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Raleigh is doing the same. Seems to me like they are starting at 10 a.m. PDT.

Excellent news!

Ouch. I guess could have been worse if the FWDs were open. I wonder if the car will let you drive with them open.

I've been wondering where this one would end up. As far as I can tell Wake County, City of Raleigh, and Town of Cary don't have online permit search capabilities unless you know the permit number, so hard to find out that way. Crossroads area is certainly a possibility and getting in and out...

Uh oh. The JCR Underground Facebook page no longer has the photos of the construction. I wonder if they got in trouble for posting them. Anyway, anyone able to pass by in the next couple of days? I bet this is very close to being done.

I think they need to do more than just fix the whole A/B thing. When you show up to a site and every charger (not slot) is being used and you need to pick which "B" slot to take, it would be immensely helpful to know what the SOC is for the cars that are currently charging so you know which spot...

I knew FlasherZ would chime in, thanks! :-) It looked like #4 to me from the pictures as well, but I was giving the benefit of the doubt to the electrician. I think best course of action is to get some conduit with some #3 (or #2) in there.

#3 should be fine, however the concern I have is that the wire from the disconnect to the HPWC is not in conduit. I'm not familiar enough with what that wire is, but it might not be rated for 100 Amps. I know NM-B would not be rated for 100 Amps, but this looks like something else. Are there any...

Very likely. Yes, it's supposed to be there. Don't mess with it :-)

The last part is incorrect. 0 is a very, very low number. 0 or very close to 0 means the fuse is good. A very high (infinite) number = blown.

Your HPWC fuse is the new type, so that's not likely the issue. The old ones were a double fuse and the new ones are a larger single one. You can see the difference here: New HPWC is out (soon?) - Page 4 Hopefully FlasherZ will chime in here, but I'm pretty sure those fuses should be 100A...

If you don't feel comfortable with the power on, then don't do it. That said, it's pretty safe if you do it correctly. If you want to go down this route just to test the fuses, once you've pulled power, you'll have to pull out those fuses and test each one with the multimeter. There should be...

If you do get one, this is something you can easily check yourself. Most meters will have a COM or Ground input to which the black cable connects and one or more connections for the Red wire. You'll want to make sure this is connected to the one marked V or Volts, not any of the ones that might...

Do you have a multimeter to check if there is power coming in or not? Hard to know where the problem is without one. Could be a bad breaker, blown fuse, or bad HPWC. Would be easy to pinpoint where the problem is with a meter.

Thanks for organizing this, Zeb!

There is some discussion about this in this thread: Let the hacking begin... (Model S parts on the bench) - Page 102

Looks like they may be adding additional lighting to this area as well as evidenced by those two large forming tubes.

Thanks for the scouting trip! Looks like the transformer and the meter are already installed. Did you happen to look at the meter to see if it's powered up? Looks like they'll probably have the stalls done by today and then just need to paint the lines. This could be done as early as next weekend.

Once they get started, it usually takes a matter of weeks. Sometimes there are delays after it's done waiting for the utility to install the transformer or get an inspection done (The Plantation, FL site is a classic example of this where it was done for months before the transformer was...

Maybe they can't improve the 0 - 30 times much more, but 30 - 100 has plenty of room to grow without being traction limited.

Now for the speculation... what will the capacity of the P100D *really* be? 93kWh? 95kWh?

Jason Hughes on Twitter:

I hadn't noticed until now that the photo on the JCR Underground Facebook page was posted on Feb 23rd which is over a week ago. I wouldn't be surprised if this site is looking like it's close to completion by now.

Which is exactly the address I proposed to Tesla when I made the suggestion (first message of this thread). Pretty cool that they actually listened (even if it took two years). :-) - - - Updated - - - Barring any complications, this will definitely be done by summer.

Yes, I can vouch for the fact that when Cottonwood says there is something going on with a new Supercharger, he is usually correct. Thanks for sharing. Now we just need someone to drive around and see what's going on.

And my bet is that the B-Pillar is damaged as well.

I no longer use mine ever since they added the ability to pop the door with the key fob, so if anyone needs one, I'll be happy to send mine off to a new home.

Thanks for the update. Forgot about the snow storm that came through that week. I agree that it doesn't make any sense to really do anything about it since it almost never snows around here. Maybe a little more towards your side of the state, but certainly nothing that would make financial sense...

wk, now that winter is coming to an end, it would be great to have a report on how well the system fared and how many times you had to go back on-grid. BTW - what happened on January 22? Looks like no production at all that day.

Had :-(. The state legislature did not renew the credit so there was a mad scramble at the end of the year to get solar installed. If the goal of the incentive was to promote solar in the state, it clearly worked. Too bad it didn't get extended.

This is great news because it means your modules are not bricked. In fact, they seem to be at a very nice SoC. Just need to get yourself 4 new modules.

100% agree with TexasEV. As an early adopter, I would never have bought my Model S if the Raleigh Service center wasn't open and if there wasn't already a plan to have the superchargers I needed in place within a year of me buying. Given the number of times I've had to visit the service center...

Ideal range was quoted at 160 miles. That means rated range was probably around 140 miles, although I've seen people comment seeing up to 147 miles of rated range on a 40.

There are two things I worry about that could prevent you from achieving your goal: 1. Lots of wiring harnesses are going to need replacing. Not sure if you're prepared to take this on, but it's doable with a donor car. 2. Mismatched firmware between components. This is what I worry about the...

Doesn't sound good. That means the cell voltages are 2.34V on average. I thought anything below 2.5V is really bad for the cells. You might still be able to get some usable capacity out of it though.

It's hard to tell from the picture. Does the pack look like it's dented or does it look like it's being pushed out from the middle? From here it looks like it's actually popped out from the middle above the S in Tesla. Looks almost like when a laptop battery goes bad and bulges out, usually...

Not sure if you noticed they are located in Australia. The web page looks very amateurish. Doubt Tesla is focused on the Australia market right now anyway.

Probably a good idea to start the process whenever you place your order. There is a good FAQ that FlasherZ maintains here: FAQ: Home Tesla charging infrastructure QA Depending on what your house wiring looks like and whether or not you want to be able to charge both Teslas at the same time...

That's okay. wk can reprogram it :-)

Haha - wish I could say I did that intentionally. :-)

I'm betting that for the right amount Tesla will change it for you, but it probably won't be cheap. Have you asked?

Or wait until a Hydrogen tank explodes on a Murai.

The real question now is how much capacity does a 90 pack really have?

If you have the sub, you have the Tesla premium system (which includes XM, more speakers, and Dolby surround). That said, to your question there is work by Light Harmonic to develop a Tesla-specific replacement for the speakers and the premium audio amp: Premium Audio for Tesla Model S by...

This is not a change. The UMC kit with the car has always and continues to come with the J1772 adapter. The extra kit you can buy from the Tesla online store has never come with the J1772 adapter. There is no price increase.

Awesome, but looks like the Model S launched before the light turned green.

What are the chances of obtaining the male and female versions of the connector to build a tap cable that can be put in without having to physically tap any of the wires?

Just out of sheer curiosity, now that you know where the water line is, can you measure how high it was from some point of reference? I'd ask you to measure from the ground, but with the suspension shot, that won't be a useful measurement. Maybe how far from the bottom surface of the battery?

The UMC has always only come with those two connectors. All others have been optional purchases from the Tesla online store. Which other ones you might need depends on where you might need to charge. I have nearly all of them just in case. The ones that I've used numerous times are the 10-30 and...

That would be great! Thanks for all the work you guys are putting into this.