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And it’s due to no anti-pinch feature IIRC. Orig we could vent the windows as well as the roof, but couldn’t close them via the app so they did away with it all together because of the rain potential.

@NV Ray you knew this was going to turn into a religious debate, right? 😀 Orig concern about extreme heat impacting charging has been answered/quelled. The rest is just personal preference. If your top goal is to reach destinations as fast as possible, EVs would never be in the conversation...

This is what I was going to chime in with. Unless many of your SC stops are very old/poorly maintained V2 stations, you shouldn’t have much to worry about in terms of charging in extreme heat. I had major issues one year when ambient temps were 115 (car reported 127!) in Oregon and I was at a...

Suspension rattles always hard to pinpoint unless clearly obvious like torn bushings, etc. In my case a few years ago, it was the wheel bearing that was worn. Only time I’d hear a rattle was when driving over cobblestone type patches in the road at lower speeds. SC replaced both front sides...

It’s an easy self-check. Remove the frunk and see if the extended hose is there/clipped in.

There is only one. We do not have Bio Weapon Defense/HEPA filter (you said pre-facelift/nosecone right?) Remove the windshield cowl and the filter cover is exposed. Here’s the exact filter I use without any issues whatsoever. JOJOMARK for Tesla Model S Cabin Air Filter with Activated Carbon Fit...

This. You’re not going to fry the compressor by unplugging it. Pulling the relay is easier than disconnecting the 12V, but your choice if you want to be extra careful.

No big deal either way. Just disconnect the power connector. If you’re really worried, remove the relay that’s easily accessible from the fuse box.

You replaced both yourself? Nice. Glad you’re back up. Yes, try hard reset and/or fog for a drive. Otherwise you can have a Ranger come out and perform a simple calibration that only takes a few mins to perform.

Go for a drive if possible…

Did you disconnect 12v and reconnect to power cycle? Did you check or replace the relay?

Refer to posts #9 and 11 again. You’ve already lost one bolt, but don’t worry, it didn’t fall into the abyss, just the tray below so use a magnetized retrieval tool to get it. Now just loosen the other power wires just enough so that you can bend them upward. The sliding trap door as I call it...

You said that Tesla just asked you to drop the car off and leave it? If you requested a service appt stating that you have an SAS error, isn’t the next step to drop the car off? Did they say they don’t want to fix it/replace the compressor and valve block. As for Ranger service, I personally...

Sorry you’re having issues. What’s happening with the suspension and what did Tesla propose?

And any shop that actually tried to rotate a staggered setup I’d quickly run away from and never come back.

Awesome to hear!!! Feels good doesn’t it to fix it yourself?!?

Oops, I take that back. The elbow connection that connects to the air intake tube just pulls straight out. You don’t disconnect the tube via the clamp. The elbow fitting is compression fit. So takes some force to remove, but again, pull straight out as much as possible and avoid side to side so...

Just carefully turn and pull at the same time (After moving the pinch collar naturally). Def don’t put too much side-to-side wiggle pressure to reduce chances of snapping the plastic nozzle. As for the air lines themselves, you remove the old Voss connector and collar from each line. The...

It’s just a bad angle for the pic. That’s just the power/gnd connector. Here’s a front angle shot of my compressor.

Yep, if you don’t Jack the car up and remove the undertray, it’s a PITA to remove those three bolts. You need to use an open ended wrench and feel your way under to counter hold while you losses the top bolt. Def need a magnetic retrieval tool to make life easier. The three bolts are long and...

Rotors “looking good” from a wear perspective doesn’t mean they’re not warped. Did you properly bed-in the new pads?

Cool. Keep us posted. As for the louvres, I’ve never had that issue nor replaced them so it all depends on what the problem really is. The motors themselves or the sensors or a physical obstruction preventing them from opening.

You apparently didn’t go to Confession or fell asleep during the sermon so the red icon was your punishment. 😀 Only thing I recognize from your alert list is the cooling louvres. I recall others having those errors before without much consequence. Easy check to see if they work still is to...

Yay! The SAS system was overall is just finicky. Too much so for my taste. However, you already know you have a real issue with air loss so this “all good” status may be temporary. Good that you’re willing to dig in and figure things out.

That’s just the air intake filter.

First try driving around a bit after you seal the crack or replace the compressor if the icon is still on. That has also worked for me. If you do take it to the SC, you can just pay for a suspension calibration which is cheap and includes clearing of all stored SAS codes. They did that for me...

Would def not go with the Jeep equivalent. I went down that path and two failed units within a couple months later I hit the bullet and went OEM. So for me, I’d buy used OEM before I went rebuilt Jeep. You already checked the 40A main power box fuse? Software reset won’t do it sometimes...

JB Weld, Epoxy, etc. Honestly was joking. Trying to seal it is prob a temporary fix because the pressure has to go somewhere and once a crack or weak point exists, it’ll create new ones. Can def try/experiment. The red icon usually goes away on its own once the SAS computer sees no...

No, def not normal. Usually the leaks are at the VOSS fitting or in the air lines themselves. With that many bubbles to the right of the purple fitting, it must be a crack in the plastic of the compressor itself which means replacement. Now that you know where the leak is, you could do the...

Same steps to go through. The reserve tank should have much more than 75psi, but at least it’s not empty. Check for leaks at the compressor as well as valve block by using soapy water. I don’t even see the valve block in your pic. Do you have an older ‘13? One corner being low points to a leak...

This. While I’m certainly not a CR fanboy, if this was intentional, do you really think they’d ever publish a new headline of “Tesla owners report max usable range to be only 100 miles!”? They’d be endlessly mocked and probably sued.

Then last thing is the compressor itself. Unfortunately the std the most expensive piece. 😂

Hopefully we’ve pulled you out of the Tesla depression @TLLMRRJ 😀

Customer Service (or lack thereof in many instances), cars that are heavily dependent on software, and the extreme comparative repair costs for EV subsystems vs ICE have many threads starting with a problem. That’s the nature of any automotive forum. We also own a Leaf and while the volume of...

Another vote for Blackvue. I’ve used the 750S for years with zero issues. Simple install since you can tap the power at the windshield rear view mirror cover as previously mentioned. 1080p was clear as day to get a license plate of an offending hit and run person a few years ago. Hit someone...

Yah, not sure why all the secrecy. People want to call Tesla out for many things, which often times they deserve, but there is always a paper trail, even if the diagnosis is “Can’t reproduce” or all the fixes were done under “Goodwill”. @jslewis58 its not like you did anything wrong here to...

Again, you haven’t provided more information. You said you have tires off Amazon? Is -10psi the end of the world or you’re imminently going to explode? No, but it’s certainly adding more risk. If you’re good with that, then end of story.

So how about letting us know what was fixed, replaced, etc.?

That would be… no. Nothing to stress about here in general. Now if you’re going off-road in the countryside often, that may impact things, but in general, nothing specific to worry about.

Perform the hard braking experiment again on a safe stretch of road. If you get the same results that put you in uncomfortable territory still, just upgrade the pads to a grippier compound. If it’s pedal feel or pedal going further then you think is normal, then perhaps a brake fluid flush is...

You’re missing the point. No arguments with anything you said about wanting the best deal and yes, plenty of info/advice has been given to you. As previously stated, you’ve already missed out on what you deemed your perfect spec car. My point has always been that your list of must-haves is...

Sorry, but you don’t sound like you’re serious about purchasing as you keep adding new tidbits to the picture. You’re now wanting a seller to partially fund your desire for a different color of car?!?! You enjoy the hunt and will be in perpetual “looking” mode. Next round of questions will be...

Honestly, OP? We’ve already suggested you set on a price you’re willing to pay for your red unicorn with FUSC and click “buy” the minute the boxes are checked. If you don’t, you honestly will never find a car because you’ll talk yourself out of it one way or another. You’ll keep asking about...

That’s the known/dreaded milling noise. DU should’ve been replaced while you were still under the 8yr warranty. Mine (rear P85D) was replaced at ~60k miles IIRC.

It is not normal. The coolant pump heater running more than it should impacted older cars like our P85Ds @dwbv when charging to above ~75% it’ll run for a while after charging is finished. Doesn’t run all day. Many threads on this if you want the gory details. For a new ‘23 MS, this is certainly...

Replacement is easy/quick… it’s how long it takes them to actually get to working on the car that’s long. Hopefully if they know that you’re waiting for it and that you drove 2.5hrs, they’ll get to it sooner rather than later.

1Z Gummi Pfledge has always worked for me as well.

Weird. Not something that’s easily done without a lift. Definitely doable, but would take a lot longer. Also, factory steps require the reservoir to be filled with nitrogen so unless the Ranger packs a canister with them… I’ve replaced it myself, but also have had the SC do it and they said it...

Same for me in terms of having it, but never using it. Too noisy, even in vent mode. Front edge always causes squeaks every few months when closed so I keep a bottle of GummiPfledge on hand.

Most likely the battery coolant heater vs PTC. I had mine fail around 50k miles IIRC. Have the SC do remote diag to confirm. Only a few hundred for them to replace. Easy DIY with hose clamps if you’re up for it. Mine was replaced under warranty.