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I believe they do it via software. I know some owners who received upgraded packs or paid to unlock their capacity got their IC readings corrected remotely by Tesla.

Radar.

Not for my model car.

Were the old S70's 400VDC or 350VDC packs? The label posted by @tjv85 says 350VDC, the first I've seen. I'm thinking the installed pack has S100 cells in it and even though it comes with 70kWh capacity, range-wise it is close to the range of the old pack, hence Tesla's reasoning for installing...

This can not be correct for MODEL S 2012–2020: There are older cars with the locked batteries (like mine). I can't even charge to true 100%. The manual is wrong.

Seems definitely to be the case as it has been reported over and over.

So, you have excluded yourself to benefit from a possible substantial compensation at the conclusion of the class action?

What mechanism did you use to "reject" to participate in a pending class action lawsuit?

Good deal 👍

@Danoush100 - Any reason you leaving out your previous "at fault accident" accident" mentioned in your July 6, 2022 post in the other thread which @jjrandorin has referenced?

Print Tesla's warranty document: https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/downloads/tesla-new-vehicle-limited-warranty-en-us.pdf Page 6: "Tesla will ensure that the energy capacity of the replacement Battery is at least equal to that of the original Battery before the failure occurred while...

What is the breakdown of the total cost?

You mean the standby power supply built in the newer packs serving the MCU2?

You mean a battery with these solder joints? No, thanks.

For your 2017, yes or maybe. But good luck with DIY for 2015 or earlier.

Absolutely. And the Tesla prices for having their mobile service come to your door steps to change it for about $250, including the labor and taxes, are highly inexpensive.

This is not explicitly stated on any of Tesla warranty documents. But, the 12v is expected to last ~4 years; and if that happens not to be the case the SC might goodwill it (as it was the case for my car). The 12v is a wear and tear item, like tires.

That's for the high voltage battery pack, not for the 12v battery. Big difference ;)

Ah, OK. Did not see it in your previous posts.

I believe your issue is different from what the OP is going through, even though the symptoms seem to be similar. Since your car is much older, 1) search for pumpgate, and 2) you might have a weak 12v battery as well.

That explanation by Tesla SC does not make sense in your scenario. Did they update your software to 2023.12.1 while the car was in their possession?

Original or modified?

You can use SMT to read your cell voltage at 100% charge. if it's under 4.2v then you are software (voltage) locked.

The battery pack price and type quoted in @Bob Atkins invoice is the same as what was quoted in this thread: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/out-of-warranty-2013-ms-85-w-bms_u029-should-i-save-510-and-go-straight-to-a-3rd-party-sc.281441/ See my comment: I would say the $18k is for a...

Why is that?

My car is older than yours but has been on 2023.6.11 for a week now. No change in vampire drain.

The Large RDU's have issues discussed in multiple threads. Search for the posts contributed by @ajbessinger on this topic. FYI, my Large RDU was replaced at 37k miles.

A new OTA can expose an issue which already has existed with your battery.

Cons: The vampire drain cost if my car is parked and left unused for a year is about $100. Pros: I'm getting a lot of improvement with MCU2 (mentioned in numerous threads).

I'm showing about 2.5% vampire drain for every 24 hours , plugged or unplugged, the car parked in the garage, no accessory attached, no 3rd party app used, and even with a brand new 12v battery installed recently. The drain has been following a pretty consistent pattern after I upgraded to MCU2...

Ah, OK. If you mean it increases your vampire drain I agree since I've been experiencing it too. But it does not "mess up" the battery itself as you previously hypothesized.

You must be the first to claim that upgrading to MCU2 messes up the battery. I've never heard or read any post saying that.

How does upgrading to MCU2 messes up with the battery?

Are you even allowed to install a NEMA 14-50 in the other complex you are moving to which has a garage? If yes, the cost vastly differs based on your geography and the installation complexity. Can range from a couple of hundreds to thousands of $.

And, those adapters, like the Amazon one you link, are dumb "adapter" plugs, like plumbing fittings. They are not voltage/amps converters.

Not sure why the 5-20 is even being discussed by the OP. The OP says:

Not sure I understand why you need that Amazon adapter! If your Tesla Mobile Connector has no NEMA 5-15 adapter plug, why not just buy one from Tesla?

Great that the HV battery was able to charge at all. Keeping it plugged in all the time is the way to go. I think your vampire drain for two months starved your HV battery to the point that it stopped recharging your 12v.

How many miles was left off your HV battery capacity once you access the car? Is the car charging at all?

Was it left plugged in?

Negative. Also no accessories of any kind attached to any port. MCU1: 1% MCU2: 2.5% For each 24 hours unattended, Pluged or unplugged. Installing a brand new 12V few weeks ago has not made any noticeable difference. Basically, I've a new 90kWh/350V pack, a new 12V and new MCU2 with more...

My car info is per my signature, and you notice I've an upgraded MCU1 ==> MCU2. How does your description apply to my situation? One thing I noticed immediately after my MCU upgrade was the MCU/IC coming up with no delay when I unlock the car after being parked for 24 hours undisturbed. The...

But it gets its power from somewhere. If that source is the HV pack, what then is gained here as it relates to the 12v charging?

How does this "mini DC to DC converter" work? What's the benefit of it? Where is it located?

For Tesla charging: Does it work if the NEMA 10-30 neutral prong is connected to the NEMA 14-50 neutral prong and the NEMA 14-50 ground is left unconnected? Is it safe?

Yes, that's the correct connection for Tesla charging. My point was we do not know what these Non-Tesla adapters are wired for and if they are wired correctly for Tesla charging. In fact if the adapter we are discussing is the one I linked above, it says it's for generators, with a picture of a...

For the adapter used in this example, on the 14-50 side, what's connected to ground? what's connected to the neutral?

I would not use any Non-Tesla adapters unless I know they are internally wired correctly for Tesla charging.

This one?

@ericl - Any feedback on the installed battery? Range? Supercharging speed? A picture of the battery pack sticker (visible from behind the front passenger side tire)?