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Yikes. My assumption was that it's already been taking apart, at least that's what the Service Advisor sounded like. I'd have been very wary of driving it, since it started showing a brake malfunction warning right after the accident.

Initial estimates just came in at 15k from Tesla Collision, so doubt it'll get totaled. Hopefully they fix it as new, and I'll file a diminished value claim with insurance as well.

GEICO provides only up to 30 days, so if it goes over 30 days, we may have to pay out of pocket since the other driver is uninsured (at least from what we're being told). Hoping it doesn't get to that.

I have Uninsured Motorist/Property Damage coverage, so my insurance will pay for it and go after the driver via subrogation. Different insurance companies have different approaches to this, but given how high the cost to repair/replace is, I guess my insurance company will end up suing him. It...

Lol. Needed that laugh.

So looks like the guy that rear-ended us is actually uninsured. Sigh!

Good, thankfully. Thanks for asking. Just general whiplash, but hoping that goes away soon.

My theory is that when I slowed rather suddenly from the guy in front of me slowing, she leaned forward a bit, and then the impact from being rear-ended propelled her. It happened so fast that we really can't tell if she hit her head on the dash or the corner of the screen. Not sure if it's...

Yup. I'm actually having it sent to an actual Tesla Collision Center, and not one of the authorized third-party shops. I wonder if I should have dealt with the at-fault party's insurance directly vs my insurance.

GEICO adjuster came out to take a look at the car and estimates $4,700 to fix. Lol Car is being towed to the Tesla Repair Center today.

I'll keep the group posted once I have it sorted out with insurance. GEICO (my insurance) is reaching out to insurance of the at-fault party.

Hit by a lifted F-150. Bumper damage on their car but definitely not as bad as ours.

She was wearing her seatbelt. Mine locked when we were hit, but hers did not. Emotionally attached to my MY, but at this point I almost hope it's totaled.

We got rear-ended a few miles from home. I think I’m ok, but my wife came off a little worse. She bumped her head on the dash so we’re having her checked out. Not sure if this is write-off territory, but hoping for a quick resolution whatever route insurance company decides.

Yes, we have natural gas. One of the reasons I really want to go solar is how cool it is, but my wife just isn’t buying the upfront cost for our use case. Break even period is just too long.

Thanks all. With the cheap electricity rates in Texas, it probably makes more sense for us to get a 23 kW standby generator for any true emergencies. It should run us a little over 14k installed.

If we go with this, I’ll suck it up and pay upfront without financing. I just hate the idea of financing a “utility”

Ideally, I’d love to go green, have cool technology and protect from Houston blackouts during hurricane season without paying more than I pay currently, over a period of time, of course. I just switched to Tesla Electric and I believe my current rate is $0.135 per kWh. I doubt I’d get true...

Created a thread but figured I'd ask here too since we're in Houston. We recently moved into our new home and were considering going solar with powerwalls, but would love some input from the experts on here :) Current situation: 2 story, 3800 sqft 2 AC units Heat is natural gas Stove is...

We recently moved into our new home and were considering going solar with powerwalls, but would love some input from the experts on here :) Current situation: 2 story, 3800 sqft in Houston 2 AC units Heat is natural gas Stove is natural gas Recently married so historical energy usage may...

Be prepared for the "this is within spec" answer. At delivery, I noticed my passenger headlight was misaligned and pointed out that it needed to be fixed or I'd refuse delivery. Delivery rep conned me into taking delivery and telling me all I needed to do was create a service request and someone...

I'll move and test out tonight. After getting soaked in rain last night getting into my subdivision, I am determined to get my EZ tag working again.

Placed as the manual suggested in my MY but does not read properly in my subdivision that uses EZ tags to open gates.

Any update on this on your Model Y? My subdivision programs EZ tags to open our gates, and tag doesn't work when placed where Tesla recommends. Not sure where exactly you're referring to as "center roof beam".

Picked up my 2023 Austin build MY 2 weeks ago. Noise coming from the front left windshield area and front headlight misaligned. I pointed out the misaligned headlight during delivery and the delivery rep acknowledged it was out of alignment, and recommended I put in a service request right away...

Just swapped out my X5 for a MY. The 2023 MY is noticeably stiffer, but not in a bad way. It just feels sportier, but keep in mind the MY23 has an updated suspension.

I ended up getting mine from BestBuy, and canceling my order from Tesla. My mobile connector took a while to arrive, and the fact that they ship via UPS Ground doesn't help, as it is generally slower than FedEx.

All resolved. #6 MC cable installed today. My electrician saw this thread too after going to do some research of his own :)

Yeah. It's probably the cheaper route to go down at this point. I'll just get an inspector to take a look and pull permit. Fingers crossed.

He has offered to swap it out for 6/2 MC. A refund doesn't seem to be likely at this point, since he is saying he will make the recommended changes. So I have a bit of a dilemma here. Do I let him install the 6/2 MC, then call an independent electrician to inspect, or do I suck it up and just...

The white wire is capped off inside the box, but I'm going to assume it was connected to the neutral bar in the breaker box.

I wouldn't trust this guy with MC then. I'll just ask for Romex, count my losses and move on. I'm just glad I caught it before this turned into a bigger issue down the road.

Exactly what I asked him, and he was rambling about "all the connectors I have installed required neutral". "This looks different from what I've installed". After probing, I realized he's only done outlets for the mobile connectors.

Is there any benefit of Romex over MC? Guessing with the Romex, you just pay for the extra connector. Unfortunately, I don't think I've ever seen a Romex 4/2. These are my options, but the Romex #4 is more than double the price of the #6 MC Elliott Electric Supply - Lower Cost, Quality...

Just through the drywall and some blue junction box behind the wall connector, then down the other side of the wall into the main breaker box. I've gone back to using the mobile connector for now until this is resolved.

I think it’s time to fire him and call my county inspector. I hate to because he came recommended from a friend who has a personal relationship with him, and I don’t want to be that guy, but whatever. I pointed out to him that he either needs to use #4 Romex or #6 MC, and provided him this link...

It's currently in the wall.

Just in case y'all are interested in an update - I spent 15 minutes on the phone with the electrician, all while he insisted he was correct; super frustrating. I told him we weren't debating this and he has two choices - swap the cable for a #4 Romex, or #6 MC. He's supposed to call back...

Makes sense. I'm a little triggered and jumpy given the fact that he tried to convince me that it was ok, but I'll give him the chance to rectify. My preference would be to go for #4 NM-B, since the boss says she doesn't want any surface conduits in the garage.

Ugh. Yeah, I'm worried about that now. I'd hate to be out $750. Either I ask him to pull a permit, or count my losses and just go with one of Tesla's recommended electricians and be out $750.

Glad to hear that I was right. I've shut off the breaker for now, and will wait for him to come fix.

I am by no means an electrician but a licensed electrician just installed my Wall Connector using Romex 8/3 and a 60A breaker for a 40ft run. I believe a 60A breaker should use at least Romex 6/3. I realized this after he had left, and just called him back to come rectify. He tried to convince...