generally nothing wrong with buying an older high mileage S. I have 4 2014's, a 2015, and a 2017. Mileage ranging from 56k to 137k. The main thing to keep in mind is your personal financial situation. One shouldn't stretch to buy any used car out of warranty, let alone an 8+ year old car. A...

Now $32,000

Yes. The SA probably picked the wrong correction code.

A 2016 shouldn't be R1234YF unless someone converted it. My 2017 is R134a.

Forgot to mention that this has ceramic window tint, and Light Harmonic door speakers. Also based on feedback I've received regarding battery degradation, I wanted to add information to show range at new delivery. This Monroney screenshot confirms 242 miles range which shows my current 235 as...

If fault falls on the other driver, you may be able to get the car totaled. The other carrier owes for a comparable rental from the date of loss. Adding that expense to the estimated repair should push it over the limit. One caveat would be lack of coverage on the other drivers policy. If...

A set of four on Amazon goes for $119. I have used them in several sets of wheels with the Continental system. Search for: "Set of 4 08017DXS ITM TPMS 433mhz Tire Pressure Sensors w/Gloss Black or Matte Black Aluminum Valve Stems for Tesla Model S 3 X Aftermarket Replacement (Gloss Black)"

Correct. Not surprising since this was ordered new for Florida.

I have purchased from autoparts_premium on eBay several times with great success. Full kits, individual arms, sway-bar links, half shafts, and hubs. All have been great. It is so nice to have a fully refreshed suspension. On my performance models I have gone OEM but I'm not sure there was...

Correct.

Now $33,500

More pics

Does it have Ludicrous?

How much are they asking? Just listed mine and curious if I am in the ballpark.

"All the upgrades" but you didn't mention Ludicrous. That's a game changer. Also, the battery replacement is meaningless if it is a reman which is likely if it is a true 85 battery. If it is the new 350v 90 then performance will be slightly cut back due to the lover voltage.

More pics

This is my 2014 Tesla Model S P85DL+ in Monterey blue metallic. It has the $5k Ludicrous upgrade (for 0-60 around 2.6 seconds), the performance plus suspension, twin chargers, and Recaro leather seats front and back. It is an SC01 car with transferrable free supercharging for the life of the...

That is an internal issue with one or both of the rear air struts. My 2014 P85D has it on the driver side. Sounds like stacking plastic cups. What model do you have and what is the build date?

Appears the new LDU is no longer listed as "Tesla only" on EPC. Remans are still restricted.

This is what we used when I worked at Tesla. They are JackPoint brand.

Swap over the battery first. Shouldn't be too difficult to get it running as an S85. The switch to P85 requires a gateway change of the "Performance" value from "1" to "2" after installing the "sport" LDU. You'll need experienced help to make that happen. What MCU is in the 60 and what...