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I still get CHG_f018 and CHG_f076 regularly when charging at home (I just checked and they're in the notification history from when I got home earlier this evening). I've given up on worrying about it at this point since it's been over two years and I've never been unable to charge.

I had a similar experience with the Merritt Island service center in that they have 208V chargers and couldn't replicate my issue. They eventually sent out mobile service with a similar MS to mine and he saw the errors on my car but none when we plugged in his MS, at that's when they decided to...

>Isolation errors can come from any high voltage component - coolant heater, cabin PTC heater (non heat pump), air conditioning compressor, drive unit, the battery pack or the HV wiring. Exactly. My theory is that there's a low level isolation issue that's not enough to trigger a specific fault...

My coolant heater went out in December and I noticed that I stopped getting the errors after it was replaced. I haven't been checking on it as it never really did cause issues with my ability to charge, so I can't say that fixed it for sure. However, you might consider asking the SC to perform a...

@airborne spoon - did you ever get the AP issue resolved?

For sale is a windshield from a 2016 Model S with AP1, part number 1061565-01-D. The windshield had a scratch on the driver's side that was repaired, and has a slight visual distortion. There are a 2-3 small chips, but otherwise in excellent condition. The windshield is located in Palm Bay...

I wouldn't expect Safelite to do so as they're in the business of selling new windshields. I have no idea who would install one, but I've seen other used windshields sell on this forum, so I would assume it's possible.

For sale is a windshield from a 2016 Model S with AP1, part number 1061565-01-D. The windshield had a scratch on the driver's side that was repaired, and has a slight visual distortion. There are a 2-3 small chips, but otherwise in excellent condition. The windshield is located in Palm Bay...

Nope. The mobile technician came out with a Model S, and it charged without issue, so the service center replaced the onboard charger. However, it still continues to have the issue. I got ahold of someone in charging support at Tesla who said he wanted to help me, but then ghosted me and won't...

Yes. That's when we discovered that they have 208V and not 240V. The power company came out last week and installed a monitoring device between the meter and the house. I spoke with one of their engineers this morning, and he couldn't find anything wrong. He did notice a device turning on every...

Florida Power and Light did come out, but they only performed a basic check of the power coming into the house and didn't find anything. I took it back to the SC, and they looked at it some more, but still couldn't find and issues. I ended up installing a gen 3 wall connector since it seemed...

Based on this, I decided to call the power company to see if they would come out and look at the power coming into the house. Apparently, the first step is for them to come out and perform a basic check to ensure that the voltage at the meter is correct. If so, turn they'll escalate it to...

I decided to try a test to see if anything in the house is generating interference, so I turned off all of the breakers except for the 175A main breaker and the 50A breaker that feeds the 14-50 outlet. Unfortunately, the car still threw the same error, so that definitely rules out anything on...

It's entirely possible that they only have 120V and 208V. I'm assuming they also have 240V because the tech told me that the row of HPWCs outside are 240V. He could have been incorrect, or perhaps they have a dedicated service for them. This issue occurs at my house. I've also confirmed it at...

That's certainly not my intention. I'm just frustrated. If we're going to throw around credentials, I'm a Software Engineer in the aerospace industry with over 15 years of experience in development and deployment of complex avionics and weapon control systems. Sure, I'm not an EE, but I know a...

This issue occurs when the car starts pulling 1-2A. I assume it "tests the water" before it starts ramping up the current draw, which is when it generates the errors. Sometimes it takes two or three attempts before it finally starts ramping up. This is why the fact that the two errors indicate...

Mine stays in that same range when the solar panels on the house aren't operating. When the solar panels are operating, it usually starts at 247V and then drops to 244. I mostly charge at night, so the panels shouldn't be a contributing factor. I did flip the disconnect on them to be sure, and...

Well, I learned something today regarding delta and wye transformers. I still think the SC needs to have the ability to plug in a UMC to a 240V outlet as only a very small percentage of Tesla owners are likely to charge using 208V. I wish there was an easy way for me to lower the voltage at...

How can the building have standard 120V outlets if it doesn't have split phase coming in? Furthermore, based on the image below, 208V can only be achieved by having one full phase and a split phase. Unless I'm mistaken, I don't see how it's possible to have 120V and 208V, but not 240V. And...

Actually, 240V is standard single phase power running into any residence/building. To get 208V, you have to have three phase running into the building. The SC does have a row of HPWCs that are connected to 240. The 208V outlets are all in the shop, which is where the previous dealer probably had...

Do you know if this is rolling out to MCU1/AP1 vehicles?

The Tesla certified electrician came by yesterday after I got home from the service center. He tightened down a few connections and re-terminated the 14-50 outlet, but the car still threw the errors after he was done. He agreed that it's the car. I've requested that the service center modify...

Took the car to the SC this morning to try and replicate the issue using their 14-50 plug. Turns out they have it wired at 208V instead of 240V, so they can't replicate the issue. They tried to argue that the voltage doesn't matter and it's only the amperage, which I disagree with because the...

I reached out to Tesla customer service about the two errors, and here's what they said: It seems to me that there are only two reasons why the current could go over the limit: 1. The voltage is dropping from the inrush current 2. The car is trying to pull too much power during the charging...

It's my understanding that the UMC does not use the neutral in the 14-50 plug. If that's true, then I would expect that any neutral/ground bonding issues wouldn't be noticed by the UMC. However, if there was an induced voltage on the ground from something, then I suppose that could be an issue...

This morning, I went over to someone's house who has a HPWC, and did not get any errors when charging. This afternoon, a neighbor of mine came over to my house with his 2017 P100D, and he got the same charging errors when we plugged into his car. I received the Bryant 9450fr, so I temporarily...

I went over to my friend's house who also has a 50A service to see if I could replicate the problem there, which I was able to do twice. As such, I really don't think it's my house wiring. The SC has some wall connectors outside, so I may just see if I can replicate the issue right in front of...

I had a similar issue a few weeks ago where the triangle would stay on in the cluster, but the dashed lines would toggle on and off. I'm guessing that it was right on the edge of the temperature limit, so it was in a bit of a weird state. Seems to me that the Tesla software engineers need to...

After doing some more research, I'm not sure that I have. I installed a Leviton 14-50 receptacle from Home Depot and a non-GFCI 50A breaker. I've ordered a Bryant 9450fr and a GCFI 50A breaker as I think that's what I should have done in the first place. Unfortunately, I installed the Leviton...

I plan on going over the wiring again to double check, but I would think an issue like this would result in charging failures when pulling the full 32/40A. I had a retired electrician help me with the install. He terminated the 14-50 and I terminated the breaker. It's easy enough to take a look...

Looks like the image didn't post properly...

I have a 2016 MS 75D that I purchased used from Tesla this past December. As can be seen in the attached image, I've been frequently getting CHG_f018 and CHG_f076 alerts. I installed a NEMA 14-50 receptacle in the garage with about 40' of 6AWG romex and a 50 amp breaker. I had two gen 1 UMCs...

I have a 2016 MS 75D with MCU1 and AP1. I'm still on 2020.48.12.1 and showing no updates. Are the recent updates still rolling out, or should I expect to have received the update by now?

Dropped my MS off there today. It's still very much under construction. No bathrooms, just a portable toilet. It's basically not much more than a service drive, offices for the advisors, and a very dirty waiting area. I'm glad I didn't have to drive to Orlando, but wow.

I purchased a 2016 facelift/AP1 75D through Tesla on 12/6/20. I had requested a callback a few days prior, and the representative was very helpful. However, after the purchase, it was almost a week before I heard anything back. I had to have it shipped from Maryland to Orlando. The process for...

I just received an IRO dashcam for my AP1 Model S. I was able to get it installed without issue, but I've been having issues with the app. The only one I can get to work is Youmera, but it doesn't appear to have any way of changing the settings for the camera. For example, the camera talks to me...