Search results

I have Version B and like I mentioned before, even with a polarity switch it sounds like hot garbage. I opened it up and it is a TINY amp which makes sense since the power wires to connect it look like they're 16 gauge. This looks like the product they copied for Version B: PWE-S8 | Compact 8"...

No need to apologize. You are willing to spend a lot more on the sound than I am and it will show. Otherwise, I wouldn't have went the Hansshow route. I used to have two 12" subs in my car as a silly teenager so I get the desire for more bass. I think the Rockford solution will be okay, not...

I was having issues with quiet door woofers on Version B and I tried messing with the polarity but gave up until I get a better tool than an app. Then I found this and used your DSP settings which really toned down the overpowering highs and mids to the point where the door subs were much better...

Thanks, I'll give it a try as the app seems like a crapshoot. I want my door woofers back. Once I resolve that I will probably turf the terrible Version B sub and go with the Rockford one mentioned in this thread. It's clear that it has much more power.

Did you find that tester worked well? I tried an app but it gave inconsistent results. If that works well, I'll probably just pull the DSP out of underneath the console and swap the wires on the harness itself instead of tearing everything apart. It's also easier to check if the change worked.

No app, I'll check one out, thanks! But I do have experience installing car stereos and the polarity was wrong on the sub for sure, the channels were reversed for both the shelf speaker connection and the rear doors, separately. That was a pain. They suggested cutting the wires and swapping them...

Do you offer it separately? What are its specs? power consumption, etc. I already spent money on the B-version subwoofer with low expectations/requirements and it is terrible plus my door woofers have half the bass they used to and I still haven't heard back about a solution for that. After all...

Thanks, they advised me on that during my multi-hour session of hunting reversed polarities and stereo balance between the rear doors and shelf. It's still comically weak and the door woofers suck compared to before. Mids and highs are great but the low is terrible.

I have the version B woofer and it is quite disappointing. I figured it would be after seeing how small the power wires are for it. How does the OEM style 'premium' woofer sound? I've definitely lost some bass in the door woofers and the little weak version B sub doesn't overcome what bass used...

You don't even need to cut the wires, you can pull them out of the connectors. Some require you to push down on an internal pin, like the grey and white one's you cut. There's a video somewhere in this thread if needed. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/attachments/20201202_090921-jpg.613518/

Have you tried flipping the purple wires? I used a small drill to push the connectors out and reinserted them in the opposite hole. It was a noticeable improvement. It's not like dual 12" subs of the high school years but it sounds balanced.

Thank you kiNGng3, I am definitely noticing almost no subwoofer sound and the rear shelf and rear door speakers are reversed. The rear door speakers started working once I switched to DC from ACC, thanks! So close to completion now and it's quite the difference already.

I ordered version B during the Black Friday sale and received it a couple of days ago. I have been installing Version B this evening and it was going great. I hooked up the front four speakers and then got the rears hooked up as well. Then I noticed the rears are flipped so I will need to fix...